newbie xs 6-fiddy chop

for the hardtail i decided to flip the bends like you said jimmy, but like the second pic with 3 tubes. i got them all tacked in and i think your right flipping the bends did the trick for me. i also ran into another small problem the chain slightly comes in contact with the top cross tube in the hardtail and like a dummy i already fully welded it, so im thinking i may just notch it out and ad another in front of it for strength. i was also thinking i could put a skate board wheel there but im not sure if they can be used on the top of the chain because thats where all your drive force is. come on jimmy hook me up with another idea for that lol.
 
I am glad to see you are looking to strengthen the hard-tail, the bracing you have been looking at is good but for every brace the stress gets moved or congregates to another area. BigJimmyW13's last pic is good as that imitates in the pic i have posted. It is hard to suggest a brace without completely changing the look of the hard-tail.
A reverse bow from the front bottom, in line with the back of the single down-tube at the back of the motor, curving up and intersecting the top tube and finishing half way between the rim and axle adjusters on the bottom tube.........Haven't got a program to paint it in.....
 

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I don't think I'd notch anything out of the tube man. Before I wasn't THAT concerned with the upward bends (although understandable call for concern), but when you start cutting out of the structural integrity of the frame tubes... That concerns me.. I don't think there would be anything wrong with putting a chain tensioner on the top. Not conventional, but I don't see why it'd be a problem. Of course I also am not an expert in this area. I come up with ideas not whether they'll work or not. :D

Skull I just used MSPaint! :D
 
These braces would not interfere with the chain, in my opinion would give you the strength needed
 

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i also ran into another small problem the chain slightly comes in contact with the top cross tube in the hardtail and like a dummy i already fully welded it, so im thinking i may just notch it out and ad another in front of it for strength. i was also thinking i could put a skate board wheel there but im not sure if they can be used on the top of the chain because thats where all your drive force is.

You might be able to use a small sprocket on a bearing welded to the tube to hold the chain down under the rail. Like a hard-mounted sprocket chain tensioner.
 
I don't think I'd notch anything out of the tube man. Before I wasn't THAT concerned with the upward bends (although understandable call for concern), but when you start cutting out of the structural integrity of the frame tubes... That concerns me.. I don't think there would be anything wrong with putting a chain tensioner on the top. Not conventional, but I don't see why it'd be a problem. Of course I also am not an expert in this area. I come up with ideas not whether they'll work or not. :D

Skull I just used MSPaint! :D

im talking about the tube below the seat . it connects the top hard tail tubes to each other. i either have to cut it out and move it up a little bit, and thats why i figured instead of grinding it all out i could put the new one further up and just notch the old one instead of talking it out
 
ive been making some slow progress. Im almost done with my pipes, just have to wait till i go to work monday so i can tig weld the last 2 joints and then i need to make some kinda of bracket to support them at the rear. I think they turned out great and the best part is it only took $40 to make them!
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sick ass build! love the pipes. i just bought a frame for 50 bucks to try and rank it and you my friend have just given me an urge to get out in the garage!
 
I must be going nuts, when i looked at this thread last night i was sure INXS had asked a question on the lengths of each exhaust. Now it is not here.............:confused::confused:.

Ha, Ha, i found it in another thread.......... Here
 
I am glad to see you are looking to strengthen the hard-tail, the bracing you have been looking at is good but for every brace the stress gets moved or congregates to another area. BigJimmyW13's last pic is good as that imitates in the pic i have posted. It is hard to suggest a brace without completely changing the look of the hard-tail.
A reverse bow from the front bottom, in line with the back of the single down-tube at the back of the motor, curving up and intersecting the top tube and finishing half way between the rim and axle adjusters on the bottom tube.........Haven't got a program to paint it in.....

Hey, I just wanted to clarify that the tail on oldskewljay's "Lorena Bobber" in the picture in post #62 is not braced. That tube that may look like a brace is the seat-post. The tail doesn't need the bracing because the bends in the wishbone/bottom rails oppose one another, lending strength. I realize this is late in the game for sluginxlt but thought the info might be useful for anyone else contemplating fabbing their own tail.

You will also notice that the bottom rail is shaved on the inside for chain clearance. It hasn't been shaved deep enough to significantly weaken the integrity of the curve once welded. See pic below:
 

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if you do a chain-tensioner in the top part of the chain it needs to be ridgid.
the top part will be pulled straight when you put it underload (therefore??? the non ridgid tensioner has no use in this part of the chain. (my 0.2).

a lot of strenght of the tubes, comes of the form of the tubes (because it's round.)
cutting into it is not a good idea (also my 0.2)
 
If you guys are getting married I'm leaving the forum! I dunno how to call this frame viability thing. The tubing will end up with disparate molecular structures due to heat stresses at the weld points, fractures at the bends and virgin structures otherwise. It does seem that the tube would be weak at the bends and even heat treating wouldn't completely resolve that.

You could try to do a stress test, I suppose. Load it up with some excessive weight on the seat mount with the frame supported at the front and rear. Bounce it hard somehow and see what happens. You'd rather have a failure in the garage than in front of a butt-sniffing semi.

Of course, there is something to be said for a good butt sniff. Works for my pooch Hooter anyway.
 
sorry no updates, been busy working on my parents new house, and picked up a 68 cl350 in almost mint condition with under 5k miles on it. been trying to get it running and road worthy for the wife
 
finally got a little motivation and started messing with the bike again. made some brass heat sheilds, brass hidden axle covers, put a fender on, made a new seat pan, mounted head light, made license plate bracket, new rear master cylinder, and also made a bar to hold the caliper.
 

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