Jim's 1980 SG Miss September

After checking out the rotor puller I reckon I can make one up with my MIG out of a couple of nuts , some pipe and a bolt .
Sure; If you can cut a fine metric thread inside hardened pipe, you are good to go...

  1. 35-0040.jpg

    Rotor Puller - Alternator - M24 x P1 - XS650
    $12.93

    Part #
    35-0040
    Alternator Rotor Puller - Safely pulls rotor without damaging it. Size: M24 x P1.0Fits: All 650's.
    LEARN MORE
:sneaky: I'm all for homie built tools but think this one's better bought. Mine has pulled dozens of rotors so far, I just keep it greased and remember to remove the nut first. o_O
Noticed you are in oz If I was waiting for an international shipment ot procede I might gnaw it off with my teeth. My wife shows up when I;m working on stuff I swear she can smell when I'm at a frustration point from a 1/4 mile off, I send her to fetch (some tool) :love: I inevitably have the procedure done some "some other way" before she returns. And that's the last I see of her for the day.....
 
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Yeah mate the long wait is dearer than the price.
And as for price add on shipping and then convert to Aussie dollar.

Surely a large fine thread nut welded to a bit of pipe with a smaller nut welded up the top end with a corresponding bolt threaded through the guts of it will work....aided by a hammer blow
 
Needs to be threaded and probably hardened or cut into some steel better than "pipe". Get ahold of your mates and find one to borrow would be simplest. Some guys in the US have been passing one around via the classies here or at least they used to.
 
Apologies to Jim ,, reading about all the tools up there I mistakenly thought I was in a tool thread.....sometimes I forget where I am...
No worries mate.;)
It's an interesting conversation.... one that I had with myself a while back when I realized I loaned mine out and it never came back. I have a lathe so I could have (relatively) easily made one. Finally opted to buy the one Gary put up here. But then I'm not lookin at the slow boat shipping like you are.
Keep in mind that if you weld one up, you're gonna' lose the temper in the steel. Could always heat it a little past cherry red, dunk it in oil and get most of it back. Seems a bit much but hey, I like makin' tools too.:)
 
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Anybody have any experience with this engine paint?


MVIMG_20180116_144308.jpg
 
Hey Jim. POR15 products are great. I never used the engine paint but if it`s like the regular POR15 be sure to have a well ventilated area. The sent stays around for quite a while. Is that the Black or one of the colors? Definitely Bullet Proof! I always put a extra plastic seal (cut from plastic bag) when put the lid back on the can. POR15 is very sensitive to oxygen & humidity when it comes to long term shelf life.
 
Thanks for the info Phil. It's gloss aluminum for my dull engine cases.
I always put a extra plastic seal (cut from plastic bag) when put the lid back on the can. POR15 is very sensitive to oxygen & humidity when it comes to long term shelf life.

There's an easier way.... I just invert the can and put it on the shelf. The paint itself seals the lid.;)
 
I just love that name - 90 Degree Zerk!

You may find the bearings settle a little when you first ride the bike. If the front brake shudders a little just as you come to a stop then the bearings will need a little tighten. When might the launch date be, March/April?
 
I just love that name - 90 Degree Zerk!

You may find the bearings settle a little when you first ride the bike. If the front brake shudders a little just as you come to a stop then the bearings will need a little tighten. When might the launch date be, March/April?
I did these bearings the same way I used to do the old ball bearing setup... I snug it up till all the play's gone and then snug a little more 'till I feel a "little" turning resistance. I never had to re-tighten the old balls doing that. Hopefully these tapers will work the same way. I'm shootin' for April/May for the rollout. If I hadn't agreed to come out of retirement for the school, I'd probably be done by now...
 
Motorbikerx, is there a honda shop nearby?

44 years ago, I had to make my puller, used a common Honda steering stem nut, drilled a 1/2" hole in the middle, welded a 12mm nut to it. Screw it on snug, gentle tap on bolt head, rotor would pop off. Don't remember which honda, tho'.

View attachment 112197

Thanks..just what I need to make!
Googled M24x1mm and CBR 1000 headstem nut came up.
Ill ring around bike wreckers if the nut n bolt shop cant help.
Keepin it simple.
 
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