Oil Leak?

Richard,the beveling of the outer edge as Peanut has recommended can be done with a Dremal tool.You just want to use your finger and feel for a sharp edge,put a 45 degree angle on that edge until you don't feel scraping with your finger.I would install the new seal with out push rod in,by hand with gasket sealer on outside,lube the push rod before installing it.
 
I think it was Leo who suggested fitting the seal on a stubby Phillips screwdriver and using that to push it in. Here's a link to the page that all these seal install tips come from. I'll add one more - buff the area of the rod that is going to work through the seal with a Scotchbrite pad. In the case of another seal that fits on a shaft, buff the area of the shaft. This cleans and smooths the surface, giving the seal a fresh area to work against.

http://www.650motorcycles.com/XSseals.html
 
I use a standard length #3 Phillips screwdriver. It just fits in the seal. I use a fender washer. This is a washer that has a much larger outside diameter than a standard washer. A bit larger than the seal.
Slip the washer on the screwdriver, then the seal, Oil the screwdriver or a bit of grease.
Slide the point of the screwdriver into the hole the push rod goes in until the seal comes against the case.
The long bit of the screwdriver holds it straight. With a firm straight push it pops right in. The washer stops you from pushing too far.
A bit of Three bond on the outside of the seal helps it slip in as well as help seal it to the case.
Easy to do.
Leo
 
I use Permatex 2B on all my automotive seals and gaskets, I don't see where it would be a problem, you don't need very much at all, just the thinnest of layers spread on the exterior of the seal. I just started my bike after a summer of painting and detailing and I have a raging leak at the push rod seal and a sloppy bushing, so I'll be doing this same exercise next week when the parts show.
 
well done Richard !:thumbsup:

Its the thing I most dread when I finally start my engine hopefully this week
 
photo_zpsd5bf689f.jpg


thought i post this here rather start another thread since my situation is similar to the TS. i was planning to get this http://www.mikesxs.net/product/01-9010.html but not sure if need some of those seals. since i'm ditching the starter i'm guessing i don't need the electric start to crank case seal, the starter motor shaft seal, upgraded cam shaft seal and tach drive seal.

also my clutch has been difficult to engage lately so i figured why not fix the small leak on the right side and line up those dots on the clutch. is there any other seal/gasket I'm missing on the right side besides the right hand crank case cover gasket?

the reason why i'm doing all of this is b/c i'm getting ready to install my pma, and wanted to fix whats under it since ill be going in to some parts of the bike.
 
HKS650,

The PMA means you lose your ignition, just in case you didn't realize that the black box on your altenator is the ignition pickup coil.

You need to change the ignition at the same time when you have TCI and moving to a PMA.
 
@brian yes i forgot to mention that im installing a pma kit thats why i'm doing this since i'll be taking it apart.

@richard yeah it looks like i have to replace that. do you know if the seal behind the sprocket is difficult to change out?
 
Not sure about the seal behind the sprocket, I only replaced the push rod seal, I wouldn't think it be hard, look in the garage section should be some helps there. (good luck) don't be afraid to ask for help here, a lot of great guys and good advice.
 
I just did the output shaft seal on mine, it was really no big deal. Just pull the old seal, and clean the seat where the seal rests real well. I applied the tiniest bit of Permatex 2B to the outside of the seal, and pushed it 75% of the way in w/ my fingers. Used a large socket to drive it home.

Additional question- after replacing the pushrod seal, is it generally accepted practice to fire the bike up with the left side cover off to check for leaks, or just button everything up and go for a ride? My seal was leaking seriously just while sitting and idling, so if it seems tight after the new one is installed during idle with the cover off, I expect it will be fine after everything is buttoned back up. Hoping to pick up tags today, we're real close to a maiden voyage ...
 
On the seal behind the sprocket, it often appears to leak but the nut holding it on is loose.
The seal is in the case. a spacer goes through the seal. This spacer holds the sprocket in the right place to line up with the rear sprocket.
The spacer goes against the inner race of the output shaft bearing. The nut presses the sprocket against the spacer, that presses against the bearing race.
If the nut gets loose oil can seep in between the spacer and bearing race. The oil then runs through the spacer and seeps out between the spacer and sprocket. It's hard to tell if the oil is coming from there or the seal. Before replacing the seal check the nut. Often found finger tight.
Torque the nut to 72-86 ft./lbs. This may fix the leak. If it doesn't then change the seal.
Leo
 

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