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Engine mount ground
- Thread starter sbaugz
- Start date
I took some pics of a 77 the other day before I removed the top mounts.
You can see the other end under the LH coil mount bolt.
You can see the other end under the LH coil mount bolt.
OK that second pic is misleading, here's both sides of an 81
notice that you can see the thread end of the screw that holds the small end of that wire.
On the 77 it is the screw that holds the condenser. The ground on the 77's coil mount goes into the main harness.
It looks like your small end is still screwed in place. The wire is routed the same on all years (I checked the 70 too), the large end goes on the RH bottom front mount bolt, sandwiched between the engine and the mount.
wire strap routing engine mount ground grounds
notice that you can see the thread end of the screw that holds the small end of that wire.
On the 77 it is the screw that holds the condenser. The ground on the 77's coil mount goes into the main harness.
It looks like your small end is still screwed in place. The wire is routed the same on all years (I checked the 70 too), the large end goes on the RH bottom front mount bolt, sandwiched between the engine and the mount.
wire strap routing engine mount ground grounds
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Not much, the wire didn't so much connect left to right as upper to lower. On the points models the wanted to be sure the ground path for the condensers was good, thus the wire ran from the condenser mount to an engine bolt. A very direct route. Without the ground path had extra connections, The top engine mount is made from four pieces on each side with a possible weak connectiond between each piece. The wire bypassed all these.
Even after they swapped to the TCI they didn't delete the wire.
On my bikes I like to be sure that the engine mounts all have clean metal to metal contact points between the frame engine and all the pieces of the mounts.
The mounts are how the engine ground to the frame. Poor grounds there deter starter function. When you push the start button full battery power is applied to the starter. The starter grounds to the engine, with bad grounds from engine to frame the battery can't supply full power.
I even have a ground cable straight froma starter mount bolt to battery negitive. Bypassing the engine to frame grounds.
Leo
Even after they swapped to the TCI they didn't delete the wire.
On my bikes I like to be sure that the engine mounts all have clean metal to metal contact points between the frame engine and all the pieces of the mounts.
The mounts are how the engine ground to the frame. Poor grounds there deter starter function. When you push the start button full battery power is applied to the starter. The starter grounds to the engine, with bad grounds from engine to frame the battery can't supply full power.
I even have a ground cable straight froma starter mount bolt to battery negitive. Bypassing the engine to frame grounds.
Leo
Street Tracker
Dirt Track Mentality
Here is what mine looked like on my 82. I don't plan on running either I have electric start and will run a cable like mentioned above.
Street Tracker, you say "I don't plan on running either" Do you mean you are not going to run a top engine mount?
I wouldn't reccomend doing that. This can lead to excess vibration, more flex in the frame at the steering head, as well as excess strain on the rest of the mounts from engine torque. This can break the engine case around where the rear mount bolts to the engine.
Leo
I wouldn't reccomend doing that. This can lead to excess vibration, more flex in the frame at the steering head, as well as excess strain on the rest of the mounts from engine torque. This can break the engine case around where the rear mount bolts to the engine.
Leo
Street Tracker
Dirt Track Mentality
XSLeo, I will be running the top mount, I just will assure grounds in other means.
xschop
XS650 Enthusiast
Hey xs Leo
Speaking of putting undue stress on the other motor mounts...I have a 72 and while the bike was on the lift I realized the rear motor bolt was gone...and the motor bolt under the frame has a bolt that I can manually turn but the only thing that stops it from coming out is the lock nut...I'm assuming it should not he this way....and what type of bolt should I get to replace that rear missing motor bolt? I'd appreciate the help
Speaking of putting undue stress on the other motor mounts...I have a 72 and while the bike was on the lift I realized the rear motor bolt was gone...and the motor bolt under the frame has a bolt that I can manually turn but the only thing that stops it from coming out is the lock nut...I'm assuming it should not he this way....and what type of bolt should I get to replace that rear missing motor bolt? I'd appreciate the help
Xschop, you may want to have a closer look at your bottom/rear motor mount.
Have a look in here for more info:
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34429
Have a look in here for more info:
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34429
xschop
XS650 Enthusiast
That thread definitely helped thanks and Yeah I think I'm definitely gonna try and tighten up the bottom motor bolt but what type of bolt size and thickness should I get or can I just get any bolt and nut from my bucket of bolts? I just don't want any trouble down the line...I'm all for keeping all of the factory motor mounts
There's several threads that should have what you're looking for, if you type "bottom motor bolt" into the 'Google custom search' box at the upper left of the forum page...
