5Twins, Outstanding on the point advance question. I have mine retarded a bit. I see the bike loads up the plugs when idling but burns perfect at speed.
I set/ check my dwell @ 22.5. (or set gaps to .012 to .016, I used .012 with the new chain to get point plate to fall in. It was Jim or you that said to try a smaller setting?) Check the timing chain adjuster. I pull the plugs and rotate the right cylinder CCW coming up on compression stroke.
I ground one lead of my test light and the other lead to right Cylinder points. Turn on the ignition. I rotate the engine CCW until the timing mark hits center of the "F" and the light just lights. If it doesn't light, I loosen the two point plate screws ( big ones ) and turn the whole plate till it does. Lock it down, rotate the engine, using the Alt nut, CW till the light goes out. The rotate back CCW and the light should come on at center "F". IF good, rotate engine 1 turn to put #2 cylinder coming up on compression. Switch the test light lead to bottom point set and rotate engine CCW to bring the mark to middle of the "F". If light doesn't light, with timing mark @ "F" , loosen the right and left bottom point plate screws and nudge the plate till the light just comes on. Lock down the plate, rotate the engine CW till the light goes out and then CCW till the light just comes on when timing mark hits middle of "F". If your advance unit is good, when you check it with a timing light both Cylinders will be dead on center of the "F". You always want to back off CW on the crankshaft and come back to the mark CCW to keep the timing chain taught. This is what makes this method accurate. Easy but hard to type out!
Thu
I set/ check my dwell @ 22.5. (or set gaps to .012 to .016, I used .012 with the new chain to get point plate to fall in. It was Jim or you that said to try a smaller setting?) Check the timing chain adjuster. I pull the plugs and rotate the right cylinder CCW coming up on compression stroke.
I ground one lead of my test light and the other lead to right Cylinder points. Turn on the ignition. I rotate the engine CCW until the timing mark hits center of the "F" and the light just lights. If it doesn't light, I loosen the two point plate screws ( big ones ) and turn the whole plate till it does. Lock it down, rotate the engine, using the Alt nut, CW till the light goes out. The rotate back CCW and the light should come on at center "F". IF good, rotate engine 1 turn to put #2 cylinder coming up on compression. Switch the test light lead to bottom point set and rotate engine CCW to bring the mark to middle of the "F". If light doesn't light, with timing mark @ "F" , loosen the right and left bottom point plate screws and nudge the plate till the light just comes on. Lock down the plate, rotate the engine CW till the light goes out and then CCW till the light just comes on when timing mark hits middle of "F". If your advance unit is good, when you check it with a timing light both Cylinders will be dead on center of the "F". You always want to back off CW on the crankshaft and come back to the mark CCW to keep the timing chain taught. This is what makes this method accurate. Easy but hard to type out!
Thu