Need some advice on paint

Crab_Cake

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So my summer quarter is ending soon and I will finally have some free time. I am planning on painting my bike.

I have decided to paint the bike white with an orange, blue, or red racing stripe. I am leaning towards a creamy orange right now.

Anyways I know a little bit about paint and I am planning to just rattlecan the whole thing. My question has to do with the front and rear fenders. I really don't like the look of the chrome and I want to paint them.

So my question is how do I remove the chrome so that I can paint? Would it be simpler or even possible to buy a non-chromed version?

Thanks for the advice. :thumbsup:
 
- if you clean as much of the crud off them as you can an electroplater may remove the chrome for you...they dont really like doing this as it contaminates their tanks
- hydrochloric acid will remove the chrome, nitric acid the nickel underneath and the copper, if there, with an ammonia based stripper...be aware that the process creates toxic products...be protected
- sandblasting
- you could also sand it although its difficult to get an even finish and get it all off

- degrease completely and scrub thoroughly with detergent
- mix 1 cup of Muriatic acid with 3 gallons of water in a plastic bucket. NOTE; ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER. NEVER WATER TO ACID !!! (It WILL explode)
- hang two or three copper wires (#12 or larger) around sides of bucket
- connect these to ground of battery charger
- hang item to be dechromed in fluid with positive lead connected ... be sure part doesn"t touch ground wires
- within a few seconds or minutes, depending on thickness of chrome, it should come clean ... more or less time as required
- wash parts in mild soda water solution to neutralize acid...immediately to prevent rust
- acid is caustic, handle with care...gas products are generated too
 
Mike's does sell a painted front fender with integral fork brace. Yamaha did make a couple of models with painted fenders that sometimes show up on E-bay.
There are those who say that prepping the fender (chrome) with 400 grit and then hitting it with "self-etching" primer will work. ????? I chose this route just to get the bike "presentable" for riding this summer. Not enough miles or hours to say......
Long range plans call for a Mike's front and an E-bay rear.
 
Epoxy primer works well when painting chrome items. But you cannot rattle can epoxy primer. To get the best solution, you sand off the chrome. Painting over nickel works fairly well, again especially with epoxy. I have bumpers that I sanded and painted over 20 years ago that still are doing good, using this procedure.
 
Sand chrome with 80!! 400 wont do jack.... and +1 on what Pete said, a good Epoxy (REAL epoxy) like DP over an 80 grit scratch will hold great. But you cant get REAL epoxy in a spraycan, no matter what it says on the label.....

Inxs...that dechroming method sounds interesting. Ive heard of it before but never knew the details....Where abouts could I go about finding this muriatic acid??? My ironhead is waaayyyy too shiny!

Craig
 
Oh, and that "self-etch" in a spray can is misleading also. It contains acid, but only enough to "say" it contains acid. Still nothing like the real deal.....Not trying to pick apart your post, jetero, just putting it out there cause I know better.....

Craig
 
Best way to paint over chrome is to hit it with 80 grit sand paper on a da that gives you good tooth for the paint to stick to. you will have to give it a couple coats of primer and sand that down before you paint it to get rid of the 80 grit scratches. I painted my chrome front fender 5 years ago and it does not ever have one chip in it.
 
- if you clean as much of the crud off them as you can an electroplater may remove the chrome for you...they dont really like doing this as it contaminates their tanks
- hydrochloric acid will remove the chrome, nitric acid the nickel underneath and the copper, if there, with an ammonia based stripper...be aware that the process creates toxic products...be protected
- sandblasting
- you could also sand it although its difficult to get an even finish and get it all off

- degrease completely and scrub thoroughly with detergent
- mix 1 cup of Muriatic acid with 3 gallons of water in a plastic bucket. NOTE; ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER. NEVER WATER TO ACID !!! (It WILL explode)
- hang two or three copper wires (#12 or larger) around sides of bucket
- connect these to ground of battery charger
- hang item to be dechromed in fluid with positive lead connected ... be sure part doesn"t touch ground wires
- within a few seconds or minutes, depending on thickness of chrome, it should come clean ... more or less time as required
- wash parts in mild soda water solution to neutralize acid...immediately to prevent rust
- acid is caustic, handle with care...gas products are generated too
Not for nothing, but what do you do with the waste? I agree with the others. Scratch it up, (80 is a little harsh in my opinion, but) and paint it with epoxy. DP is nice. Forget rattle cans if you can please. Use real paint from a gun. Yes, it costs more, but its worth it.
 
When any of you guys are ready for more epoxy . . try Kirker. It is far better than DP. I have been using it for almost 20 years. It sands in a day or two ( DP can't do that ). It is really nice epoxy primer and reasonably priced.
 
Damn...then Id have to pay for it! The perks of my job are minimal but at least I get some free materials now and then....If you're lookin to fill and sand, why not polyester??

Craig
 
What are you gonna go with? Still rattle-can? Napa usually has the better selection for spray bombs, but find you an independent paint distributor (PPG/Dupont/Sikkens etc), they usually stock the better stuff too, and may be a little more knowledgable. Im sure there are body shops in your area, so there are autobody jobbers as well....

Craig
 
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