sherwin
XS650 Addict
I use Rotella as well.
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Whats your engine oil?
- Thread starter XS-IVE Habit
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I exclusively use "not automobile" somewhere around 15-40 oil, on sale. It's been a while since I did a SECOND oil change on a bike.... More relevantly, what sump filter are you using? The 650 tends to shed big chunks O stuff through it's lifespan. Not sending the chunks through the oil pump is rather important. Big bored Swede; both filters are paper? are you sure you can pull oil through a paper filter when it's cold? I don't know and have wondered about that.
TeeCat
One-Mik Wonder
I was wondering if one can "feel" a difference between 20W-50 and 10W-40 in terms of ease of kicking, clutch operation, etc. A couple weeks ago, I put Yamalube 20W-50 in my '73 - I had been using that weight but not that brand - and now that we have had some nights in the 30s and days below 50, I was thinking of going to 10W-40. I was just wondering if there is a palpable experience. My bike was really hard to kick yesterday... she doesn't seem thrilled with the lube. Mid-Atlantic U.S. autumn/winter, btw.
Experiences with 10W40 welcome! I can't recall ever having tried it in this bike since I have had her.
TC
Experiences with 10W40 welcome! I can't recall ever having tried it in this bike since I have had her.
TC
20-50 is way to heavy for east coast winter the bike will be hard as heck to kick 20w-50 = 20W at start up and add its cold outside good luck with that. depending on the temperatures that you will be riding in, lets say sub 40 degrees outside you could run a 5w30 and not have a problem. you want to match your start up weight with the temperature that you are going to be riding at. then cover you self with the running weight of the oil. in California i run a 10W40 in the winter (40-60 out side temp) and a 15-50 in the summer (80-105 out side temp)
TeeCat
One-Mik Wonder
You're right... it's too heavy and I'm not sure why I didn't think about it, other than that we have been enjoying a mild fall thus far, and I had the oil on hand. Even if the roads are clean and dry, I don't like to ride much below 40 degrees, but this oil likely explains part of the low-gear shifting fussiness even with the clutch adjusted optimally. I'll get that 20W-50 out of there for now.
CDNTX650
XS650 Guru
anything thats on sale and not car oil....seriously. all of my old bikes including my commuter/long hauler KLR650 get that treatment. No issues at all. My ducati 999 gets what ever good name synthetic 40w is on sale.
In summer, Valvoline 4-stroke 20w-50, because it's the same price as car oil and is available at chain stores. In winter, Rotella 15w-40, because I can't kick it when it's that cold with the other. I go by this temperature guide (bottom of page):
http://www.dansmc.com/4stroke_oil.htm
http://www.dansmc.com/4stroke_oil.htm
hi guys my lov ,,is a 76 xs650 ,,,with 45mm home made exhaust and tracket mufflers ,, also kitted out oversize jets etc on 38 cv carbys and a 1st over ring/piston kit ,,anyway a few years ago i had a stuffed motor on something else and i tried shell sx4 which is a fortified synthetic ,not a full synthetic,,it works like a treat,,,and its not just gossip.. my stuffed motor was in a gs1000e and you could not stay in the shed if the motoe ran,, 3-5mins. after starting and going thru. the motor stopped blowing all the smoke,,, so ever since i,ve stuck to it ,,,also if i needed to top up somewhere and couldn,t get sx4 shell,, then i could use a good mineral oil to get me home regards oldbiker
pyrocentric
XS650 Addict
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I've been running Valvoline 20W-50 motorcycle oil, but it's been shifting stiff lately since the temperatures are 40F and below.
I'll probably go back to Rotella 15W-40 for the winter.
I'll probably go back to Rotella 15W-40 for the winter.
If your bike kicks a bit stiff when cool out. Get one of those light sockets with a large aluminum reflector, a heat lamp bulb. Plug it in and lay it under the bike so the heat is directed on the bottom of the engine. It will warm the oil and let it kick over easier.
jackstraw650
XS650 Addict
Newbie here......Been following this oil thread with interest....although I have no personal recent experience with oil use in older motorcycles...I do know that a lot of the restorers and builders in Virginia/Maryland/DC area use and recommend Golden Film oils from Morris Lubricants out of Richmond, VA......I don't know much about the actual chemistry of these oils, but they are specially formulated to meet the needs of vintage bikes. They are available 20, 30, 40, 50, and Elite 60 straight weights and 20W50 multi grade. They also have a bunch of other useful motorcycle products. Many of the local Triumph, BSA, and Norton folks swear by these products and their engines are a lot like our 650s.[older metallurgy, hot running, less than great filtration, etc] Classic Oil Supply in Richmond is the US distributor and will ship it right to your door. Their phone number is [804]261-4140 and their email is classicoilsupply@aol.com. Morris Lubricants has a web site that should be able to answer the questions concerning chemistry, etc. That is www.morrislubricants.co.uk I have no interest or connection with this company...just passing along some info that I have heard!
CorradoG60
XS650 Enthusiast
I use Rotella
XS-IVE Habit
XS650 Addict
Here is my plan when I do my next change, I am going with Mobil Motorcycle 10W-40, and 20W-50 when it warms up. Is that a good plan?
According to the link I posted, 10w-40 isn't good above 40F.
Chuck
Useful idiot
I don't understand why drop a weight when cold. If you run 20-50 then let it warm up in the driveway till good and hot (what 5 minutes) then you are no different for it from what I am thinking, other than having more protection with the higher top weight. I also read another hypothesis that running higher RPMs when the engine is cold may contibute to those ripped screens. So warm-up is right in my understanding. Am I missing something? Thanks!
that link is a crock, sorry just my opionion. that only thing that was inportant out of it was change out oil every 1000 miles. 10w40 is very usable above 40F and if you guys really look at it, you should not making your motor and clutch try to push around 50w oil in the winter. an oil change is $15 +$3 for a filter.
ohh and DO NOT oil you chain every time you ride the bike. only oil you chain when you clean the chain then let it sit over night.
ohh and DO NOT oil you chain every time you ride the bike. only oil you chain when you clean the chain then let it sit over night.
Chuck
Useful idiot
Ok I don't get the 1000 mile thing. Oil does not wear out in 1000 miles. Heck its not even worn out at 3000 miles, just dirty. So can somone explain the 1000 mile change that is being advised here?
I have read in auto forums that over changing oil is harder on an engine because new oil does not have as good of lubricating proprties as used oil.
My understanding is that oil can get old and dirty. It should only be changed for these reasons. If its becuase the air cooled engine gets really hot then wouldn't Mobile 1 solve this problem?
I have read in auto forums that over changing oil is harder on an engine because new oil does not have as good of lubricating proprties as used oil.
My understanding is that oil can get old and dirty. It should only be changed for these reasons. If its becuase the air cooled engine gets really hot then wouldn't Mobile 1 solve this problem?
