Dropped side cover, now she won't charge

[Jim]

That pin's on the rotor shaft, which I haven't removed. So I can't imagine it's slipping. And it'd have to be slipping 100% to produce 0 output, which is what I'm getting. Or, not getting.

Nope... There's also a pin and slot arangement on the stator and engine case. A small slot in the stator and a pin sticking out on the cases. I'll venture as to say that if you didn't know that (you didn't) then you prolly didn't get it slotted correctly.

 

[Adamc]

That pin's on the rotor shaft, which I haven't removed. So I can't imagine it's slipping. And it'd have to be slipping 100% to produce 0 output, which is what I'm getting. Or, not getting.

Jim is correct, the pin is on the stator and slots into a cut out on the casing.
I had a similar issue with mine. Re checked and reset the pin in the slot.
all ok after that.

 

[Jim]

That pin's on the rotor shaft

Jus' so's we all get smarter, the rotor shaft, which is actually the crankshaft, doesn't actually have a slot, it's called a "Keyway." Between that shaft and the rotor there's a "Woodruff Key".... not a pin.

 

[jpdevol]

There are only two tests for the rotor -- resistance between the two rings and resistance between each ring and the rotor's core. All check out. Still, it flunks the wrench test (no magnetism).

So you're getting ~5 Ohms ring>ring & OL to Ring>core......

If no magnetism then perhaps it's not getting energized via the regulator..... What year is it?/ what color brush wires?

 

[freddy3]

Nope... There's also a pin and slot arangement on the stator and engine case. A small slot in the stator and a pin sticking out on the cases. I'll venture as to say that if you didn't know that (you didn't) then you prolly didn't get it slotted correctly.

Thanks and I can check it tomorrow, but since the NOS stator didn't behave any differently than the original, I don't think it's a key or slippage issue.
That said, I took photos of the stator before removal to be sure the new one went on in the exact same position. It did.

 

[freddy3]

Jim is correct, the pin is on the stator and slots into a cut out on the casing.
I had a similar issue with mine. Re checked and reset the pin in the slot.
all ok after that.

Was your alternator producing 0 output before resetting the pin in the slot?
Again, the stator's held in place by two large screws, so it cannot slip. I reckon that pin is simply there to be sure you don't install the stator upside-down or similar.

 

[freddy3]

Jus' so's we all get smarter, the rotor shaft, which is actually the crankshaft, doesn't actually have a slot, it's called a "Keyway." Between that shaft and the rotor there's a "Woodruff Key".... not a pin.

Yes, that's in the service manual.

 

[Jim]

Thanks and I can check it tomorrow, but since the NOS stator didn't behave any differently than the original, I don't think it's a key or slippage issue.

Nothing to do with slipping... if the stator is resting "on" the pin, it's not sitting flush... it's cocked slightly and can possibly let the rotor rub against it.
And trust me... getting the slot to slot around the pin can be aggravating at times... it doesn't like to naturally just fit. If you didn't know it was there, the odds of "accidentally" getting it slotted are pretty low. Unless you're a hell of a lot luckier than me, it's prolly not slotted.

 

[freddy3]

So you're getting ~5 Ohms ring>ring & OL to Ring>core......

If no magnetism then perhaps it's not getting energized via the regulator..... What year is it?/ what color brush wires?

1972 XS2.

 

[Jim]

I reckon that pin is simply there to be sure you don't install the stator upside-down

It's more important than you reckon.... The ignition timing marks are on the stator. So the stator has to be an "exact fit" or you'll never get ignition timing correct.

 

[jpdevol]

So - counterintuitively - that (red) wire to the inner brush should be grounded (OEM wire color is black there). The green wire going to the outer brush must carry 12VDC. and all that is what energizes the rotor and produces magnetism.....

 

[freddy3]

Nothing to do with slipping... if the stator is resting "on" the pin, it's not sitting flush... it's cocked slightly and can possibly let the rotor rub against it.
And trust me... getting the slot to fit in the pin can be aggravating at times... it doesn't like to naturally just fit. If you didn't know it was there, the odds of "accidentally" getting it slotted are pretty low. Unless you're a hell of a lot luckier than me, it's prolly not slotted.

I get what you're saying, but since the problem (0 output from the alternator) began with the original stator and was unaffected with the installation of the NOS stator....well, it just doesn't follow logically. But I could be wrong.

 

[freddy3]

It's more important than you reckon.... The ignition timing marks are on the stator. So the stator has to be an "exact fit" or you'll never get ignition timing correct.

Could terrible timing produce 0 output from the alternator?

 

[freddy3]

So - counterintuitively - that (red) wire to the inner brush should be grounded (OEM wire color is black there). The green wire going to the outer brush must carry 12VDC. and all that is what energizes the rotor and produces magnetism.....

Yes, but for some reason, it's not... And therein lies the $64,000 question: What's the faulty component? I think the only thing I haven't done any testing on is the regulator.

 

[Jim]

I get what you're saying, but since the problem (0 output from the alternator) began with the original stator and was unaffected with the installation of the NOS stator....well, it just doesn't follow logically. But I could be wrong.

Could terrible timing produce 0 output from the alternator?

Can being argumentative get you more help? That gonna fix your problem?

Good luck to ya... I'm out.

 

[freddy3]

Can being argumentative get you more help? That gonna fix your problem?

Good luck to ya... I'm out.

Questions = argumentative? Sorry if I inconvenienced you.

 

[jpdevol]

Yes, but for some reason, it's not... And therein lies the $64,000 question: What's the faulty component? I think the only thing I haven't done any testing on is the regulator.

If it's the original mechanical regulator there are some resistance specs in the manual. The practical test is checking for 12VDC on that green wire...or bypassing it with a jumper wire to apply 12VDC to see if ya get magnetism.

 

[freddy3]

If it's the original mechanical regulator there are some resistance specs in the manual. The practical test is checking for 12VDC on that green wire...or bypassing it with a jumper wire to apply 12VDC to see if ya get magnetism.

If it doesn't rain tomorrow evening, I'll try to check for 12VDC at that green wire. Thanks!
The reason I haven't checked the regulator is that it appears to require a bit more work than I'm able to do in the dark and without drawing too much attention from the Karens. The other checks pretty much amounted to disconnecting a plastic connector and probing contacts, which I can do without attracting too much attention. I could be mistaken, but I think the regulator checks involve some disassembly and shorting of wires and that comes with too much risk in a public parking lot where there's "No working on vehicles in parking lot.".

 

[Jim]

Questions = argumentative? Sorry if I inconvenienced you.

Well just for an example... you stated you didn't think getting the stator exact was important. Just make sure it's not upside down was you response I believe.
So I explained why it was critical to get it right.
You response was a bit of snark about timing not being the problem.

So yeah, questions are fine... even a bit of bullshit is fine... twisting answers ain't.

 

[freddy3]

bypassing it with a jumper wire to apply 12VDC to see if ya get magnetism.

Do you mean running a jumper wire from the battery + to the screw the green wire's connected to on the stator?