Got a new Toy this weekend, a Welder

grepper

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I've been wanting a welder for years. I've done a lot of reading and watched videos on reviews and How To's.
Given what I ultimately wanted to do, my goal was to buy a 220v Mig, in particulate a Lincoln 180 ($600-$700 new). I would start setting cash aside, but then always had to dip into my welder fund for something else. Another option I considered was a starter 120v welder and from my reading I knew I wanted the option to go full MIG or Flux Core, variable wire speed and heat (not just hi/low). Well, a Clarke 130EN showed up at a local auction. All the pros say got Lincoln or Miller, but from what I've read Clarke is a good brand. I got it for $75, not knowing if it works. That's the gamble you take at auctions.
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Got it home, opened it up to see that there's nearly a full spool of Hobart .3 Flux core in it, plug it in and the fan turned on. Pulled the trigger and the feeder works. Grabbed a a piece scrap steel, clamped her up, touched the gun to it and ZAP! It works! Hurry!
Now I need to invest in some other goodies, like an helmet (was thinking an auto darkening from HF), gloves, chipper hammer and brush.

I plan on playing with it for a bit on scrap, then fix some broken welds on my lawn dump cart.
 
Hey, grepper, a new toy! A few thoughts:

Open 'er up and retighten all the wiring lug ends. Check the fit of pinch roller groove to the welding wire. Get a mig plier (for cutting wire and removing tips and nozzles). Get a can of splatter spray (sprays on nozzle, prevents splatter sticking). Get a couple spare tips for your wire size.

Auto-darkening helmet, don't cheapo here. At our age, vision too important, eyes don't heal as rapidly. Look for 1/25000 second response time, at least darkness 9. Some helmets allow provision to add 'cheater' lenses (1.5 to 4.0 diopter magnification, really handy with close work).
 
hf will be fine for you. not a great helmet, but itll work for mig. if you get into something hotter id recommend upgrading. cool weapon for the arsenal dude! now you'll be able to do much more. The anti-splatter spray is a good idea too, especially for flux. Not only can you spray it on the nozzle, but you cant spray it on the welding surface too. Also if you dont have an angle grinder, youll probably want one. cutting grinding and flap disc.
 
Thanks for the Advice guys.

Helmet: I'm thinking the HF Blue Flame model, it's rated 1/25000 second response time and darkness setting #9 - #13 (http://www.harborfreight.com/blue-flame-design-auto-darkening-welding-helmet-91214.html) I've read a bunch of good reviews from pros and novices alike.
I'll probably get some nozzles and tips from HF, if not Tractor Supply.
Definitely a set of mig pliers, and some extra clamps.
I see Tractor Supply has the Spatter spray.
I'll open it up and tighten down the connections.

Gotta wait till payday, between this and shelling out over $300 for my daughter's drivers ed class, I'm strapped for cash.

I noticed the drive mechanism is all metal, something I've read to look for and will see on higher end welders.
I plan on sticking with the flux core to start, and invest in a bottle later.

Like I said, my plan is to start playing on scrap. Then fix my lawn dump cart. Then I'd like to build a rolling cart for it. Last year my sister was going to pitch some bed frames, so I grabbed those (free angle iron scrap).
Yes, I have all a matter of cutting, grinding tools, and wire brush tools. Been doing that for years, but actually attaching metal to metal, I've been restricted to nuts and bolts, pop rivets, and bugging the local welders.
 
That MIG has a lot of adjustment for a cheaper model. Fan cooled with more than two power levels? I don't think you could go wrong for the price. This guy's video has some good tips for dealing with lower end flux welders:
 
awesome! i have a cheap HF arc welder. works fine for what it is, but ive been wanting a wire feed for more precise stuff.

bedframes are great for welding practice.
 
I have used the HF helmets, they are not the worst, but mine had a nasty habit of not darkening if you were at an odd angle. I broke down and bought a Miller Elite. It is worth every penny.

I also recently picked up 2 110 mig units for $100, put a liner in the one and it is running great, other one needs a gun. Much easier to just use the 110, instead of switching out the wire on my 220, or taking lots of time on the lowest setting while trying to do thin stuff. 0.035 wire is not ideal for sheet metal, but 0.023 works well
 
I have used the HF helmets, they are not the worst, but mine had a nasty habit of not darkening if you were at an odd angle. I broke down and bought a Miller Elite. It is worth every penny.

I also recently picked up 2 110 mig units for $100, put a liner in the one and it is running great, other one needs a gun. Much easier to just use the 110, instead of switching out the wire on my 220, or taking lots of time on the lowest setting while trying to do thin stuff. 0.035 wire is not ideal for sheet metal, but 0.023 works well

thats because light comes in from the top. get some leather and attach it to the top of the helmet and that will help keep the light out.
 
Looks like a short lead suitcase model. The short lead means dragging the box. The strain relief for the mig gun where it attaches is missing. Usually made of plastic and broken in anger or running out lead.Or from dragging the box that's always in way when trying to weld. My assessment of the machine. But what the do I know I haven't welded with it. Hope it works. Beware of auctions or dumping grounds. You had the right machine picked out the 220v miller. That $75 bucks would have made a good down payment nobody pays cash do they. Not and try to save for it . Not trying to bust your balls just the mood I'm in. I wouldn't have a bike if it wasn't for the Tax check my big cash buy.
 
DozerDan mentioned replacing a liner. Good idea, need to find out which liner yours uses, and be prepared to swap it out if/when feeding gets irregular. It's probably old enuff to benefit from a new one anyway...
 
a Clarke 130EN showed up at a local auction. All the pros say got Lincoln or Miller, but from what I've read Clarke is a good brand. I got it for $75, not knowing if it works. That's the gamble you take at auctions.

Got it home, opened it up to see that there's nearly a full spool of Hobart .3 Flux core in it, plug it in and the fan turned on. Pulled the trigger and the feeder works. Grabbed a a piece scrap steel, clamped her up, touched the gun to it and ZAP! It works! Hurry!
Now I need to invest in some other goodies, like an helmet (was thinking an auto darkening from HF), gloves, chipper hammer and brush.

I plan on playing with it for a bit on scrap, then fix some broken welds on my lawn dump cart.

Hi grepper,
good for you, I'm consumed with envy.
Keep going to auctions; now you have a welder you are going to need a chopsaw and an angle grinder.
An auto-darkening helmet is the only way to go.
I got one for Xmas some years back after decades of using my buzz-box with the old-style helmet it came with.
I would kill to keep it.
If it died I'd buy another with my own money.
Short lead style? Your first project should be a little cart on casters to pull it round on.
OK, no personal experience but I read that getting good penetration with a MIG welder can be a problem for beginners.
The wrong settings &/or technique can produce a beautiful looking bead that just sits there atop the joint and don't penetrate at all.
 
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DozerDan mentioned replacing a liner. Good idea, need to find out which liner yours uses, and be prepared to swap it out if/when feeding gets irregular. It's probably old enuff to benefit from a new one anyway...

Little trick if you are having issues finding a liner for 'your' welder. With a bit of understanding on how it is being held in place and a cut off wheel, you can make a generic liner (miller for ex) fit most machines. I do not own a miller yet only run their liners, because they are cheap and available.
 
Looks like a short lead suitcase model. The short lead means dragging the box. The strain relief for the mig gun where it attaches is missing. Usually made of plastic and broken in anger or running out lead.Or from dragging the box that's always in way when trying to weld. My assessment of the machine. But what the do I know I haven't welded with it. Hope it works. Beware of auctions or dumping grounds. You had the right machine picked out the 220v miller. That $75 bucks would have made a good down payment nobody pays cash do they. Not and try to save for it . Not trying to bust your balls just the mood I'm in. I wouldn't have a bike if it wasn't for the Tax check my big cash buy.

I have enough debt, don't need any more, especially for what I would consider a Toy. I've paid cash for all my bikes too.

As for the income tax check, I usually end up paying. Why... I have my withholding's set so that I'm not lending the government money interest free all year, then get back what I over paid.

The power cord is 10ft, and the leads are about 5ft. Plenty long enough for my work shop.

Found the manual online: http://www.clarkeservice.co.uk/manuals/mig_welders/mig110e-160en.pdf

Here's a link when Northern sold it http://reviews.northerntool.com/0394/16472194/clarke-130en-wirefeed-welder-110-volts-130-amps-model-we6523-reviews/reviews.htm

New it was about $300

As for the liner, the wire appears to come out smooth. I'll really see when I start welding with it. Like I said the feeder unit is all metal, not cheap plastic.
 
I have the Clarke 180EN and I can't complain about it at all. My brother has built some rock trucks with it. I've done some work on my VW sheet metal and bike stuff. Its a nice welder and for $75 you can't go wrong!
 
First thing to weld? a welder cart from a hollywood bed frame often curb alert free. Big casters, front casters swivel, get the welder up to about 24" that will help with the short leads. I agree, about any helmet for MIG, TIG is a lot fussier with the auto darken, Speedglas one of these days.
 
Good idea gggGary Definitely need to get it off the floor. The welder reviews that grepper supplied shows the welder and a longer lead. Someone must have cut the lead down for some reason. Single roller wire feeders more prone to bird nest the wire. The Bend in the liner where it enters the machine adds to that problem. A strain relief would keep the liner straight and less prone for problems. The specifications seem ok. Let us know how it does after you get it set up. I never made a habit of giving extra free interest tax money. That year was to keep the wife's hands off it so I could buy the bike. :D: Really hope It works well for you. :thumbsup:
 
Good idea gggGary Definitely need to get it off the floor. .... That year was to keep the wife's hands off it so I could buy the bike. :D: Really hope It works well for you. :thumbsup:

My wife and I have separate bank accounts, then we put the same amount each pay in a joint account for shared expenses. For both of us, money was high on the list of issues we had with our first marriages. So if I want to blow $100 on a new tool or if she wants to blow a $100 on yet another pair of shoes, we can both shrug and say, It's your money. :shrug:


Yup, Also on the cart will be shelves for holding the helmet and other tools, hooks for keeping with leads tidy and a place for a gas bottle.
 
Cool! I was meaning to stop back here and suggest EXACTLY those items on the cart. Two thumbs up. I added a post with hooks to my snap on mig/gas bottle cart and a tub for "stuff" sits on the bottom tray. Chipping slag gets old REALLY fast, gas is the bomb.
You just have to get used to shutting off the bottle EVERY time you shut off the welder power.
 
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