Frank, a simple compression test may tell the whole story. If you don't have compression don't bother with the leak down test because the top end will need to come down anyway, and you'll learn all you need to know when it's apart.
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Carbs sharbs!!!!!!! Help!
- Thread starter frank
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- carburetors
Frank, maybe take a look at this too: Bike wont start?, Running rough?
frank
XS650 Enthusiast
Alright thanks for the info i will give it a shot and report back!
frank
XS650 Enthusiast
Alright! The rod is lubed and put back in place correctly i hope! I pull the advances and it snaps back beautifully! Now just waiting for my carbs to be cleaned and reassembly begins!
Pennies Earned
XS650 Enthusiast
I'm having an issue getting my rod out. Here is a photo of how it looks now where do I go from here. I figured it would just pull out from here but no dice.
Pull the rod out from the points side. Leave the points cam undisturbed and still attached to the rod. The points cam has a little lip around the bottom that will hang up on the points sets rubbing blocks so you will need to pry the points open slightly to pull the rod out past them.
Make sure you don't lose that little locating pin. You might want to remove it from the rod before you pull the rod out. You've disassembled more than needed (the weights can stay on the pivots) but since you did, clean the pivot posts and holes in the weights and lightly grease. There should be a thin steel shim washer on each post under the weight. Try not to lose those. Sometimes they stick to the back of the weight when you remove it. Check for them there.
Make sure you don't lose that little locating pin. You might want to remove it from the rod before you pull the rod out. You've disassembled more than needed (the weights can stay on the pivots) but since you did, clean the pivot posts and holes in the weights and lightly grease. There should be a thin steel shim washer on each post under the weight. Try not to lose those. Sometimes they stick to the back of the weight when you remove it. Check for them there.
Pennies Earned
XS650 Enthusiast
You guys are the shit...thanks for all the help. Hopefully Frank and I will be riding in no time. Also do I grease the entire shaft or just the ends? And the locating clip, are you referring to the little thing sticking out on the advance side? If thats not what you were referring to I'm not sure I saw a clip
You can smear the entire rod with grease to keep it from rusting, just a very light film, make it look "wet". There's no "lube" effect there because the rod only touches bushings on both ends, you're just protecting it from rust. What you're really lubing is those bushings in the cam ends. If you look at the outer one on each side, you'll see it has grooves cut on the I.D. Clean those out and fill them with grease. That will give the rod a reservoir of lube for many years to come. You probably only need to do this like every 5 to 10 years.
The locating pin is a little chrome pin sticking out the side of the rod. I can see it in your pic. You need that to properly locate the disc on the rod and lock it from spinning. This also locks in your timing correctly. Read through that link I posted a few posts back. That explains the correct install for proper timing. If you screw this up, you can throw your timing 180° off.
This advance rod servicing was never mentioned in any of the Yamaha service manuals. Granted, it doesn't need to be done very often but due to their age, all these bikes are ready for it now. I guess Yamaha didn't figure they'd be around this long, lol.
The locating pin is a little chrome pin sticking out the side of the rod. I can see it in your pic. You need that to properly locate the disc on the rod and lock it from spinning. This also locks in your timing correctly. Read through that link I posted a few posts back. That explains the correct install for proper timing. If you screw this up, you can throw your timing 180° off.
This advance rod servicing was never mentioned in any of the Yamaha service manuals. Granted, it doesn't need to be done very often but due to their age, all these bikes are ready for it now. I guess Yamaha didn't figure they'd be around this long, lol.
Kinda off topic now since I think his problem may be elsewhere, but, a leak down test can tell you whats wrong before you tear down, and could tell you something you cant see once it is torn down. Bent valves dont always appear bent.....
Craig
frank
XS650 Enthusiast
Yeah pennies these guys are bad ass! I OWE EVERTHING I DID TO MY BIKE AS FAR AS REPAIRS GO TO THEM! THANKS FOR EVERYTHING FELLAS! I'm sure ill be posting again real soon!
Right, Craig, bent valves don't always look bent--one of the many reasons why God made dial indicators. Remove valve spring, secure head, attach lapping stick to valve, set up dial indicator perpendicular to valve stem, rotate valve, observe runout.
That it is. But you corrected me with the claim that a leak down test could find trouble that may not be found in a tear down--only true if somebody isn't looking very hard or doesn't know what to look for. BTW, the usual procedure is to fill the port and look for leakage around the edge of the valve.
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