Mailman’s XS2 a full on restoration

[Mailman]

Ok, stock air filter cages with the pleated paper removed. The Uni Foam filter material robbed from the aftermarket filters. Anybody see anything wrong with just running them like this?
I just rolled the foam tube right over the old cage, it’s doubled and a little bunched. Nice snug fit and everything fits in the filter box nice.

 

[GLJ]

Filters look great.

 

[Jim]

I think if it were me, I'd cut it down 'till it's about 1/2 to 3/4" wider than the cage and just have the single layer.

 

[Mailman]

I decided to go back to my original breather. You may remember one of the tubes had a broken vent tube. So I bought a replacement from a TX650 on eBay, but the vent lines were angled downward. I didn’t like the way it forced the vent hoses down onto my carburetor tops. I knew the spring wire around the hoses would wear into my carburetors. So I fixed my original one with JB Weld and swapped it out.

There! Much better!
Also, those fuel lines that I couldn’t get quite right, well as I said those fuel lines are super stiff, but if you warm them up a little with a heat gun, they become very pliable. I was able to warm them and kinda bend them into an S shape , then hold them until they cool and they fit much better. Time will tell though.

 

[Mailman]

Filters look great.

Thanks!

I think if it were me, I'd cut it down 'till it's about 1/2 to 3/4" wider than the cage and just have the single layer.

I think I’ll live with them for a while , I can always cut them later if I decide to. Even doubled up ( which is the way they were made to run by Uni) if you hold them up to the light, you can clearly see light through them. I think they are fairly porus.

 

[mrtwowheel]

Zip ties over the first layer and tight against the metal end caps to keep it in place?

Scott

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

I use 3/16" (4.5mm) Tygon fuel lines. Very flexible, easily slip onto and snug on the fittings. Don't need clamps. Compact, no problems with fuel flow, no kinking. I use a toothpick to smear a very tiny amount of grease in the tube opening just before sliding it onto a fitting...

 

[Jim]

Even doubled up ( which is the way they were made to run by Uni) if you.......

Didn't know that. In that case, keep 'em doubled.

 

[650Skull]

+1 with what Jim said.................

Scrunching up the filter foam like that is going to disrupt/restrict the air flow........

 

[Mailman]

A little update....

I got my front sprocket installed yesterday.

Today I wanted to run through the electrical system to make sure everything worked. So I installed my battery and started testing circuits and switches. I wasn’t totally surprised that some things worked and some didn’t. Everything had been stripped off of the bike and a lot of new components added. I won’t run down all the things that checked out OK, but I will tell you what didn’t.

1. The horn
2. The starter
3. The High / Low indicator
4. The rear tail light when the key is in the on position / IT DOES WORK when the key is in the number 2 ( Park ) position.

Well some of you probably know where this is headed, but I didn’t. It sent me into a flurry of taking switches apart and opening up the headlight bucket.

I was pulling connections apart and taking voltage readings and continuity readings, checking connections for a good fit. I couldn’t find any problems, then I thought of something. I know the handlebars usually ground through one of the switches, so just to check the ground, I rigged up a little jumper from the handlebar switch to the frame and hit the horn. BEEP BEEP!! Oooh....that’s encouraging!

So I ran a jumper wire from one of the handlebar riser bolts to the frame.

And I pulled the starter lever, RRRR....RRRRR.....RRRR!!! Beautiful! It spit the little socks I had rolled up and stuck in the exhaust ports out across the floor!

I would like to say thank you to Skull ( Doug ) who spent so much time and effort recently to get the XS2 wiring diagram correct. I’m not good at this kind of thing but I was studying that thing like it was The Dead Sea Scrolls!

I’m actually pretty proud of myself for thinking through how to test various connections and eliminate problems, I’ve said it before, wiring is not my strong suit.

I STILL HAVE A COUPLE OF ISSUES THAT I COULD USE SOME POINTERS ON....

1. Why are my handlebars not grounding? I could not figure it out. I’m about ready to tie a discreet ground wire from the risers to the frame. I know the grounding should be occurring in one of the switches.

2. Why is my tail light working when the key is turned to the park position , but not working in the on position?



One last thing, I took another run at remaking my filters, I’m getting closer to something I like. I took Jim’s suggestion of cutting the foam into strips 1/2” wider than than the space they’re going into. The foam isn’t all that thick, so I’m thinking I’ll still double wrap them. Something like this. They stay in place well, but if they want to unwrap, perhaps I’ll go with Scott’s suggestion of using a couple zip ties or I have some fine aluminum wire.

Later!
Bob

 

[GLJ]

Does your headlight work?

 

[GLJ]

What about the speedo/tach lights?

 

[kshansen]

I think if it were me, I'd cut it down 'till it's about 1/2 to 3/4" wider than the cage and just have the single layer.

That and maybe run a bead of hot melt glue along the joint where the foam touches on the end plates?

 

[Mailman]

Does your headlight work?

What about the speedo/tach lights?

Yes and yes. That was really confusing to me at first. Some things worked on the switchgear others didn’t, somethings like the horn were intermittent.

 

[Jim]

The blue wire from the handlebar sw. needs to go to the twilight. Looks like it goes to the key sw. and ends there.

 

[Mailman]

That and maybe run a bead of hot melt glue along the joint where the foam touches on the end plates?

I’d kind of like to keep the foam removable for easy cleaning.

 

[Mailman]

The blue wire from the handlebar sw. needs to go to the twilight. Looks like it goes to the key sw. and ends there.

View attachment 135699

Ok....thanks. I’ll check that out next time!

 

[gggGary]

http://www.xs650.com/threads/early-ignition-switch-r-r-70-73.42161/#post-421845
My guess if you haven't already.

 

[Mailman]

http://www.xs650.com/threads/early-ignition-switch-r-r-70-73.42161/#post-421845
My guess if you haven't already.

Yup done early on. I will say though , that the action on all if my switches don’t feel real crisp. You have to jiggle some of them.

 

[650Skull]

Not having a bike to work with has made this difficult. Untill there is confirmation from your self or GLJ i cannot be 100% certain the diagram is 100% correct

Going by GLJ's comment, in the XS2 wiring thread,


GLJ Ran through life like my hair was on fire 650 time Top Contributor

I have 2 72s. Both have unmolested wiring.The one I picked up earlier this year does run. I checked how the ignition switch/headlight switch function. With ignition switch in position 1 headlight and taillight both turn on and off with the light switch on the left handlebar. Ignition switch in position 2 only the headlight turns on and off with the headlight switch, the taillight stays on full time. I thought that was how it worked but since I haven't ridden the other 72 since 1985 I thought I had better check and make sure.

Going by GLJ's comment, in the XS2 wiring thread, the Switch in second position uses the power on the blue wire to the switch to power the headlight on/off switch.