2 signals? All 4?

[littlebill31]

I finally got home and figured I'd mount my turn signals today. Followed the diagram as I should and hooked them like they should be. I did delete the canceling unit. I put a flasher from mikesxs on it as mine was gone. BUT, to test them I only hooked up the 2 front. The two rears I have are broken. When I turned the key on the signals worked, but would not turn off. The left would be on 'till I pushed the switch to the right, then the right would stay on. If I put the switch in the middle it didn't matter, one would be on. When I pushed the switch in, the fuse blows.
Any thoughts? Do I need to run all 4?
I will say that I only hooked up the left front and the right front, as in I didn't have the wires running to the rear signals without lights.
Thanks all

 

[uknowme2goog]

any pictures of what u installed. I dont have any signals on the bike....it looks so nice without them..but i know one day the cops will bust my B@lls...

 

[littlebill31]

Just stock signals. We have to have 4 square inches of illuminated area. They are picky in DE.

 

[littlebill31]

Well, I'm stumped...and freezing. If the key is "on" the headlights, tail, brakes all work fine. If I turn the signal switch on, without them hooked up, the headlight goes dim. If the signals are hooked up the fuse blows. I know that too much grounded to the headlight shell will do this.
The lights are from mikesxs and only had one wire (power) in them. I know I need a ground. So I hooked a ground to both lights, which touch the headlight shell 'cuz you have to connect the ground to the threaded stem. But that doesn't answer the headlight dim when I don't have the signals hooked up..
I guess it's the brand new switch I bought.
I wonder if I ramble on for a while if the answer will appear. echo,echo,echo.
No batting, number 25, Manny Moto.
There is a ground to the switch and another to the headlight, then the 2 signals....hmmmm?

 

[littlebill31]

Fixed it...Go Meat!
But I don't have a high beam now. All the diagrams say from switch to headlight is yellow, green, and black. That gives you a light, but low beam even when switch is on high. Without the reserve lighting unit and canceling unit it throws it off.
Gonna work on this tomorrow. I kinda like to have a highbeam.
Any tricks?

 

[Grinder]

For simple wiring there should be a blue/yellow wire going to the dimmer switch. That is your main feed to the switch and should be hot only with the key on. You can check the switch for continunity. With the blue/yellow, green and yellow wires unplugged, you should have continunity between the blue/yellow and green when the switch is in low beam position and between blue/yellow and yellow in the high beam position.

If this is all good, connect the blue/yellow to a switched 12v source and the green and yellow to the lo/high beam on the headlight along with a ground.

 

[littlebill31]

I'll try it, thanks.

 

[bluebikerblan]

Pretty easy to cofuse the dark brown (chocolate colored) turn signal wire and or the dark green with a black ground wire.....sounds like power from the turn signal switch or is going to ground rather than dark green or dark brown when you push the turn signal switch in. ???

You'll need the load of all 4 turn signals...(2 on the left plus indicator) and (2 on the right plus indicator) to actuate the flasher.

Did you connect blue/yellow from the feed plug to the reserve lighting unit (RLU)to blue/black when you removed the RLU? You need to supply power through the safety relay lighting. BOL

 

[littlebill31]

What happened was when I was connecting everything I messed up reading the diagram and hooked the yellow/red to the green headlight. I just didn't double check. Which is one of my golden rules. I hooked up the 2 front signals per stock diagram and the headlight. Gr to gr, y to y, and bl to blk. Everything works fine now. Gonna try Grinder's suggestion later. The y/r went to the canceling unit so it's what caused the problem.
I got rid of my reserve lighting and canceling unit.