Getting Started (Again) '72 XS2

[Wingedwheel]

So I'm also finding my design flaws, not anything that's a big deal but time to replace a part

I've got to order a right angle petcock due to clearance issues.

 

[Wingedwheel]

Not much progress over the last couple weeks. I have slowly been going through my ignition and found a bad set of points was keeping me from getting fire. I've been doing the old dance in my head about whether or not to just put in an electronic ignition since I'm not going to be ready before the snow flies. I also want to build a custom seat pan to have covered this winter and I'm looking at fabbing my own set of FWD controls. It appears my stock pipes will interfere with anything I mount to the front motor mount
holes. Anybody have any experience with that?

 

[fredintoon]

Hi Wingedwheel,
Going the Pamco route works well if you don't eff up the install. Staying with points is the least costly way to go.
The easiest way to make a custom seat pan the exact shape you need is to make one from fiberglass.
Carve a male mold from urethane foam, laminate over it and carve out the foam when the laminate sets up.
Or,
Make a seat pan from cardboard and masking tape and glass over it both sides.
I've never hung forward controls from the front motor mounts but I have used them to mount sidecar subframes.
Same trick will work for forward controls.
Bolt on a flat steel plate that's shaped so that the footpegs can bolt to it in a place that misses the exhaust pipes.

 

[Wingedwheel]

Hey Fred,
Yea I know points are the cheaper route, they're about $9 from 650 Central and I've never actually had an issue with them i'm just trying to map out my winter projects. it's funny how bikes can become a constant source of change. I'm always thinking about making something just a little bit "better". as far as the mounts, here's a good shot of the clearance for the pipes I'd need to figure out if I use the front mmount locations. I guess my other option would be more welding on the frame.

This is an older shot of the bike with the stock pipes I'm using. I guess the other solution would be to change the pipes.

 

[fredintoon]

Hi Wingedwheel,
I just realized your bike is a '72. It's got separate sideplates at the front instead of the later models' harmonica-looking front bracket.
That makes adding forward control sideplates real easy because you won't need to find extra-long throughbolts to hold them on.
A slab of 1/4" x 2" flatbar will bolt straight on with easily available longer fasteners and you can drill it through to attach forward controls in a position where they clear the pipes.

 

[Wingedwheel]

So further investigation showed me a bad coil on the right side. I ordered parts from MMM at 650.com and while talking with him about the coils he recommended the better set which is actually only a few bucks more. There was some slight modification to the mounting plate (drilling a new hole) and I had to make up some wires which I did by using the leads off the old coils. new leads were soldered and shrink tubed and after mounting them and installing the new points I had a super great spark!

Now I have to work on the fuel delivery. Seems I'm having a problem with my fuel/air mixture. I played with the mixture screws and got it to pop but still not quite there. I stopped work on it for a few days because we had probably the last great weather of the season so I was out riding and enjoying it.

 

[Wingedwheel]

So after beating my head against the wall trying to figure this out, I decided to double-check everything again and I think the cam chain has jumped a link. When the points lobe just starts to open the points, this is where my marks are.

That leads me to believe I need to pull the head and replace the chain and guides.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Before you get crazy with it, put it at TDC and see if the right side cam pin is vertical...

 

[hardrock785]

looks good!

 

[Wingedwheel]

TwoMany I know what you're saying and I'll check it but it makes sense with what it's doing. (back-firing, popping, not starting)

 

[Wingedwheel]

OK I'm ready to get into this but I have a couple of questions. Can I view the cam pin without pulling the head cover and If need be can I pull the head cover off without pulling the engine? I'm guessing its basically the procedure for pulling the head and the manual says pull the engine, so if I have to do that I might as well do the top end?

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

... Can I view the cam pin without pulling the head cover ...

Sure. It's behind the Advance Unit. This pic came from this thread:

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42782

View attachment 56881

However, if you can see the advance plate, just below the "AD" letters, is the end of the stop-post of the advance plate, which is directly atop the cam pin. If you can see that, use it to see if it's vertical when at TDC.

These next 2 pics came from this thread:

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42488

View attachment 56334

In this particular case, the notch in the advance plate failed, causing a timing problem.
Might want to inspect yours for a similar problem.

View attachment 56335

 

[Wingedwheel]

TwoMany if I'm understanding this right from your pics and post, my pin should be vertical here

With those letter vertical this is where my timing marks are

I'm guessing the new cam chain and guide that showed up today is gonna come in handy.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

... With those letter vertical this is where my timing marks are...

I'll guesstimate that shows the camshaft about 15° retarded.
Not enough to indicate the camchain jumped a tooth (at least 21°).
But that DOES indicate a fairly well stretched camchain.

... I'm guessing the new cam chain and guide that showed up today is gonna come in handy.

Yep, good guess.
Enjoy the teardown...

 

[Wingedwheel]

Thank you for your help TwoMany from one native Texan to another.. it's amazing that small chain could stretch that much!

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Native Texican???!!! In Michigan???

Well, alrighty then. I've got you penciled-in for an early spring blast of our hot air.

Just for fun, I took the same advancer and rotor pics as yours, for an apples-to-apples.

Cam set at its TDC:

And the rotor position:

Not as bad as yours. I'll guesstimate mine at about 10° retarded.

I know my XS1B camchain is quite stretched, but it still runs fairly well for a 23k tired engine...

 

[Wingedwheel]

Ok so after a long winter and doing nothing, I finally got off my ass and pulled the motor. Found a shop near me to do my head-work and while I was waiting I worked on a few other things. I didn't like where I had mounted the seat. I felt it was too far forward so I cut the bracket off and started over, I moved the mount position back almost three inches.

[/URL][/IMG], I then carfully set the seat on and tried it for comfort?! Eureka! Perfect fit!

[/URL][/IMG]. Then a little welding and paint and I was happy.

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[Wingedwheel]

A few day later my head was ready so I began putting it all back together but first a lil paint prep on the head and jugs.

[/URL][/IMG] A super cleaning then some hi-heat primer and paint.I had also picked up a front fender from another member. It wasn't off an XS but with a couple of extensions welded on and some stripper I got it ready as well.

[/URL][/IMG]My paint skills have improved....

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[Wingedwheel]

Then it was just a matter of taking my time and putting it all back together.

[/URL][/IMG]it sure is nice when you get it to the point where everything is clean.....By Fathers day all I had left was adjusting the valves and putting the final covers on.

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[Wingedwheel]

I started Sunday morning with the previous pic and after getting the rest of the prep done I started putting her back in.

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