TCI magnet

If the stator screws backed out that could cause problems. But several times I have seen stators that were not properly indexed to the small pin on the side of the crankcase. It's found at about 7 O:clock) If not engaged the stator sits crooked, the rotor rubs on it and everything gets unhappy. Sometimes aftermarket rotors fit poorly on the taper and key. I've had to file out the key slot a bit and clean varnish off the taper. These can cause the stator to wobble also not so good.
 
I believe you are... the Rotor is the round heavy magnet that attaches to the crank with a single Nut and key way.... so it can only go on in one direction...... ( it cannot be 180 deg. out )
the stator is the wire coils around that big magnet that is where your TCI Trigger is attached to I believe.... ( i'm doing this from memory so if I'm not letter perfect bear that in mind please) you said the screws backout of the rotor ( there are no screws in the rotor that I know of) and they tore up the wires in the stator..... .... I took that to mean the screws in the stator windings backed out and caused the wires to be chewed up.....
TGOOD said:
Why would the tci magnet be in a different location on the new rotor than the old one ??
Click to expand...
you must admit that it gives very little information to go on.... what year, is it original or what ?
being that it has TCI I Think it's between 1980 and 1984 ..... no points so we don't have to worry about that
but you said "Why would the TCI magnet be in a diferent location on the new Rotor" a diferent place than the Old one was....
Sense I cannot rationalise why you would replace the Rotor, when the stator windings were the things damaged I can only asume you ment the TCI magnet ( the trigger ) that is mounted on the Stator windings..... it simply shouldn't be , but I have no way of knowing if they changed designs or something.... so I thought about it and figured it may be that they just attached the TCI Magnet(the trigger)
in a diferent place.... it would have to be 180 degrees from the other position to work though .....
.... there is the TCI Trigger ( often refered to as the Pickup) and there is the Altenator brushes that ride on the copper rings on the Rotor
the TCI trigger is a rather large black oval looking box of plastic that sets on the 2 o'clock of the stator windings....
I don't think there is anything else down there but I could be wrong..... it's possable that you simply didn't have the stator in the proper Holes..... but it SHOULD only go on one way.... just like the Rotor....
perhaqps they sent you the wrong Stator ?
.... anyway , sense you repaired the old stator windings with "Heart surgury" hehehehhe ( I can apreaciate that!)
the point is probably mute anyway..... glad you got it going
.....
Bob.......
 
Fellas, look at the face of the rotor. There are what appear to be epoxy covered something's there, outside of the outside slipring........or there abouts. I'm in my Jammie's now, I'm not going outside to look.
 
Have a look through this thread... http://www.xs650.com/threads/dead-rotor-best-options-to-fix-replace.36211/#post-372778 .....There has been reports that some after market Rotors do not have the proper taper to fit the crank taper.........While you are playing around with this it may pay to check it out on yours.........In a nut shell if the taper is wrong, the run out will cause the brushes to jump, causing electrical problems..........A check and fix is in the thread if i remember correctly........

Page 1 and 2 in the thread, has most of the info
 
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I just checked a points rotor in my parts stash and there are seven screws that hold the slipring face to its metal body that has the windings.
Three are located between the two copper sliprings and four are located between the outer slipring and the edge. All are recessed and epoxy filled........could be to keep them from backing out and tearing into the stator windings while the rotor is spinning.........I won't be digging the epoxy fill out to see if that's the case....lol
 
Just to clear somethings up here, I was starting to get confused reading this thread.

Think "Stator" sounds like "stationary" meaning not moving!
Think "rotor" sounds like "rotating" meaning spinning around!
The thing with the copper rings in its face is the slip ring assembly. The brushes "slip" along the rings to transfer electricity.
If you have "NON"point type ignition there is a small magnet embedded in the slip ring carrier.
The sensor is the oval plastic "Thingy" with the wires coming out of it. It "senses" the magnet in the slip ring carrier as it passes.
 
Here's the pic as promised. Both are sitting at TDC wrong rotor and pickup ??
IMG_20170504_100454984.jpg
 
The rotor faces magnet- to-screw-hole-mounts appears the same.
Some of these new rotors may not have the magnet aligned with the key slots on the tapered crank end......bugger all on the timing mark.
 
650Skull said:
TGOOD, Even Mikes couldn't make a mistake by setting the pick off by 180%, on he stater........the points are in the way

The pick up can only go i one place. Could there be a manufacturing fault on screw placement..........maybe............ I would explore other options first. Set it up and use a timing light.........XSJohn, (RIP), did a small mod on his TCI ignition by slotting the screw hole on the pickup...This was so he could advance or retard, (can't remember which), Wouldn't have to move that much at all to make a difference.

To reiterate, i would be exhausting all other avenues first or check the old Stator against the new one before installing
Click to expand...
XSJohn's mod IIRC was to slot the upper hole slightly to the right, allowing a few degrees retard. He believed that enables smoother starts without any perceptible impact on higher rpm performance.
 
Ok, talked to Mike's xs. I ordered the 24-2654 which said it was for TCI xs 650 s. Customer service said I need the 24-2652. Which I believe in the one for points. ??? I might be wrong. If so , pls correct me. Thanks.
 
TGOOD said:
Ok, talked to Mike's xs. I ordered the 24-2654 which said it was for TCI xs 650 s. Customer service said I need the 24-2652. Which I believe in the one for points. ??? I might be wrong. If so , pls correct me. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Your right, if you need a rotor for a tci ignition the 24-2652 says not for tci ignitions.
 
Did you ever stop to think ..........Maybe...........just maybe........... the timing mark is in the wrong place.......This is mor likely than the magnet in the wrong place..........looking at the rotors the magnet looks to be in the same place on both........The only true way to compare the Rotors is by the TCI magnet in relation to the Key way...............Might be wasting...... money for nothing........

I would almost be certain the timing mark is wrong..........Look where it is in relation the the screws....Way different....the screws placement near the magnet is about the same on both......the magnet placement in relation the the grove is about the same on both........Every thing points to the timing mark............prove me wrong
 
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FFS!
On the old rotor that works, eyeball where the slot that the woodruff key fits to secure it to the crankshaft is in relation to the embedded magnet on the rotors face.
Now, compare that to the mikes rotor.
If its off then they assembled it incorrectly.
Forget where the timing mark is for this test, it has no bearing at the moment........
 
Key way and timing mark is clocked the same. TCI magnet and key way are clocked different.
 
Screw the timing mark, it's the key way to magnet placement that's important.
You deserve a replacement from mikes.......and if you do get a replacement check the magnet to key way again.

Now, that rotor face from mikes could be removed and turned to where the magnet and key way are aligned properly......it would require a resolder of the two leads. If they don't make good on their product it is an alternative. Hopefully they make good.

Timing marks on the TCI rotor are almost irrelevant. Not so on a points bike.
 
I'll add that the screws that are holding down the rotor faceplate to the rotor body should be refilled with epoxy to keep them from backing out.

The fact that you repaired your original rotor is a big plus.....kudos to ya!
 

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