bikefreak69
XS650 Enthusiast
Ebay for the seals.Just typed in sizes and bought double lip "good seals".From a company called Harwal.
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Cam chain and guide change
- Thread starter Superjet
- Start date
Have had one of those for years! Simple tools are sometimes the best.
Thanks guys again for the info. Even before opening the engine I noticed the outer sealing washers below the crown nuts where located on the inner 4 nuts. I knew I was in for a good one. Upon removing the head it was as discussed here. Cam guide not centered. Someone was in changed some stuff then left in a hurry lol. I got the cam chain pin removed and awaiting the paint stripper to do its magic on half of the base gasket that didnt remove.
A tip on installing the new cam chain - leave the old one in there until you're ready to start the re-assembly. Then, hook the end of the new chain to the end of the old chain with some wire and pull the new chain in while pulling the old one out.
Thanks. I did see that in one of the videos. Looks like permatex was used along with the head gasket....what a mess. The base gasket came up off the base real good but half is stuck under the jugs...of course cheap china tool taking the cam chain link out broke. The pin was out but the tool pin stayed in lol. Any tips on pressinv the new master in? From what I see it is drilled on the end and must just mushroom on the new link.
Best tip for removal is not to use the chain breaking tool, lol. Just grind the riveted ends of the pins flush with (or just below) the side plate, then pry it off and/or tap the link out with a small diameter punch. They come out real easy like this .....
I have the breaker/rivet tool, probably the same style you do .....
..... but as I mentioned, I don't use it for breaking the chain. The diameter of the pin for use on the cam chain is just so tiny. I only use the tool to rivet the new master link. I found that the riveting pin was prone to slipping off the master link pin as you tightened the tool down. That would mash the end of the master link pin down unevenly and on only one side. I found a "fix" for that, I tap a light "X" cut into the end of the pin 1st with a small sharp chisel. That holds the riveting pin in place so it doesn't slide off to the side .....
Even with that, the tool won't flatten the pins completely. I finish by hand peening them some more with a small ball peen hammer, until I get them to my liking .....
I have the breaker/rivet tool, probably the same style you do .....
..... but as I mentioned, I don't use it for breaking the chain. The diameter of the pin for use on the cam chain is just so tiny. I only use the tool to rivet the new master link. I found that the riveting pin was prone to slipping off the master link pin as you tightened the tool down. That would mash the end of the master link pin down unevenly and on only one side. I found a "fix" for that, I tap a light "X" cut into the end of the pin 1st with a small sharp chisel. That holds the riveting pin in place so it doesn't slide off to the side .....
Even with that, the tool won't flatten the pins completely. I finish by hand peening them some more with a small ball peen hammer, until I get them to my liking .....
Want to report that the cam chain and guide install was success! The 35 year old gaskets were the most time consuming job on the entire task. Got the guide and cam centered. I am also glad to see more than 2 threads left showing after i adjusted the tensioner, screwed in the lock nut and put on the cap. The old chain must of been some loose to see more that 1" of threads sticking out after its been adjusted. Still got the gaskets to remove from the cam covers, then install oil seal and o ring. Thanks for all thr tips guys.!
Ohh and one more thing....great tip on utting on a few 1/2" sockets and some washers to seat the gaskets enough to put the chain together on the cam sprocket. It worked like a charm!!!
