MikesXS Rear Brake Light Switch, anyone having problems with it?

[lexlax]

Just bought a new rear brake light switch from mikes, and its this one https://www.mikesxs.net/product/12-0009.html

I've narrowed my electrical problems to be from that switch.
Basically it's grounding out or shorting, took off the switch, and wired it without it, and then I've been having no problems. I would like to have a working brake light switch.

So my question is, does anyone else have problems with it?

Also does anyone know of a switch relatively the same size that is even better to use?

 

[XSLeo]

I have never used that switch.
That switch can only effect how the brake light works. What issues are you having?
Use your meter on the low ohm scale, hook the meter leads to the wires of the switch. Pull the spring. You should get a low ohm reading with the spring pulled. No reading without.
Leo

 

[DIRTY DOG]

I'm with xsleo it's a passthrough switch it works or it don't, nothing there to short out

 

[JayR]

Lexlax I bought the same exact rear brake switch from Mikes this week. So I just ran out to the garage and plugged it into my new harness, gave it a tug, and it works AOK. Other electrical seems good too.

My problem is that the spring is too long to activate the switch when the rear brake pedal is pushed down. I might be missing some mounting hardware, or there is maybe another adjustment that will tighten up the travel/action. I don't want to divert your thread though and will ask in a new one.

 

[XSLeo]

You use the two nuts to adjust the switch in the bracket. Just adjust it so there is very little play in the spring. You want to have the spring pull the plunger in the switch with just a bit of pedal movement.
I guess you could try shortening the spring, but you shouldn't need to. there is plenty of adjustment.
Hmm unless you have the pedal height adjusted wrong. Your repair manual should have it in there.
Leo

 

[JayR]

Thanks XSLeo. My situation is that when I place the switch as far back as possible in the mounting bracket, the switch is still way too close when the spring is attached. The soring bunches up on itself, and there is no rearward adjustment space left.

 

[XSLeo]

Well try shortening the spring. Cut it back and make a new loop to hook it to the switch. The longer straight end.
Leo

 

[lexlax]

Well I've changed my battery, triple checked my wiring, and when I run my headlight and tailight on (it's all connected to one switch) the bike doesnt charge and will die and drain the battery, only when the switch is on.

Now I have ridden my bike 40 miles without the headlight and taillight on during the day and the bike will run fine.

Took off the rear brake switch wired it without it on and it doesnt have that charging issue.

So I'm pretty sure I narrowed it down to that switch.

I am using this diagram except with a battery.

Did some research on it, and found a thread made by Hugh himself saying that this part sucks too.
http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2466

It's in the middle of the first post.

"MikesXS.com - Rear Brake switch. It will somehow ground out internally (even though it is plastic????), and you'll never find it until your battery is always dead, and after charging you touch the return spring on the switch and leave most of your skin on it from it being so damned hot. I used a brass one from an early Honda, with no problems to date. "

The way he describes it, is exactly whats been happening to me.

 

[JayR]

Thanks lexlax now that I have mine on the bike i will be watching it very closely.

 

[Capt_Zoom]

Yep. I found my MikesXS brake switch was broken in half. needless to say I replaced with OEM. Much better quality.

 

[Scrambled]

Thanks XSLeo. My situation is that when I place the switch as far back as possible in the mounting bracket, the switch is still way too close when the spring is attached. The soring bunches up on itself, and there is no rearward adjustment space left.

I just used the spring off of the switch I replaced . The other minor problem with the Mike's switch is the wires are a bit short, they do not reach the clip on the frame that holds them .

 

[Scrambled]

Yep. I found my MikesXS brake switch was broken in half. needless to say I replaced with OEM. Much better quality.

My old switch broke in two, the replacement from Mike's looks better , has a steel plunger instead of plastic and just "feels " better , like the end cap seems to be made of less brittle plastic.

 

[JayR]

I just used the spring off of the switch I replaced . The other minor problem with the Mike's switch is the wires are a bit short, they do not reach the clip on the frame that holds them .

Hey scrambler thanks. I bought it w/o the switch among other things so I wasn't sure if there was some sort of other housing for the switch. I looked at all the fische I could on boat.net etc. but I couldn't find a good illustration. Anyway I shortened the mikes spring so it operates. That was among my first Mikes purchases, so I should probably look for OEM when possible. Where's good - boat.net?

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Yep, ran into one of those long ago. Internally, one of the contacts would make an intermittant connection to the metal plunger shaft, and current would travel thru the spring, to the brake lever, then to ground. A maddening experience...