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Oil Change and Sump Filter
- Thread starter jimdi
- Start date
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- Tags
- engine oil change sump filter
RDubya
1972 XS650
Anyone have any tips on getting that sump cover off? All six bolts are out but she's holding on tight. What tools do you recommend to get it off if some force is required. Bike is new to me so don't know if some gasket sealer was used before.
Appreciate any advice....
angus67
Welder's penetrate deeper!!
put a wrench on the drain bolt and start turning clock wise. Make ABSOLUTE POSITIVE 100% that all the bolts are out.
except for the drain bolt
except for the drain bolt
There's a very tiny amount of protrusion on a corner of the sump cover than can be carefully pried downward, hopefully initiating the release of the cover gasket. Make sure that the prybar tool fits well, don't want to waste the attempt by carelessly rounding that tiny corner...
I come from the front with a block of hardwood and a BFH. Couple of smacks at the most has always worked for me, even when some douche-bag used permatex gasket sealer! Yup oil or grease on both sides of the gasket is all that's needed to reseal. Do not over-tighten the bolts they are designed to snap off if over-tightened. Check the cover surface for flat, sometimes the surface is a raised a bit around the bolt holes. If so carefully work a fine flat file evenly across the surface till it's just touching evenly everywhere
RDubya
1972 XS650
Thanks Angus....so essentially you're using the torque on a re-seated drain bolt to spin the sump cover loose. I'll give that a try. Good to know that the cover is flush mounted and isn't recessed into the engine case. Cheers. RW
RDubya
1972 XS650
Good point...less is more if it's not coming off easily. Thanks!
RDubya
1972 XS650
Funny how most things in life can be solved with a BFH. I've got a piece of hardwood in mind for the job. I'll let you know how it works out. Appreciate all the advice.
Picked up the XS2 last week. Only 12,300 miles on her. Starts on two kicks. Bit of oil underneath but previous owner didn't have crush washers on the drain plugs. Optimistic that after I check out the sump and scrub her up she might be good to go.
Thanks fellas,
RW
jbenedict
Yamadog Owner
Agreed on the 7 ft-lbs. Those are little bolts and putting helicoils in is an exercise to be avoided. If you are worried about them backing out, use some Blue Locktite on tach one. In combo with the correct torque, it will keep those bolts in.
Does anyone make a reusable rubber/silicone sump gasket? I have one for my BMW Airhead and it works well, Easy to drop the pan because there are no gaskets to be scraped. No need for goo either. What's the consensus on goo with paper gaskets? Yes? No? Use no goo and replace or not replace the gasket every time?
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I'm not aware of a rubber sump gasket. The paper ones work fine and can usually be re-used about a half dozen times before they start seeping too much and replacement is needed. Same with the drain plug crush washers. Keep spares of both on hand.
DO NOT use any gasket goo or sealer on the sump or side filter cover gaskets. I just oil mine with motor oil. Some grease them or use anti-seize. The motor oil trick and equal torque on the fasteners (I use 80 in/lbs on all my M6 fasteners) seals things up very well for me.
DO NOT use any gasket goo or sealer on the sump or side filter cover gaskets. I just oil mine with motor oil. Some grease them or use anti-seize. The motor oil trick and equal torque on the fasteners (I use 80 in/lbs on all my M6 fasteners) seals things up very well for me.
RDubya
1972 XS650
I'm seeing a thin layer of black between the sump cover and the engine. I suspect someone used this: 
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...l-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail
Does this change anything with respect to the previous advice re drain plug torque, bit of prying, and the BFH "final solution"?
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...l-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail
Does this change anything with respect to the previous advice re drain plug torque, bit of prying, and the BFH "final solution"?
The mark 2A cover remover.
None can resist.
None can resist.
zodc
XS650 Enthusiast
Old thread new question. If I used just a ratchet and not a torque wrench, should I go back in and back out the bolt and re-torque to said 80 in/lbs (not that I have a torque wrench. Also, what size stainless bolts did you use?
Hamos
XS650 Member
Nah, you will be fine. They don’t need a lot of torque.
I tighten all bolts with the socket to finger tight. Then go around again with the ratchet until if feel the bolt grip.
Then finally, holding the ratchet at the socket end, “nip” up the bolts, not even 1/16 of a turn.
Holding the ratchet at the socket end reduces the amount of torque you can apply on these small bolts. This has always worked for me, no leaks and no stripped threads on the sump.
I tighten all bolts with the socket to finger tight. Then go around again with the ratchet until if feel the bolt grip.
Then finally, holding the ratchet at the socket end, “nip” up the bolts, not even 1/16 of a turn.
Holding the ratchet at the socket end reduces the amount of torque you can apply on these small bolts. This has always worked for me, no leaks and no stripped threads on the sump.
zodc
XS650 Enthusiast
Good to know I'm not the only one. I got worried thinking it might pop on its own or something.
