Just another first build.

[Rd51]

Little bit of progress today. I had to work late so I didn't get to the engine and forks... again. I did notice today the fork tube caps are rounded off pretty bad. I don't feel like re-using them. Ordered some new ones.

A couple misc parts came in. Installed new brake shoes.

Made sure the neutral indicator light would fit where I want to mount it. It fits, but is a hair loose. There are no threads on the other side for a locking nut. I'm thinking I can remove a little material of from the inner part of the rubber grommet that originally came in this hole, and it should keep it nice and snug.

I plan on running the speedo in the same mounting hole on the other side.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

You could try a piece (or more) of heat-shrink tube on the indicator lamp body to get a snug fit.

 

[Rd51]

Finished up work at a reasonable time today.

I Assembled the forks. Waiting on the caps and they will be 100% done.

Continued tearing down the engine. Here's a few pictures I took.

Evidence of the head gasket leaking for quite some time. The sleeves looked good. I forgot to take a close look at the cam chain guide; nothing caught my attention though. Will inspect it later. (I plan on replacing it anyway)

Clutch and starter motor are up next.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Interesting how the ring gaps lined up...

 

[Rd51]

Interesting how the ring gaps lined up...

Maximum compression.

I was fiddling with them before I took the photos. Maybe the stars and planets aligned and I just so happened to line up the rings without noticing it...



Or; just discovered why I had lower compression readings when I first bought the bike. Dun dun dun.

 

[Rd51]

Happy Friday! Finally home enjoying some ice cold Stone IPA's after another week. Looks like I'll be working tomorrow as well. Gotta love overtime.

Anyways, this is the progress I made since the last post.

Dove into the clutch; was happy to see the clutch hub and boss are still in great shape. Those screws were in there super tight. Took a little bit of force even with my impact driver.

Pulled the starter. I was expecting the gears to be all chewed up from the way the starter sounded when I tried using it. Almost tempted to repair the "drag clip/spring" (can't remember the technical name) and run the starter...

Removed the tach drive since I will only be running a speedo.

I began cleaning and prepping the jugs and cylinder head. I've been reading a lot about this subject (painting/powder coating them vs. heat retention) And I've decided that I will not powder coat them. However, I plan on painting the jugs, clutch cover, ignition cover, and valve tappet covers matte black, and leaving the cylinder head bare.

I've noticed in some of Hugh's videos on youtube that his customers engines are powder coated. Now, I do not know Hugh on a personal level, but I can tell he takes pride in his work. This leads me to believe that he would not have an engine powder coated if he felt that the engine would seize soon after leaving his shop.

I could be totally wrong. But that is my justification. I've decided to paint instead of powder coat, so I can personally manage the thickness of coats being applied. I have faith in my prep work that the paint will hold up. Time will tell.

Removed the valves from the head. Began cleaning the gasket surfaces. "Yo" from Contemporary Auto in Huntington beach will be preforming the valve job, as well as checking the piston/jug clearance. We use him for all of our diesel rebuilds. Extremely knowledgeable, and very easy to get along with. I would trust him with my life when it comes to this line of work.

And finally; I posted earlier that I purchased some K & N pods. As twomanyxsb1's pointed out, I should've researched before I purchased. However, I assumed (you know what they say about assuming) that K & N is one of the leaders when it comes to intake systems, and that purchasing their product would mean that I'm getting top quality. But, I understand now they do not function well with these CV carbs.

When it comes to the bike running right, I do not want to chose form over function. But before I give up on these filters, I thought I'd ask a couple questions. I've seen some pictures of other K & N's with a restricting inner lip. I took a look at mine, and I'm not seeing this same lip? I'm aware that even though the lip might not be there, there are other issues (turbulence, etc) that may be a problem. Thought I'd ask.

Have a great weekend everyone!

 

[Rd51]

Spent a little bit of time after work today painting the jugs and prepping the other engine parts for powder coat.

Did 3 coats of satin black from VHT, no primer. First 2 coats were light, flipped the jugs in between coats. Last coast was heavier. Let them dry in the sun for 3 hours, then put them in the oven for two 10 minute sessions. First session preheated to 200, second session preheated to 300. Paint looks and feels good. However the real test will be the elements of everyday use.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Hey, RD51, been study'n your pics, and from what I've been able to see, aside from coupla scratch lines on piston, that engine appears to be in really good shape!

Difficult to remove clutch spring screws? Might be factory-installed unmolested originals. Either way, could check the base of the screwthread, some members reported seeing some stretching there.

Some members have cut clearance notches in their pods, at the location of the upper edge-positioned slide diaphram port.

You were wise to block the cylinders during paint cooking cycles. Those temps will allow cylinder sleeves to loosen, even fall out. Maybe you've done this before?

There were loads of discussions, long ago, on the use of black engine paint to augment cooling. Old formulations, tested way back then, including the then-new VHT, actually acted more like a heat blanket, holding heat in. The only paint we found that shed heat better than raw aluminum was specialty FAA certified engine paint, applied in a controlled method....

 

[Rd51]

You were wise to block the cylinders during paint cooking cycles. Those temps will allow cylinder sleeves to loosen, even fall out. Maybe you've done this before?

I have not painted cylinders before. Blocking the cylinders was a result of exercising proper forum search

 

[Rd51]

Not too much to report on. Finished prepping the engine cases and a few other parts to be powder coated. Bead blasted the cylinder head and cleaned thoroughly (solvent, warm water, contact cleaner w/ air) two times. The aluminum does look nice freshly bead blasted. I will be running the cylinder head bare. Tempted to leave the cylinders bare now...

Haha I can never make up my mind. Thought about possibly anodizing the cylinders black? I like how the paint looks but little chips from road use a year or so down the road are going to drive me crazy.

 

[Rd51]

Removed a few other engine parts for powder coating. I was looking at someone's build who a few days ago who accented the engine with black parts; really liked the idea. (thanks to whomever it was!)

Removed the rocker arms from the valve cover. I feel obliged to show everyone the jerry rig I did to get these out... I couldn't help but chuckle at myself.

Am I still allowed to be on this forum? I used a nut for a spacer, washer to push up against the valve cover. I'd thread the bolt it until it bottomed out, then add another "spacer", continue threading till it bottomed out again, repeat repeat. Which worked until the slug was flush with the valve cover, so I used a large nut to press against the cover while allowing the slug to slide out in the middle of it.

About as sophisticated my ingenuity gets...Haha

Bead blasted the valve cover.

Started chasing all threads. Quick question, anyone know the tap I need for the chain guide fittings? (the ones that hold the bolts) Is it 10mm X 1.25? I recall that being the pitch but I may be mistaken. As well as the tap for the spark plug holes.

Thanks everyone!

 

[xs650dreamer]

hey man keep up the good work cant wait to see the frame

 

[Signal]

The motor should look good, there are a lot of decisions to make about what to paint or polish. If you need more inspiration there are some beautifully detailed engines on this site and over on Do The Ton.
Just went out and measured; spark plug (14 x 1.25), cam chain guide bolt bush (12 x 1.25).

 

[Rd51]

hey man keep up the good work cant wait to see the frame

Thanks guy, appreciate it!

I can't express how eager I am to get the frame back and get the bike to be a roller. It has been at the fab shop for almost a month now. Soon after I dropped it off one of their guys had to get ear surgery, but I talked to them today and they are expecting it to be finished next week.

Sucks not knowing how to weld, maybe one day!

 

[Rd51]

The motor should look good, there are a lot of decisions to make about what to paint or polish. If you need more inspiration there are some beautifully detailed engines on this site and over on Do The Ton.
Just went out and measured; spark plug (14 x 1.25), cam chain guide bolt bush (12 x 1.25).

Yes I'm finding that out very quickly! Thank you for the suggestions and thanks for the info! Going to an industrial hardware store tomorrow to pick up those taps and some other goodies for the build.

 

[Rd51]

Hope everyone had a great weekend. Went to an industrial hardware store on Saturday and picked up some misc hardware for the bike (nylon nuts for axles, stainless steel bolts for covers, taps) I swear I can spend hours in that place.

I spent Saturday night dressed as Danny Zuko from Grease and my lady as Sandy Olsson it was a fun night.

Anyways, today I got a call from the fabricators shop and got to take a peak at my frame! It has a lot more rust on it now than it did when I dropped it off. Here's what has been done so far.

The hole left from cutting off the steering stem lock is gone now.

The seat pan from counter balance cycles only has two places in the back to bolt the pan down. Added two more in the front, 4 mounting tabs, and lowered the part of the pan that sits over the rear gas tank mount slightly.

Mounting tabs for the new coil underneath the tank.

Still on the to do list: mounting tabs for all four blinkers, rear taillight, and electronics pan. Dropped of the seat pan and the other engine parts I've been prepping for powder coat.

Some goodies came in the mail FINALLY finished the forks. I was sweating bullets installing those fork tube caps. It takes some finesse to get those caps started without stripping them. Added 170cc of fork oil. Can't remember what viscosity and I don't feel like checking right now haha.

Because I was bored and I'm really excited to see a roller.

Vales, guides, and seals showed up from Mikes today. I ordered the O-rings for the valve guides today from Yamaha. Should be here tomorrow. I plan on re-using the retainers and springs. I got my Clymer manual in the mail today, so I'll give "Yo" all the specs he needs to make sure everything is happy. He won't have it any other way.

That's all for now!

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Here's some handy info on valve guides:

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27318
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28043
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28924

And follow the 'related threads' below them...

 

[peanut]

that sure is a scruffy bike !

just kiddin Rd us Brits have a weird sense of humour I'm afraid.

Its flippin emmaculate for 35 years old . You can see its never seen rain

I've only just found this thread so I'm gonna get some coffee and sit down for a good read though

 

[Paulrxs650]

Hi RD - really good read and well done on the build

 

[peanut]

I

My technique for lifting the engine out. A-frame with a come-along winch.

you could do with welding a couple of gussets to the top tube at each corner to brace the frame and strengthen the top tube against bending. Lucky that didn't collapse sideways to be honest .