Boyer Bransden Micro Power Kit Wiring with an M-Unit

peterg

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I have a Boyer Bransden Micro Power Kit on order and am exploring my wiring options. Boyer recommended "a 1 ohm/25 watt ballast resistor mounted on an aluminum plate and in series with the micro-coil feed to reduce coil heating when hot weather town idling". The bike has an M-unit which is reliable in providing consistent voltage. I have the option of providing power from the battery via the key switch to the coil and providing power from the m-unit via the kill switch to the Boyer box or providing power to the coil and box via the kill switch.

Below are diagrams showing my options as well as the bike's current wiring diagram. Any concerns with either option?

boyer option a.jpg
boyer option b.jpg


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It appears your current switch wiring (both) is already present and adequate, just mount the ballast resistor adjacent to coil and jumper to coil+ then connect Boyer per instructions.
 

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Boyer recommended "a 1 ohm/25 watt ballast resistor mounted on an aluminum plate and in series with the micro-coil feed to reduce coil heating when hot weather town idling"
I've been running the blue box Boyer with the 00008 coil for 3 years. Nothing I ever got from Boyer ever said anything about a resistor in front of the coil. The 00008 coil is used with the blue box. It's a current coil. The box limits the amperage going through it. What good would a resistor do?
I've ridden in plenty of hot weather in stop and go traffic with no problems (yet).
 
GLJ - I think it's a bit odd too on modern coil - haven't seen one since 80's - but there it is.
 
What is “hot weather”?? We talkin American southwest hot or Kent where “hot weather” is 60deg and not raining…
 
Wonder why that's not in their instruction sheet?
I've had no problems yet running without a resistor.
 
I’m preparing to install the Boyer ignition kit. When I rebuilt the top end last winter I installed needle bearings in the camshaft. See below.

Is this going to be a problem? The Boyer instruction state that after installing the 8mm stud and rotor from the left and fitting the 8mm spacer, washer, lock washer and nut to “Place a 13mm socket over the nut and sharply tap the end, this will drive the right hand bearing bush home into the camshaft”.

Also, the pre electronic ignition bikes made use of the dowel pins to sync the contact breaker and advancer with the camshaft, as does the pamco system but the Boyer system does not. Why not?

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Boyer uses a threaded rod through the cam to lock things in place. The box does the timing for advance.
 
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