section8joe
XS650 Addict
My head gasket is leaking a bit and I'm going to re-torque the head bolts. I was wondering anyone's had luck picking up brass washers from grainger or a local hardware store. The washers are 22mm. OD x 10.5mm. ID x 4mm.
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Brass cylinder head washer...
- Thread starter section8joe
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Joe I ho-pe the brass washer option works as I will be starting my engine up next weekend.
Leslie
Leslie
Joe,
What do you torque you head bolts up to.
Leslie
What do you torque you head bolts up to.
Leslie
If you can find washers that thick at a hardware store they should work.
On torque, use the stock torque on all the bolts on the initail engine assembly. After 24 hours retorque to stock specs on all the bolts except the 8 big nuts. Use 30 fl/lbs on them. Once you have the engine installed, get it running and let it warm up good and shut it down. Let it cool off over night, retorque. Start the engine let it warm up good, if rideable ride it 50 miles. Change oil, let it cool off overnight, retorque. Ride it 100 miles, retorque.
Repeat this untill you can't add torque. Usually two or three retorques is all you need. Then check the torque once a year or so.
On the first 50 miles get the bike on an open stretch of road, get in 4th gear at around 35 mph, a firm roll onto 45 mph, not full throttle just a firm rollon, then let off and let the bike coast down to 35 mph using the engine to slow the bike. Repeat as much as you can in this first 50 miles. The rollon and coast down helps seat the rings in.
Leo
On torque, use the stock torque on all the bolts on the initail engine assembly. After 24 hours retorque to stock specs on all the bolts except the 8 big nuts. Use 30 fl/lbs on them. Once you have the engine installed, get it running and let it warm up good and shut it down. Let it cool off over night, retorque. Start the engine let it warm up good, if rideable ride it 50 miles. Change oil, let it cool off overnight, retorque. Ride it 100 miles, retorque.
Repeat this untill you can't add torque. Usually two or three retorques is all you need. Then check the torque once a year or so.
On the first 50 miles get the bike on an open stretch of road, get in 4th gear at around 35 mph, a firm roll onto 45 mph, not full throttle just a firm rollon, then let off and let the bike coast down to 35 mph using the engine to slow the bike. Repeat as much as you can in this first 50 miles. The rollon and coast down helps seat the rings in.
Leo
meanstreakmark
Thinkologist
When re-torqueing, do you loosen the nuts first, or just attempt to tighten them (more) from the original torque? Thanks!
At this point just add torque. After a few years you might need to break them loose then torque them.
If you just got the bike and it hasn't been run in years, you just got it running and then you should take those large nuts off one at a time, clean the threads, on the stud and the nut, new brass washers, a bit of motor oil to lube the threads then torque to 30 ft.lbs. Retorque after 24 hours and it should be good to go.
Retorqueing several times on a rebuild is need to compensate for the gaskets crushing to fit. On an engine with many miles the gaskets are already crushed to fit so just the intial retorque and one more is good.
Leo
Leo
If you just got the bike and it hasn't been run in years, you just got it running and then you should take those large nuts off one at a time, clean the threads, on the stud and the nut, new brass washers, a bit of motor oil to lube the threads then torque to 30 ft.lbs. Retorque after 24 hours and it should be good to go.
Retorqueing several times on a rebuild is need to compensate for the gaskets crushing to fit. On an engine with many miles the gaskets are already crushed to fit so just the intial retorque and one more is good.
Leo
Leo
If the original rubber washers are in place on the 4 outer studs you'd better retorque annually and lube the studs as you go--one fastener at a time, remove the nut, apply motor oil or assembly grease (never anti-seize!), torque down, then do the next one. Mike's XS started that business of using brass instead of copper on the outer studs, probably because he could get it cheap from China. For all brass will do there, you might as well use steel. You'd be much better off using copper washers from Suzuki.
Just some advise from a Coffin dodger. Stick to the tightning sequence as attached due to the head and engine being Aluminum.
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Leslie
Leslie
