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Paul, Led's are getting better, but some still suck. The red ones suck! Shining a red light through a red lense has considerable losses. The one shown on line #19 is a Sylvania, I think. I bought it at an Advance Auto Store, (don't think you have those in the UK), but it is super bright and a big/noticable difference between run and brake. Jet mech Marty rode with me one day and mentioned that it works great! If it's not a Sylvania, I'll get back to you.I recently tried two LED replacements for the 1157 filament bulbs:
View attachment 106393
The one on the left is a red unit and was very poor in brightness and had little difference between tail and brake mode. The one on the right is very bright and described as "Motorcycle Car COB LED Brake Tail Light Fog Lamp Bulbs Super Bright Pink" on Ebay and cost £1.64 each including postage. Although it is bright it shows very little difference between Tail and Brake mode. This can be improved by putting approximately 50 Ohms resistance in the tail light circuit and then the brightness performance is very similar to a 1157 bulb. I do not really want to cut into the harness to add resistors....
.....Is this poor brightness differentiation between tail and brake mode quite general with LEDs??
I also tried the following £5.84 H4 LED:
View attachment 106394
Although it claims to have both Hi and Low beam it seems this is purely the result of a resistor in the low setting. No actual dip of the beam took place. The beam was also very poor in shape. Perhaps I was unlucky??? This LED unit will now become a spotlight for working in my garage at home.
Hey, guys, is it me? But adding resistors to LED's is counter productive, is it not? A good LED should: 1) increase brightness, 2) reduce load, and 3) last longer. #2 and #3, at the very least. AND, this is 2019, every house has a box with millions of liquid crystals and/or LED's on flat screens to create fantastically clear 4K images from signals that stream through the atmosphere at the speed of light, (slightly less), so there's gotta be a regulator that can hold an overvoltage at a constant level +/- a few 10ths of a volt.
Sorry, I'm no genius, but this thread seems to be dragging on. Sorry, I'm in a mood. I'm old, leave me alone! Lol!
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