Dont cheap on your wiring. Run a ground wire up to where your ground bolt is and attach it with all other grounds and the battery ground. If you make a bunch of chassis grounds you’ll be chasing electrical gremlins all the time.
I will concede the advice given and run grounds to battery or cap.
I do have a question I'd like to ask, in particular about the female connectors I'm gonna need to use from the Pamco to the coil. The wires from the Pamco plate I believe are 22 gauge, then from the red out on the coil I'll combine it with a 16 gauge. So I'm thinking of soldering the 16 and the 22 together then crimp it in a 14-16 gauge female connector then put a little shrink wrap over it over the crimped area. Sound ok? Pic for reference.
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Hi Scott,
true, dielectric grease ain't a conductor.
OTOH, I've found that it don't interfere with a terminal's conductivity so long as the terminal's surfaces are squeaky clean and they are done up tight.
What dielectric grease WILL do is keep the water out.
And although water IS a conductor (except for the super-pure water in nuclear reactor spent fuel bays) the nasty green crystals that grow in between wet terminal joints definitely AIN'T.
Yeah, really cool fuse block compared to what's available in the chain stores, please send me a couple. Like the subject and comments on your thread too.
Scott
A note about grounding:
It's important to have a good ground between the frame and the engine even though they are bolted together. The dissimilar metals involved in the motor mounts and the engine can develop resistance. The PAMCO and other electronic ignitions have a ground to the sensor plate directly from the points housing and another ground from the box of tricks to the frame. This ground goes through the PC board in the box of tricks as well as the PC board of the sensor which creates a path for current from the battery or capacitor to the alternator or starter motor on the engine which would carry any current that is not carried by a bad ground between the engine and the frame. The problem is most evident with a starter motor when it draws large amounts of current from the negative battery terminal to the frame of the starter motor. This "leakage" current will pass through both PC boards of the ignition system and could either cause the ground track on the PC board to burn open or cause interference to the electronics in the box of tricks. In the case of a starter motor, the ground between the frame and the engine should be able to carry 100% of the starter motor current.