New XS1B owner

U-turn

XS650 Member
Messages
8
Reaction score
1
Points
1
Location
Washington State
Greetings xs'ers

I've been lurking around since picking up my first bike last month and figured it was about time to introduce myself and say thanks for the great resource that is the xs650 forums...

My friend's dad had this XS1B that he bought in '76 and rode until '90. It had been sitting tarped outside (pretty much in the woods) until I picked it up. I was a little hesitant with the corrosion situation, but having scoured the net and finding no history of frame failures (aluminum gixers aside) I decided to go for it. http://www.1971xs1b.com/ was pretty inspiring to me as well.

I've been looking for a cheap bike to just ride, and this pretty much fits the bill. Not the prettiest, but can't beat the styling IMHO. After getting the bike home, the sissy bar, crash bar, cans, rack, and windshield were the first to come off. Next it was getting the engine to turn. The clutch was also seized up, so the side cover came off, and the clutch plates wiggled loose from each other. 10 days worth of differing penetrants and rocking, tapping and twisting finally got the engine to turn- with what felt like descent compression. Now I could check for spark- having found none I went around the bike with the repair manual and test light. Simply dirty points. Excellent!

By far the nastiest part of making the XS a runner was dealing with the fuel system. The petcocks may as well have been filled with putty or glue, and you could smell the tank from a mile away. The carbs were not that bad... In need of cleaning but I opted for the spray can of carb cleaner and seem to have gotten away with just using that. The pistons were frozen up, but thankfully the rubber at the top looks serviceable.

Anyhow, I'm happy to say that after freshening up the systems on the bike, it's back running. I've not ridden any great speed or distance yet as tires are the next item on the list, along with a new rear drum connecting rod that did not want to be adjusted. I'm thinking of doing the brake and throttle cables for safety's sake, but beyond that I don't think I'll need much more.

That's the past month for my bike in a nutshell. It seemed to me a testament as to the quality of these bikes that one could sit 20+ years in a moist environment and be forced back to life with not even a teardown. Looking forward to hitting the road.


...and now a few pics!
XS coming home

IMG_5083.jpg




A few weeks later

IMG_5089.jpg




IMG_5091.jpg


Cheers
 
Great job on the cleanup , You got lucky finding an un molested 71`. Like you said they really are great bikes. Congrats.
 
Nice find! Mine was in about the same shape when I got it a couple of years ago. Congrats!! :thumbsup: The hook is set..... :D


018.jpg


021.jpg
 
Hey thanks for the welcome.

Classic, I haven't figured out yet what best to move me and my crap around; the cans or if I can get away with just a rack. If I decide against the cans, you can have the right of first refusal.

My plans are to next remove the wheels, service the bearings, inspect the brakes and install some new tires. I'm tempted by the K70's as I won't be doing too much carving though it sounds like those who ride seriously go with an updated tread design. Also after a tank badge as my right side one pretty much warped, cracked, and fell off. Not unlike the windsheild. Any (whole) condition would do ;)

Nicely done Mick, and thanks for posting the pictures- the second one gives me a better idea of the proper cable routing for when I right-size/replace the throttle cables. That pic also reminds me: One of the best items included with the bike was the service manual, but I didn't come across any sort of adjustment procedure for the steering bearings. Maybe I'm overthinking this one and it should just be tight enough to get rid of the free play but not so tight as to drag or bind? I'm sure a forum search would sort me out.

Thanks again for the welcome
 
Thanks! I can take better pics of cables if you want, though the routing may not be totally correct as the bike had the same bars as yours with mickey mouse cables. A 70's thing I guess. Maybe someone with more knowledge will enlighten both of us. As for the steering head bearngs, when I took them out the grease had congealed into a tarlike goo and the races were really dented. Replaced with tapered rollers, now much better.
Mick
 
Congratulation with your XS1. still one of the nicest XS-ses to ride!:)
I own mine for over 25 years now. When I bought it , it was painted(!) blue in the.
I think they would have it look like a TX.

One question to other XS1 riders, in Europe it's no longer possible to buy good break shoes.(no asbestos)
Before I had Ferrodo AM4 material on them. This was very nice.
What do you use in the States on the front break?

Jan
 
Very nice find. Looks like a good start for you. Take your time and enjoy the research while doing the restoration. Glad your not cutting it up. I think Mikes XS just added front shoes for the XS1B Part #29-6502
 
Yeah the tapered roller bearings are a nice upgrade. The xs1b has a friction based steering damper integrated into the steering stem. You'll control how loose/tight the steering is with that.
 
...Mikes XS just added front shoes for the XS1B Part #29-6502
Good tip. I think I had looked before and not seen them on that website but do see them now under the New Items section. That should help put me over the free shipping threshold.:D Tires should be in next week so I'll have a look at the shoes then. For $29 I think I'll do the front's regardless.

Cheers
 
Hi Leo,

On my XS1 I do have the ferrodo asbestos free replacement for the AM4 race material. I find breaking is inferior to the old (asbestos) stuff from ferrodo)
The material is added by a break specialist, he also wanted the drum (the complete weel)
for assemblingto match shoes and drum. The drum inside is perfect, no rills or anything.

Jan
 
Jan, yes, the best way to get the shoes to match the drum is to mount the shoes with material that is too thick then mount them on the backing plate and turn them down to match the inside diameter of the drum. This gets as much brake surface contact as possible.
I'm not sure just what lining Vintage brake uses. Might try calling or E-mailing them to ask.
Leo
 
Jan, it's done pretty much as I described. You turn the brake shoes while mounted on the brake plate so the shoes outside diameter matches the drum inside diameter.
To do the work, can it be done by anyone with a lathe, probably, if the lathe operator has a bit of knowledge, yes.
Just slapping any shoes in side of a drum will work, turning to match diameters will make them work better becuase the contact between the shoe and drum in maximized.
To better visualize this take to round things, like lids of of two different sized jars. One three inches and one four inches. Fit the smaller in the larger. You will see just how much contact area you have. Not much. Now just imagine if the smaller was just a touch under four inches and was inside the four in lid. Much more contact between the two. More contact is better brakes.
Leo
 
Selling...

I've had a great season riding the XS- over 2,500 miles so far, drove to work only 3 times all summer; however, the clutch has given me wicked tennis elbow in my left arm. Rather than see this bike sit again, I've decided to put it on the market. Not pictured above are the candy orange shocks sold by Mike's XS.

Edit- sold. :(
 
Last edited:
The bike looks good in the photo! Have you had any ignition troubles? The first time I was in an all day rain, the original coils went south. New ones from Mike's and end of starting issues. I've put about the same mileage on mine and it runs very good. You will regret selling it, though :doh: Money is gone, bike is gone....
 
U-turn, have you replaced the old clutch cable with a fresh one? You could have some corrosion inside the cable housing, causing the stiffness you are talking about. A fresh cable with some white lithium grease injected into it will make that clutch lever a lot more user-friendly.

Billy
 
Back
Top