charging system dead

Like I said, N.O.S. originals come up on eBay all the time. Here's a '70-'79 inner. If I didn't have 2 spares already, I'd probably be buying these .....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-YAM...f7d36bbad:g:-pgAAOSwstJZUSFY&vxp=mtr#shpCntId

The guy ships additional items free so buy them both and they'd only be a little over $8 each. I didn't see any outers listed, which is odd. They are usually more plentiful because the '70-'79 outer is the same as both of the '80-on brushes. With an '80-on system, you can swap the brushes to equalize the wear, which is nice. Can't do that on the '70-'79 system.
 
The only thing I'm prepping up on for the zombie apocalypse is extra shotgun shells.
 
1 ea. Coupler Set with Terminals - 6 space
1 ea. Gasket - LH case cover (Alternator)
1 ea. 12mm. Nut & Washer - alternator rotor
1 ea. Alternator Brush Holder 1970-79
1 ea. Brush Holder Guard with Mount Screws
1 ea. Brake Caliper Rebuild Kit - Fr & R 77-84
1 ea. Speed Bleeder Screw - M8 x1.25 77-84
1 ea. Caliper Mount Bolts - (Pk/2) 77-84
1 ea. Puller - Alternator Rotor
1 ea. Tachometer Cable (Black) Fits: 74-84
1 ea. Alternator Brush Set (2 ) Fits: 70-79
___________________________________________
I bought the above from xs650direct yesterday. And they were delivered this morning!
 
Yup that's been my experience with them too. I don't know how the heck they respond so quickly.

Also, to respond to your query about XSDirect cables, my bike was such a mess that I simply bought a new throttle, clutch, tach and speedo cable from them and all are still working fine 18 months and about 3200 mikes (over 5000 km) later. Not everything et sell is good (their clutch holding tool is a dud - as I found out yesterday) - but a lot of it is just fine.

BTW - I bought a ton of stuff from XSDirect BEFORE I was active on this forum and learned about NOS OEM parts suppliers such as www.boats.net and other eBay vendors.

Don't hesitate to ask for advice on parts. Everyone is happy to chime in.
 
Use an impact on the retaining nut or put the bike on the center stand, put it in 5th, and hold down the rear brake.


As Classic said, hold the brake to get the nut loose. You need the nut off. On guy stripped the bolt on the puller because he left the nut on.
When you use the puller don't try to force the rotor off with just the puller. Snug the puller up tight then hit the end of the bolt with a hammer. This pops the rotor right off.
Leo

so i have pulled the nut off. and the rotor puller on it, but how does it come off? i quoted what Leo said in another thread but banging the rotor does not loosen it. and which way would the rotor come out? does it pop out or screw off?
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    195.3 KB · Views: 201
Take the center bolt out of the puller and screw the puller on to the rotor by hand as tight as it will go. Hand tight is all it needs to be. Screw the center bolt back into the puller. Use a wrench and basically tighten it until it stops. Then take a hammer and tap on the end of the puller bolt a couple times. Try to tighten the bolt some more. Alternate between tapping on and tightening the bolt. The rotor will pop off eventually, if it didn't from the initial tightening and 1st tapping. If you have a dead blow hammer, use that for tapping on the puller bolt. It works really well for this. DO NOT POUND ON THE ROTOR.
 
Slather the best moly grease you own in the centerbolt threads before cranking down on it. For this kind of work light taps with a BIG hammer beat wacking at it with a little hammer.
 
You can put an adjustable wrench on the two flats on the outer part while you turn the bolt with a socket. I don't remember having to hit it. When you put it back on rub some grease on the shaft there.
 
3 whacks and it came off easily!

my gf and i watched a video on youtube of an australian guy whack the shiet out of the rotor to get it off, and we were thinking this guy is nuts. i would have never believed hammering it was the way to get it off.

i will send the rotor off to custom rewind today
 
Got the brushes measured from the tips to where the spring begins, 8mm and 9mm. i will replace them with new ones from mikes.

custom rewind simply replacing my rotor with one of theirs. 3 points style.
 
I got my rotor from custom rewind. replaced it with new brushes from mikes-canada. New battery because the old one would not charge over 11.9 ... then right before firing it up I said let me change the tach cable because the needle was lazy/dead. New cable from mikes has two female connectors which does not attach into the female connector below. see attachment. Is their cable description not accurate that it fits my 78 special? their customer service is slow to answer and no phone number to call.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3380.JPG
    IMG_3380.JPG
    133 KB · Views: 201
The cable in your pic unscrews from the solid part with the little red o-ring on it. There should be a threaded sleeve left behind screwed into the top of the solid part. Your new cable will thread onto that. You should leave that solid part mounted in the case and just take the cable off it. That holds it from spinning while you take the cable on and off.
 
Mikes canada said the tach cable I bought is no good for the 78 special. And they dont have the cable I need.

I guess when they state on their website Fits XS650B-K (75-84) it does not include special models. bummer

Found a tach drive on fleabay to replace the one I destroyed. :(
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3392.PNG
    IMG_3392.PNG
    219 KB · Views: 215
That cable should fit. Yamaha lists only one for the '74-'83 models, Special or Standard makes no difference. You think companies that specialize in parts for a certain bike would know something about it. That doesn't seem to be the case with these Bozos, lol.
 
Back
Top