A storm is coming...

pago cruiser

XS650 Addict
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Oooooohhhhhh - this is gonna be very cool to watch!!!!!

I've always wanted one of those PagoCruiser - please keep the build thread current!

Pete
 
I hope to! Phil is a real character to work with. About 3 weeks from order to shipping. Everything is custom made at the time of order. Tank is coated to be ethanol proof.

I ended up with a couple almost complete XS's. A really beat up 76 Standard (but with great lines) and an almost running Heritage Special. But the visuals on the Special... Dang. It's like Yamaha fired all their designers who did such great work from the start on the Standards, and replaced them with marketing morons. "Lets change everything visual that everybody liked about the XS Standards". Sigh... So as I always like the Triumph Hurricane :thumbsup:, figured this would kill 2 birds with one stone...

Have a lot of stuff almost ready to bolt on; been using the 76 as a test bed to fit stuff while I got the 81 running.
Triples from a VX800 to accept 2" shortened KLR650 forks with Racetech springs and gold valve. 18" x 2.5" Excel front rim with oversize disc. CL350 front fender mounted on Eagle Mike fork brace. ATV Hi aluminum bars with KLR controls. Either Triumph Thruxton exhaust pipes (talk about stealth! runs great, but this thing is quieter than a stock CX500 - maybe too quiet), or a Delkivec 2 into 1. I think the Delkivec would look better with the Storm kit. Mule swingarm with stainless chain guard and KZ750 rear wheel with Buchanan Stainless spokes and 17"x3" Excel rim, Ivan Hoey High Ratio Primary gears, 1" over YSS rear shocks. Stock motor with BS34's so far. Going for a Yamaha yellow with black striping, maybe some powdercoated parts. And don't laugh - maybe a well designed luggage rack and a small fairing.;) I ride prolly 40000 miles year, and seems am always carrying things and running down the freeway at 75-80...

The only problem I foresee right now is the longer shocks and the KZ750 rear wheel appears to conspire to have the chain trying to saw the swingarm pivot. Figured this out last weekend. May have to go up a couple more teeth on the rear, and prolly fit a rubbing strip on the swingarm. Hoey recommends 17/36 to be close to stock; but the smallest available for the KZ hub is a 38, and trying to make it up on the other end, I gather fitting an 18 on the XS front can eat the shifter shaft over time..:umm:

Anyhow, should be a fun build - first I've done having most of the stuff just about ready. Although progress may be touch and go, as work seems to keep intruding into my life... Stay tuned!
 
Hi pago,
about the tooth count: my '84 Heritage came from the factory with 17/36 sprockets,
IMHO 17/36 is perfect for sidecar work, I prefer 17/33 riding solo.
You can run an 18T up front and 18/38 gives nearly the same ratio as 17/36. (2.1111 vs 2.1176)
Note that the 18T's reduced clearance limits you to running ordinary chain because O-ring & heavy duty chains
have bigger sideplates and yes, those bigger sideplates will gnaw at your shifter shaft.
My bike has the marks to prove it.
 
Ordered my kit from Phil today hope to start in a month or 2. Using a 78 XS650SE and doing 277 motor.
 
Fred - thanks for confirming the 18T sprocket info. I'll prolly go with the 17T; no sense in building in an Achilles heal...Have you played with the gearing calculator that a couple sites have? I have found 2 of these, one done by Pamcopete that I think I found on this site. But Pete's wants a password to change the primary gearing, as the spreadsheet is password protected - and I cannot find a phone contact. The other one appears a bit more comprehensive, with resulting complexity - I really need to spend some focused time on these. With the High Ratio Primaries, I should be able to go up a few more on the back (to allow for the longer shocks swingarm pivot issue) and maintain stock-ish gearingt; at least that's the concept...

OHRider - Cool! Phil took about a month from order to ship. Talked to him this am, and he shipped mine last week - but for some reason I never got the shipping notice... We'll have to keep in touch on the build. I also asked him about petcocks; and just discovered his do not have a reserve position...:doh: I may try and resolve that before I get mine painted. Did you order yours with his Orange gelcoat, or are you going to paint?
 
Ordered in Orange gelcoat with the graphics like in his web site. what color are you painting yours?
 
After spending way longer than I should have, settled )I think) on this:
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Yamaha yellow 64-7187-8, used on mid 80's Yammis; or so I have been told by my paint guy. Have not been able to confirm on-line; but I like the shade; not too green, not to orangy...Also found a couple companies with really close powder coat colors; waiting on sprayed samples b4 I commit.
 
Test it on your headlight bucket. Its far enuf away if you want a different shade, but will be close enuf to not spray again!
 
Made some progress test fitting stuff this weekend.
The Mule swingarm and KZ750 rear wheel and the 360mm YSS shocks don't play well together...

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There is about 1/4" vertical and 1/8" horizontal clearance between the YSS shock base and chain.
The frame, or at least the right shock mount, seems to be bent; there is easily 3/8" difference between the left and right side. I'm guessing the PO dropped it, and the top shock mount got severely tweaked. I can't compress the left shock enough to get the right shock on....
There is about 1/16" clearance between the sprocket bolts and the swingarm.
There is an interference fit between the chain and the swingarm pivot.
Dang.
I'm test fitting the parts on my Plan B project (the future Enduro), along with the front end which is from a 2008+ KLR650.

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Good news is, came up with some solutions. Only took two friggin days...

The stock Triumph 360mm chocks have a smaller body at the base, which provides about double the clearance of the YSS's. So much for a great deal on good shocks...

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What I really need is a shock with an offset base. Like this; from another project, a worn out Progressive shock from a GL1200:
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The KZ750 wheel came with a 35 rear sprocket; I have a 38 on order, so hopefully it will clear the swingarm. I will be installing the high ratio primaries, and a 17/38 with hi ratio primary is exactly the same overall ratio (4.89) as a 17/34 with stock primaries. This looks like it will work out good.

Not sure how to deal with the shock mount. Other than heating the area with a big burner and wacking with a BFH, it's going to take more skill than I got. :unsure:

Last, I'm a little wary of my new trail number with the leading axle front wheel. I'm using VX800 triples, as they match the XS for tree offset and are 41mm, same as KLR forks. I ended up with about 3.25" when combined with the 3" longer forks ( 2" longer = 3.0") and the 1" longer shocks. I may have to go back to the KLR triple, as using it with the leading axle and keeping other stuff the same gives me 4.4 - about the same as the stock XS at 4.5. The biggest problem with this is that I assume I'll have to trim the steering lock down a bit to not hit the tank - but I'll wait until I get the Storm kit this week to find out...

Alternatively, I've found a set of Kawasaki ZR750 forks with almost identical lower sliders, but without the leading axle. It appears I can swap the tubes from the KLR into ZR, and doing the calcs I end up with about 5.0" trail. But this would slow things down a little more than I really wanted to go...

Sigh. Two steps forward, one step back.





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Got the Storm kit mid week, and got to putz around with mounting it today. If anybody else goes down this road, you have to spend a couple hours grinding side cover mounts, seat mounts, and seat latch (on an 81 special). Point is... there ain't no going back...
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The good:
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The Bad:
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The ugly:
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Good: The fiberglass itself looks well done, gelcoat looks great. Petcocks are a little wonky - I'm trying to find a replacement and will post something on it when successful.
(Not so) Bad: As far as fit, the tank mounting hole is off about 1/4". Which means the tank has to be slid aft to make it fit; not a big problem, as there is still plenty of engagement of the tank pucks to the frame cup. The stock pucks are used. I had to cut some 1/8" rubber to mount the tank, and then some 1/4" at the seat to tank joint. I'll post some picks of the joint tomorrow.
Ugly: The wear on the swingarm is the result of 50 miles with 14" eye-eye Triumph shocks with stock 17/34 gearing. This ain't gonna work.
I've seen other threads about running 1" longer shocks - but nothing on this being a deal breaker. Would love to hear from someone who knows a solution.

With the Mule swingarm and stock (13" eye-eye) shocks and a 38 tooth rear, there is just enough clearance at the swingarm pivot - and I hope the shifter shaft. So I may be stuck with 13" shocks.

I tried a 41 tooth sprocket from a dirt bike, holding it up to check clearance - while it worked on the top... it created a bigger problem with shifter shaft interference.

The pic below was taken with the 14" shocks, also at about 50 miles.
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Note the chain angle being deflected- it was worse with the 41T:
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So. The Mule swingarm fits well, got the KZ750 wheel spacers figured out (will be lacing to a 17"x2.5 soon), with a 38T rear sprocket, but it looks like stock shocks it is - unless anybody has any ideas??

Oh. Before I forget, the new 530 JT sprocket is flat, but dished/recessed in the bolt pattern area. Which means the sprocket threads now clear the swingarm by about 3/16". It's still a little close to the shock spring, but unless the chain jumps the sprocket :eek:, guess it should be ok...
 
Pago Cruiser, if you have not already solved the issue regarding the misaligned tank mount then the following may be possible. Weld together two pieces of 6mm stud offset enough to match the tank hole and the stock tank mounting hole. The tank hole piece of stud should just be long enough to take a nut and soft washer while the other piece needs to be long enough to screw into the stock tank mount. All you do is wind the long piece into the stock mount using the short piece like a crank handle and then drop the new tank over the short piece and secure with a soft washer and nut.

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Good idea Paul. And it would work, if the seat did not have to use the same tank mount riser.
I.e., the parts are:
1. 1/8" thick piece of flat rubber stock to cushion the tank sitting on the frame.
2. The tank.
3. A 1/4" thick piece of rubber cushioning the seat from the tank. This is also necessary to make the lines on the tank/seat match.
4. The seat.
All put together, the rubber/tank/rubber/seat are just about flush with the riser.

I'll post up some more pics tonight. Hopefully I can figure out how folks are running 14" shocks without replacing the swingarm every 1000 miles.. I found one thread where a guy was actually lowering the swingarm pivot - way more work than I want to do, and while it would solve the swingarm wear, it would make the shifter shaft problem worse.

After a bit of hunting on the site, found this 5 year old thread...:
http://www.xs650.com/threads/chain-hits-swingarm-what-would-you-do.14918/
With pics excerpted:

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Looks like it would indeed work - but no word on how long it would last with the chain trying to eat through it with every wheel revolution.

It also appears his longer shock (albeit mono, with superb workmanship) exhibits the same issue relative to the shifter shaft deflection:
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It appears that there is only a limited range of items that can be minimally altered in the chain/sprocket/shock triad without buggering the system.
 
One more search b4 I gotta head out to the garage...
Seems XS650's aren't the only Yammis that have clearance problems.
The guy doing the engineering must have been told to keep things as close as possible by the bean counters... After all, to more the shifter shaft down it would have required the engine cases to be 1/4" taller...

From the SR500 site:
http://www.sr500forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3189

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Good solution on the lower: with the roller there will be (2) moving surfaces - meaning the chain will not be eating a fixed part.
The upper is also a pretty thick piece - at least there is a lot of material to wear before replacement.
 
Must say your bike is looking fabulous - That frame colour is so perfect for the overall style. I hope you get it sorted soon. On the SR500 site photo the exposed chain and sprocket means you will always be aware of the condition of that top chain guide.
 
Think you meant the burnt orange frame guy - his does look great.
Mine is still 35 year old original paint...with various appendages ground off showing bare metal...

Good point about the open chain sprockets for visual observation; but don't think I'll go that route. Personally, I have a problem with rotating machinery and the proximity there-of with my limited number of critical body appendages... I also think the Harley guys with their exposed primaries have a death wish...

That said, found this whilst having lunch at the computer:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-A...ash=item2efd528ca0:g:1~0AAOSw32lYonsJ&vxp=mtr

Pic here:
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Yea, it's Chinese, but for $23 it's worth a try. This, or something similar would (I think) solve the bottom, shifter shaft conflict. As I think about it, if I went with a 40-41 tooth sprocket to clear the swingarm pivot, then this to solve the resulting (larger) shifter shaft issue, this might even work, allowing me to keep the 14" shocks.

While not really the place, guess I can hijack my own thread... :hijack: It is amazing how cheap a lot of Chinese stuff is. I bought some stainless dirt bike pegs a couple months ago; $140 for made in USA, plus $12 shipping. $20 delivered from China. GL1800 valve covers: $250 from Honda plus shipping, $40 delivered from China. Great if you are looking to get parts and test things out; but in the bigger picture, I have no idea how manufacturer's in this country can compete with this. When I received the footpegs, I checked with the USPS site for shipping from here (Tucson) to there: About $30 just for shipping a 2lb package... So where are the costs for the material/casting/ natural gas for the furnace/polishing/assemblying (nuts, bolts, springs)/packaging, etc in the manufacturing process? :umm: It is difficult to understand how we are going to "bring back jobs to the USA from overseas" if everything we make is 5X higher price....:shrug:

Now back to the originally scheduled XS650 thread...
 
I got confused, that explains why I was puzzled about you being concerned about the swing-arm. That corrosion comes from acid overflowing from the battery. It is quite superfiical, mine was the same. When you clean it off the metal will be in good condition underneath and if you are on a tight budget just touch that area up. Make sure in future you route the battery vent pipe away from the chain and swing-arm. Mine drops close to the ground on the right of the bike just between the starter motor and brake pedal.
 
Got the Delkevik exhaust mounted. They seem to have a few QC issues as well.
The exhaust flanges were drilled slightly off, needing about 10 minutes per hole with the dremel.
And then the mount in the back was also off by about 1/2"; had to add a 1" riser to get it to bolt up. I just made a quick aluminum piece to get it bolted up; will need to make a new bracket out of steel next weekend.
I do think it looks better with the Del 2-1:

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Also found my 1st stress crack today - the bane of fiberglass. The sexy looking sidecovers are a slide, interference fit on the Heritage Specials - as the airbox cases are slightly bulbous. And I have installed/removed prolly 30 times this weekend. Its only the gelcoat, but I'll have to address during painting, and either flatten out the airbox covers, or relieve (trim) the fiberglass underneath.

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