How to: one stop, step by step starter delete

[tmb99]

I'll start by saying I'm not writing anything new, just accumulating what is already out there into one easy to read post. To pay homage I quoted everyone I could. This is for the freeze plug method. I'm not sure who first figured this out, but props to Punkskalar and 5twins for the good tech here.

1. Drain the oil, get as much out as you can tipping side to side.

2. Remove the starter - 4 x 13mm bolts. May need to tap it gently if it doesn't fall straight off.

3. Move to the left side and open up the compartment just below the countershaft sprocket: 6 x 10mm bolts. I was able to get this off without removing clutch cover or anything else. To try and break it evenly and keep the gasket together, once all the bolts were out I simply used a long drift and tapped that plate from the inside, my gasket stayed intact If it tears here is the mikes part no.

gear train cover gasket part #18-0859 from mikes.

4. Remove stuff. 5twins gave an excellent description of what could be removed;

while in there, you'll remove the double gear and it's little shaft on the left (they just pull out) .....

You'll be left with an empty housing something like this except your block-off plug will be installed where the starter used to be .....

You can remove parts 15-22 from under the little cover (#23) on the left side and parts 1-9 from under the right side engine cover. Parts 10-14 must stay unless you split the crankcase .....

None of these parts absolutely have to be removed but if you're looking for the most you can remove, this is it.

5. Remove seal. When I got to this point I was wondering about the starter seal - clearly visible in 5twins centre pic. I came back to the forum did some searching and found this;

Nope, tear out that old hard seal, and punch in the new freeze plug. I put them in from the backside, so the "dome" is facing out...

6. Plug it up. As Hugh mentioned just above punch in a freeze plug (about $1) to seal it up, dome facing out towards where the starter used to be.

1 53/64" expansion plug Dorman part #555-083

General consensus is to put a swipe of grey permatex on the plug, but it should hold itself in there when punched in.

7. Bolt the cover back on and fill with oil, check for leaks.

As to weight saving, somewhere around 5 to 7lbs depending on who you listen to - I haven't weighted it, and seeing as I'm Australian lbs means nothing to me!

Hope this helps someone as the info was pulled from 4 different threads and some from chopcult.

 

[XSLeo]

Good write up. I don't see the purpose myself, I like the E-start.
Leo

 

[tmb99]

Haha the same point came up in all the other threads about this. I should've summarized that as well;

1. You can run no battery (capacitor instead) or tiny little Lithium batteries like the ballistic or Shorai options.
2. Cut weight. Not many would really need this but it sounds good. I'll weigh all my stuff tonight and update the original post
3. Simplify the wiring and clean handlebars

In my case the P/O cut the wiring off flush on the starter with what looks like a grinder! So now I run a tiny battery and kick, kick, kick.

 

[troopthrowback]

Okay, so what's the best method for "punching in" that Dorman freeze plug while the motor is in the frame? Can't get it in a press... I'm inclined to try the heated case/cold bearing method, but the fit seems tighter than the expansion/contraction methos would allow. That, and yamabond doesn't like torch heat.

Any ideas for what tool might work?

 

[Paulrxs650]

I put my plug in the freezer then used a socket that fit in the plug and tap tap tap. Job done

 

[troopthrowback]

Ill need to source a properly sized socket. I'm just trying to make do with inadequate tools. That's what friends are for!

 

[troopthrowback]

Got it done today. Stressing over nothing! All about the proper sized "drift". A 1 5/16" socket plus an 8" extension and some hondabond=done!

 

[jtfield]

I want to keep the starter in my build however delete the battery and all other necessary wiring, using the kick starter as the main method of starting the bike. Reason why I am keeping the starter attached is I want to be able to “jump start” the bike if necessary by installing jumper posts for this, say if the weather is too cold and doesn’t want to start by kicking over and over tiring me out. Or if it needs a bit more encouragement during the first fire up if kick starting it isn’t enough. I know this may sound dumb but how about your thoughts people? What is absolutely necessary for the starter to work?

 

[Pat D]

I want to keep the starter in my build however delete the battery and all other necessary wiring, using the kick starter as the main method of starting the bike. Reason why I am keeping the starter attached is I want to be able to "jump start"the bike if necessary by installing jumper posts for this, say if the weather is too cold and doesn't want to start by kicking over and over tiring me out. Or if it needs a bit more encouragement during the first fire up if kick starting it isn't enough. I know this may sound dumb but how about your thoughts people? What is absolutely necessary for the starter to work?

At the absolute simplest, just attaching a hand held jump box to a ground and the hot post on the starter will spin it. Some jump boxes are always hot, some have a switch. Or jump from another battery directly to ground and hot post on starter.

 

[jtfield]

Cool sounds like it will work perfectly!