4way connectors

[Shipper]

Here's a question. My soldering tool doesn't seem to get hot enough to solder silver to a four way connector in the headlight assembly as is stock assembly. The connector is for the direction/signal/running lights.

Is there different degrees of heat for solder tools? Suggestions?

 

[MaxPete]

Hi Shipper:

(PLEASE don't take this the wrong way...) but is the end of your tool clean? Soldering stations include a little sponge (see below) which works great for cleaning off oxidation and crud from hot soldering tips - and that really increases the heat transfer between the tool and the workpieces (the wire and the connector). The other thing is to maximise the contact between your soldering iron and the workpiece by laying the iron along the piece and giving it a few seconds to heat up before applying the solder. Finally, are you applying flux paste? It is essential to ensure to the the workpieces (the wire and the connector) are clean, oxide free and also that the soldering tool is clean - and a little touch of flux paste on each it important to produce a good joint.

Remember - always put the solder on the workpieces - not on the soldering iron. The solder will melt when the workpieces are hot enough and it will flow to wherever you have put flux.

Also, Princess Auto sells a decent soldering station with variable heat and it is perfectly adequate for those connectors. I got one a few weeks back on sale for about $24. Here is photo and the part number is SKU: 865-1598 and the regular price is $35 CDN. I have used it and it works fine:

Soldering Power Station
SKU: 8651598

• 
  

5 reviews


$34.99

 

[Paul Sutton]

In the olden days we all used Lead based solder with a melting point close to about 150 (or was it 180) Degrees C. Now the trend is to remove Lead from the environment due to its toxicity so we have Lead free solder made from about 2% Silver and tin + Copper which melts at about 200 - 220 degrees C. The old electronics soldering irons at 15W were ok with Lead solder but really struggle on Silver. Also those connectors represent a large heat sink so everything is against you unless you use a higher temperature/wattage iron. If you are desperate then put flux on the connector, pre-tin the wire and then build up a drop of solder on the iron's tip. This will allow you to transfer more heat to the connector. Alternatives will be to use a crimper or buy a higher wattage/temperature iron. I recently soldered a connector and had to premelt a drop on the iron. Some people frown on this but my iron is 30 years old and gets lots of use and is still on its first tip. I use Lead based solder for most work because I have a large reel from 1980 and there is still loads left. I only use Silver on water pipes. I will buy a higher temperature iron this year.

That iron Pete Max showed looks good.

 

[fredintoon]

Here's a question. My soldering tool doesn't seem to get hot enough to solder silver to a four way connector in the headlight assembly as is stock assembly. The connector is for the direction/signal/running lights.
Is there different degrees of heat for solder tools? Suggestions?

Hi Shipper,
as long as your tool end is kept clean (and Pete's advice on that is good for all manner of things)
but the solder won't flow you don't need a soldering iron (and why iron when the end is made of copper?)
that goes to a higher temperature, you need one that has more Watts.
The little guy in Pete's photo is perfect for assembling transistor radios.
For running solder onto the part in your photo I'd use an 80Watt iron or a 100Watt if I could find one.

 

[mrtwowheel]

I never use a soldering iron anymore after I tried Harbor Freight's butane torch. The torch is fast and can get the metal so hot that the solder rolls off the metal without sticking, but a little practice and that problem is easily overcome. There may be a situation where I may need to use an iron, such as other parts too close in the area to use the torch, but not for a long time now. The torch does have its fragile parts but mine has lasted for quite a while now and I would run to HF to get another one if I had to.

Scott

 

[Shipper]

Hi Shipper,
as long as your tool end is kept clean (and Pete's advice on that is good for all manner of things)
but the solder won't flow you don't need a soldering iron (and why iron when the end is made of copper?)
that goes to a higher temperature, you need one that has more Watts.
The little guy in Pete's photo is perfect for assembling transistor radios.
For running solder onto the part in your photo I'd use an 80Watt iron or a 100Watt if I could find one.

Thanks Fred, Had good luck with my old iron on a new 4 way from Mikes. Apprciate the advice.

 

[Shipper]

I never use a soldering iron anymore after I tried Harbor Freight's butane torch. The torch is fast and can get the metal so hot that the solder rolls off the metal without sticking, but a little practice and that problem is easily overcome. There may be a situation where I may need to use an iron, such as other parts too close in the area to use the torch, but not for a long time now. The torch does have its fragile parts but mine has lasted for quite a while now and I would run to HF to get another one if I had to.

Scott

Appreciated.

 

[YamadudeXS650C]

In addition to the previous suggestions, I'll mention that I have found it helpful to occasionally detach/unscrew the tip of my iron, clean the contact surfaces with the wire brush wheel, and re-attach it, snug. I then get the amount of heat that it is supposed to provide.

 

[MaxPete]

Heat transfer is all about clean solid contacts and a good fit.

 

[YamadudeXS650C]

Heat transfer is all about clean solid contacts and a good fit.

Although researchers say that men in general think about sex about 75% of their waking hours, you seem to be particularly preoccupied, eh, Pete ?

 

[MaxPete]

No no 'dude - heat transfer is a recognized part of the mechanical engineering scope of practice!

 

[YamadudeXS650C]

No no 'dude - heat transfer is a recognized part of the mechanical engineering scope of practice!

"Mechanical Engineering" is just code for finding new ways to do it.

As for myself, I have no shame. I'm at 85%. I set aside 15% for wrenching on the bikes.

 

[MaxPete]

Good man!

 

[Michaelo]

These bloody 4 way connectors are the Bain of my life, them and the male bullets that fit the connector + the insulation is the biggest PIA known to man kind.
Question, where can you buy \ purchase the complete replacement connections that are the same size?
I would replace the lot if I could find them.....

 

[grizld1]

Mick, my favorite source for connectors and terminals is www.vintageconnections.com . They offer a full range of plastic connector blocks, F-crimp spade connectors and bullet connectors, pin connectors, etc. I've ordered from them repeatedly and have been very happy with price and service. Another source of terminals (but with a very narrow range of OE-type connector blocks) is www.easternbeaver.com . I haven't done business with Eastern Beaver; pricing looks to be set as high as the owner thinks the market will bear, and the pitches for some of his gadgets have a whiff of snake oil about them.

 

[Michaelo]

Thank you griz, I'll be all over it, it's one think that's not done properly, with others who before me were butchering the guts out of it....