Blew the main fuse again...

pumps, there are two holes that I see. I have some assorted grommets, which may work. But it's VERY unlikely that the bike had no grommets to begin with... and that metal is thin and sharp... eventual chafing is a veritable certainty.

At the first chance, I'm going to get grommets or something on there, get that segment of wire in some protective loom, and try to reproduce this problem. Just don't see how there CAN'T be chafing!
 
- some of my light bucket have 2 holes, some have 3...have always had problems finding new grommets for them...26mm and 30mm
 
inxs, in a pinch, I might have to cut a section out of a larger grommet to fit, as long as it leaves no bare edge. Anything would be better than what's there now... which is bare metal against little lightly insulated wires... :(

Man, I hope it's that simple... :banghead:
 
For headlight bucket grommets, get a piece of small vacuum hose the right length and slit it down the side and slip it in. Longer will hold it in tighter. Shoot clear silicone sealer in the tube to hold it better. While the bucket is off, wire brush the inside and spray it with rust killer.
 
Oh, that's a good idea! Before I try that, though, I do have some grommets of various sizes and I'll try those tonight... might get lucky. I'm going to also try to slip some loom over the wires if there is room.

I'm also going to put some small plastic loom over my PAMCO wires near the coil, under the tank tunnel, just to be safe.
 
Alright, this is interesting:

I found two "HELP" oil separator grommets that were large enough to use for my headlight bucket holes. Actually, they were a bit big, so I slit them perpendicularly and made them a little smaller. But I was able to insulate/isolate the wires from the ports in the bucket by using these grommets as replacements for the missing originals.

Not really knowing what to expect, but being hopeful, I rolled the bike out front, fired it up, and rode it up and down the street and around the cul de sacs for about 15 or 20 minutes, left and right turns, etc. I was unable to reproduce the symptom of blowing the main fuse, and even after playing with this for two or more weeks and turning the ignition (with headlamp) on and off, there is still 12 volts showing on my voltage gauge when I turn on the key, even with the headlamp on.

I'm not willing to make any rash pronouncements, but I find it unlikely that this result would not be a direct consequence of installing those grommets. I also neatened up in there some, and capped an unused male terminal that I'm not sure wasn't hot.

We shall see... might go a little further tomorrow... maybe to the next neighborhood over.

TC
 
This might help in a pinch if you don't have it.
1972xs-73tx650.jpg
 
pumps, thanks... I think I do have that one among my collection. I hope to hell I have corrected this. It's weird, though, because it's not like I can say... "Oh, here's the problem." This is one of those no-see-'ems that can make your life miserable, and you might "fix" it, but never really identify it. Like I said... not making any rash pronouncements, but I'm hopeful.

And I was just getting some trust in the bike... I'll have to start over there.
 
Many times I have fixed things but not knowing exactly how. When I was working as an electrician we called it EFM. Electrical F-ing Magic. :yikes:
 
I was still unable to reproduce the problem today after a little local run around the neighborhood for about 30 minutes. That's the good news.

She did a little bit of popping and fussing under throttle, but that seemed to disappear once warmed up... remember, she gets worked on more than ridden, so the gas sits.

Pretty nice idle of about 11/1200 rpm when hot. Hell finding neutral... not much new there.

However, I noticed when I brought her home and she was idling (headlight and taillight on) that my voltmeter on the bar read 12v (maybe a little more) at idle, but pops right up to 14.5-ish when I crack the throttle. If memory serves me, she used to make about 13v or so at idle... I think.

I have seen a lot of specs for idle voltage floating around and they seem to vary. Could I be developing a new issue so soon after installing a new reg/rec, or am I just paranoid?

TC
 
Teecat;
With these bikes the idle rpm has a big effect on alternator output voltage. There is an area around 1100 to 1200 rpm where there may be enough voltage to give you 13.5 volts. However, as the rpm drops just slightly to say 1100, the voltage will drop down to say 12 volts. I see this every day on my bike.

Don't be concerned, all is normal.
 
RG...

I don't think this is my imagination now, and I wish you were right. But I just went out to have another look. Had a helluva time getting the bike started, and I'm getting no more than 12.5 when revving. Just like that. Last time I rode the bike it was fine. All I did was swap loom on the wiring for the NEW rec/rec. New brushes last season. PAMCO...

Could I have done something to the connectors while I was working on the loom? It was fine at first, so I doubt that.

This bike is costing me a fortune and making me miserable. I'm honestly doubting whether I'll ever get the bike to be even minimally reliable for some occasional pleasure riding. It's just mentally and fiscally exhausting so I have to take a step back and look at this objectively. I'm so frustrated that I'm laughing. This is no longer fun by any reasonable standard. This bike hates me.
 
Why the new R/R if it was charging ok? maybe you look for problems when they aren't there teecat. Undo what you did and install the old Regulator and Rectifier and see if that is your prob sounds like one of your white wires is not connected up properly or could be a dud R/R.

Sounds like the lose male connector would have been the culprit for the blown fuses unless you have an exposed/nicked wire where it goes into the bucket, you should check to see that no wires have got a nick in them, that could be a problem in the future
 
TeeCat,

Well, we keep talking about a short circuit causing this grief, but maybe it's just an overload. In other words, the current drawn by everything on is close to the 20 fuse rating and it just takes a little bump, like the brake light when you start out, to go over the fuse rating.

I think in one of your earlier postings you mentioned that the high beam is on all the time. That is not right and could be one of the things that is pushing the load near the 20 Fuse limit. Only one "beam: should be on at a time, so if you can't figure out why the high beam is on all the time, then just disconnect it.

You could test this high load theory by putting your meter in the 10 or 20 amp scale and inserting the leads in the main fuse circuit. Should read less than 10 Amps. Perhaps 15 with the brake light and high beam on.

It is also possible that either the tail light or the headlight has a partially shorted filament. The light still works, but it is drawing too much current. That will also show up with the amp meter in the main fuse circuit. I had that happen with a tail light a couple of years ago. Just happened to notice that the tail light was brighter than it should be.

So, it's not a short per se, but a high load that is close to blowing the fuse and it just takes a little bit more current to blow it.
 
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Guys, I have not been able to reproduce the main fuse symptoms since I put grommets in the headlight bucket holes, so I strongly suspect that that was the problem... a chafed wire grounding there or something... who the hell knows...

Well, I can't possibly be allowed to actually enjoy the bike, so this is a new and apparently separate issue: the charging system does not appear to be working now... just like that *snaps fingers*. I'm at my wits end with this bike. I'm averaging about 15 or 20 miles after fixing one problem before something else goes wrong. Fun? Nope... not where I grew up. :(

Sorry for the attitude... not directed at you... this is just really getting old.

Must... find... Dogfish Head Raison Dietre...

TC
 
Of course owning an old bike is never easy. Think of how many issues a car that old would have? I know you get frustrated but try to keep your cool. Remember my friend, we are here to help you in any way we can. Take a deep breath (and a cold beer). Get out your meter. Start at the beginning. Check your connections and wiring. It could be something very simple. A loose plug or connection. :shrug:
 
I do think you solved the fuse blowing problem. Shortly after I bought mine, the headlight fuse was blowing because the wires were worn through and shorting on the headlight bucket. Mine still had the grommet, but it was worn through lol.
 
Yup, my grommets were non-existent. It's good to know someone else had a similar problem.

pumps, I hear you, but this is getting to be a bit silly. If I sneeze in the presence of this bike, something breaks or stops working. It's taken me three years and a lot of sweat and money just to get it to the point where I wouldn't trust it as far as I can throw a Steinway.

TC
 
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