should I just run things as is until the stock charging system gives up? Or should I try to get in front of this and install a modern solid state regulator and rectifier?
Here's how I'd approach it Bob.... If it works, and is relatively easy to access... let it be. Replace it later when it needs it. If you gotta tear half the bike apart to replace it... do it while half the bikes tore apart. The reg/rec is pretty easy to get to.... let it be.
EDIT: Que the Beetles.....;)
 
The old original mechanical regulator is a real tank and will probably continue to function into the next century, lol. The problem is, it's output isn't consistent, it bounces all over the place. I'd watch eBay for a cheap VR115 (or equivalent). You can score them for $10 to $15 usually. And then the Windy Nation rectifier is only another $10 or so. Why you really want to change these things is because it will take some of the strain off your alternator and rotor, the two "big ticket" electrical items. I think it's worth $20 or $25 now to possibly save you hundreds in the future.
 
When I did my solid state rectifier and regulator on my ‘77, I purchased three of those Chinese rectifiers, I think they cost less than $4 each so what the heck. I thought I might need a spare, but not so far. So I’ve got that covered.
 
Chinese rectifier has been very, very good to me on my CB750C. Soon to find out about my TX650A. Give your rotor, battery and stator a better life. Volt meter works better too, super stable.

Scott
 
Hi guys! I haven’t updated this thread in a while, I’ve been busier than a one legged man in a butt kicking contest!
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I have been busy doing a lot of getting things ready to get serious. I have completely stripped my bike, it is now just the motor in the frame, resting on my bike jack and pushed into a corner of my garage. I have been going over things and compiling lists of necessary items. And I have been ordering a lot of parts. I would like to push a fairly fast pace on this.

I have begun to refurbish various components, the speedometer and tachometer and the handlebar switchgear.
Neither is finished yet but I’m making progress. I received my new gauge face decals from Diablo last week and got them on. They are a very nice product and they look great. I still have not had the time to assemble my gauges yet, but that shall happen soon. I intend to write a comprehensive separate article on the process replacing your gauge faces when I am done, but here is a little teaser, before and after.
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I have also been working on a few other things. I plan on installing new clutch plates and after getting some very good advice about the idea of replacing the entire clutch assembly with a stronger ( and easier to source parts for )
later assembly, I was able to acquire an entire clutch assembly from forum member Daniel Black who has a nice little stash of parts and lives conveniently close to me. I got everything, front to back. I will buy new friction plates and springs prior to assembly.
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I Have also been taking a stab at refurbishing my broken left switchgear. After much perusing on eBay I wound up getting lucky (again) right here on this forum. Once again my friend Daniel Black had an old switch that was broken that I picked up for some internal parts, and forum member KsHansen says that he has my broken push button and some various bits that he intends to mail me. Yay! The guys on this forum are SO great! Since these photos, I have this switch broken down and cleaned up and all electrical contacts shined up, just waiting for parts.
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I also scored some really nice silver PVC wiring sleeves from Vintage Connections in various sizes that I am using to replace all of my cracked and discolored original loom. I have just started doing some of this work and it’s going to look great. This same product is available elsewhere for MORE money and this whole month Vintage Connections has had free shipping! $$ Give this guy some business!
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I have started to get a feel for what direction I want to go with on this bike. My first idea was to leave the original finish, just shine it up and make the bike mechanically sound. After spending more than a week working on my tank I came to the conclusion that I just couldn’t live with it as it was. It photographed really well, but upon close inspection it has the following issues. Too much rust for my comfort level, inside and out. After cleaning the inside with vinegar, it was still very rusted and the metal was very pitted, that and the rust on the underside of the tank, especially along the seems made me realize that I need to seal the tank. The finish is also in poor condition, there are stains in the paint from ( I believe ) from the guy I bought it from attempts to clean the tank. And a number of small dents. So....all this led up to my decision to send the tins out to be stripped, have the tank sealed and repainted. I sent them to Marble Motors. I have seen their work and I have high hopes for the finished results.

http://marblesmotors.com/paint-and-body/

I would just like to say, thanks again to all that have been helping me with tech support, moral support, encouragement , parts and pointers as to where to find suppliers.
So, I am making progress, just nothing much to show for it YET! Hopefully by the next update I’ll have a little more to chew on.
Until next time,
Bob
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Today I continued stripping the bike down. I am slowly filling up three big Tupperware tubs, bagging and tagging as I go.
View attachment 115151 View attachment 115152

I continue to be amazed at the condition of the wiring, every connection I have pulled apart has been clean and shiny.
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The worst stuff still appears to be the condition of all the rubber. Every grommet, rubber washer and unique rubber mount is either hard and dried out or rotten and crumbly.
And pretty much all of the frame that lies below the battery has been damaged by battery acid and is rusted.
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I’ve also been wondering about the stock charging system. I know it is charging because I took along a multi meter and checked it when I first heard it run, and the bike is very low miles (5500) , but I am trying to decide, should I just run things as is until the stock charging system gives up? Or should I try to get in front of this and install a modern solid state regulator and rectifier? Lord knows I wouldn’t mind saving a little money.
Pretty soon I shall be placing some large orders and getting the ball rolling on refurbishing parts, but lots and lots of cleaning needs to be done first.
It’s a good thing that this is my idea of fun!

:) Bob
G'day Bob,

If it were mine I would powder coat the frame, etc. as I did with mine and it looks great.

Also no lead acid batteries for me.

Keep on keeping on as you always do and this sucker will turn out just "peachy"

GW
 
Those face plates look very good. I would measure those clutch plates and if they are in tolerance I would just clean and keep them along with the steel plates. I have had new plates and they tend to stick together if the bike sits for a bit causung problems. All of my bikes are running on 40 year old plates with no problems, those connections do look brand new. You did score a very good example of an XS2
 
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I've never had new clutch plates either, just old, in spec ones. They've always worked fine for me. I know occasionally someone around here reports bad old ones, but I'd give them a try 1st. Chances are they're fine. I do always install new springs though. Never found good old ones of those. They've all gone soft.
 
I'll pile on here Bob;) If the plates mic. good, spend your money on sumpin' else.
 
Also do replace the stock reg/rec with a solid state unit. You can LIGHTLY sand (400 -600 grit or finer)the face of the rotor and bring the copper rings back to clean. Put in new brushes and you good to go.
 
I don't sand the slip rings, I use chrome polish on them. Shines them up like new and I don't think it's as abrasive as sand paper. Once polished, I wipe them down with electrical or contact cleaner to remove any polish residue.
 
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