Cam chain sticking out

hjpaul7

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So I was syncing my carbs and in the middle of it the bike died, I ran out of gas. Filled it up and it won't start. I did notice the can chain adjustment acorn but was left off when I put the carbs back on and the threads were sticking way out. Put the but back on and still can't start it. Now it won't kick at all either. It just kicks back or doesn't budge. I tried to turn the rotor to check the cam but now the rotor but just losens off.
Tips?

Before I screwed up I:

Replaced plugs, wires, condesnor, points, coils. Can chain adjustment, valves, ignition timing and cleaned carbs.
 
Last edited:
I'd say 20 minutes, no more than 30. I got the nut for the alternator back on, but the rotor is just stuck. I have to apply lots of force through one spot, then it spins well until it hits that spot again. Kick starter won't budge.
 
Hi hjp7,
the worse case is the absent cam chain adjuster acorn nut let the cam chain get loose enough to jump a tooth or so which means the resistance you feel is a valve hitting a piston.
The really worst case is when she fires like that and punches a valve through a piston head.
Pull the plugs, put the bike on it's centerstand, put the transmission into high gear, gently turn the back wheel and listen for a clunk.
Now you gotta pull the motor, lift the head and pray for minimal damage.
 
I will try that this morning, if I don't hear a clunk, I may be alright? Pulling the engine is out of my leave.

I wonder, could I take the valve covers off to tell as well?
 
Easy way to tell if timing has jumped. Put the rotor at T, then the right side of the cam under the cover onthe head, has a hole for the advancer locating pin. That should be at 6 or 12...if its not it jumped time.
 
Easy way to tell if timing has jumped. Put the rotor at T, then the right side of the cam under the cover onthe head, has a hole for the advancer locating pin. That should be at 6 or 12...if its not it jumped time.

I'll check this as well, would the jump in timing actually stop the rotor from turning?
 
Sigh.....you said it was running for 20 plus minutes while you synced the carbs....thats a long time. Its and air cooled engine. It stays cool from air movement. So either motion or fans blowing on it.
 
I put the bike in 5th gear, put in on the center stand and started to rotate the rear wheel. No clunk, but I could only rotate it about 1/3 of a turn before the wheel stuck/seized.

I can't really align the rotor with the T, it gets stuck right before it. So I tried adjusting the plates for timing and I'm getting nothing.
 
I put the bike in 5th gear, put in on the center stand and started to rotate the rear wheel. No clunk, but I could only rotate it about 1/3 of a turn before the wheel stuck/seized.
I can't really align the rotor with the T, it gets stuck right before it. So I tried adjusting the plates for timing and I'm getting nothing.

Hi hjp7,
that's 1/3rd of a turn on the rear wheel in 5th gear?
That's about 1-3/4 turns on the engine.
Now GENTLY turn the rear wheel backwards until it jams up.
How far this time?
You say pulling the engine is beyond your skill set?
Now's the time to learn because the bike ain't going nowhere like that, eh?
Buy a Clymer's XS650 manual. Yes, you can see one on the list but a paper copy works better. Your local bookstore will bring you in a copy, ~$35.
Buy some wrenches if you don't already have any.
El Cheapos are OK for amateur use or wait for Sears to have a half-price tool sale.
You will need a 3/8" square drive metric socket set. Get a 22mm, a27mm and a 36mm socket as well.
Ditto combination wrenches.
Pliers, vise-grips (exception to the el cheapo rule, only the good quality vise-grips work worth a damn)
And a BFH.
 
Hi hjp7,
that's 1/3rd of a turn on the rear wheel in 5th gear?
That's about 1-3/4 turns on the engine.
Now GENTLY turn the rear wheel backwards until it jams up.
How far this time?
You say pulling the engine is beyond your skill set?
Now's the time to learn because the bike ain't going nowhere like that, eh?
Buy a Clymer's XS650 manual. Yes, you can see one on the list but a paper copy works better. Your local bookstore will bring you in a copy, ~$35.
Buy some wrenches if you don't already have any.
El Cheapos are OK for amateur use or wait for Sears to have a half-price tool sale.
You will need a 3/8" square drive metric socket set. Get a 22mm, a27mm and a 36mm socket as well.
Ditto combination wrenches.
Pliers, vise-grips (exception to the el cheapo rule, only the good quality vise-grips work worth a damn)
And a BFH.

I'd say not even a 1/8 of a turn before it jams. I can order one later this week. I thought I'd see what I can do with timing before I attempt the head. Have some pretty sticky weights on the advance side. Took out the rod, cleaned, greased. Still sticky.

I have most the tools.
 
Ignition timing has nothing to do with it. It sounds like the crank and cam timing are off. As in pistons are hitting valves, hence the stopping. How close can you get it to the t mark? How far before the t, like 1/4 inch?
 
Ignition timing has nothing to do with it. It sounds like the crank and cam timing are off. As in pistons are hitting valves, hence the stopping. How close can you get it to the t mark? How far before the t, like 1/4 inch?

I'd say about 0.5 of a centimeter.
 
Definetly sounds like it jumped a few teeth. Where abouts is the advance unit locating pin facing? If the rotor mark is .5 away from t, that hole on the end of the cam should be getting close to 6 or 12 oclock, if its way off, then the head is coming off.
 
Not 100% sure what the advanced pin is, but this is what I have
 

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Take that whole advance unit off. Once off, therr is a little pin in the end of the cam. And dont lose the pin. But i want to know where that pin is facing.
 
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