Neutral

Stoop22kid

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Can someone please post a picture of what neutral looks like when the cases are split? My pictures got deleted and I can't find neutral for the life of me. I just need to know how to find neutral with the cases split and the transmission in the top case.

Please and thank you so much

Justin
 
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1443699955.103346.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1443699980.236874.jpg

These are the best pictures I can get for now.
 
Try this. Put the shifter on. Then while turning the input or output shaft, start shifting. Remember, its upside down. You will feel the neutral switch detent and/or when one shaft doesn't turn the other. Take your time. Play with it. You'll learn a lot.
Good luck!
 
Every gear I put it in both shafts are turning. Is there only one way to put the shafts on the forks? The manuals I have don't really cover this.
 
When you view the shiftdrum from the clutch side of the engine, rotating the shiftdrum fully counter clockwise will put the trans in 1st. A slight rotation clockwise after that will be neutral.

Make sure you fiddle-rotate the tranny shafts during this so that the dogs/cogs don't jam...
 
Is that with the top case upside down or right side up? I've got the top case upside down now to put everything back together
 
When you view a clock, whether it's rightside up or upside down, counterclockwise is always the same direction.
Same as when unscrewing a bolt...
 
if you remove the neutral switch assembly completely and look down the hole with a torch you should be able to see the neutral countersink hole in the selector drum as it passes the neutral switch position. When you can see that detent in the centre of the switch hole you know the shafts are in the correct relative position for neutral and both shafts should spin freely.:thumbsup:
 
Haha, that one gets me everytime. Some of our American members don't know that a British "torch" is a flashlight. I have this picture in my head of some poor fellow shoving a flaming oxy-acetylene torch in there...

:laugh::laugh::laugh: seperated by a common language :laugh:
 
Ok I just got home and turned my shifter drum fully counter clockwise....then slightly clockwise.....I believe I have found neutral.....but just to make sure....when I spin the sprocket all the gears turn but when I turn the main axle only the 1st 2nd and 3rd wheel gears turn along with the gear on the main axle and 2nd and 3rd pinion gear. Does this sound right? The gears in the picture that DONT have the red line on the DONT move when I turn the main axle.ImageUploadedByTapatalk1443779323.550497.jpg
 
Wow....sometimes I'm amazed by my stupidity haha

don't worry buddy, we all get them from time to time. At least I can usually blame them on my age :laugh:

Its not the cogs that matter its the actual shafts that must be free and independant when the gears are set to neutral . If you hold the imput shaft and output shaft and twist one shaft the other should stay put when in neutral
 
...I believe I have found neutral...

You should have also felt the shiftdrum settle into that neutral detent that peanut mentioned.
The stopper wheel that rides behind the starplate will be sitting atop a pin, instead of between pins.

... when I turn the main axle only the 1st 2nd and 3rd wheel gears turn along with the gear on the main axle and 2nd and 3rd pinion gear. Does this sound right? The gears in the picture that DONT have the red line on the DONT move when I turn the main axle...

Correct. If you study these tranny parts pics, you'll see that 1st (integral part of the mainshaft), 2nd and 3rd (splined to the mainshaft) will always spin with the mainshaft. The 4th and 5th gears simply spin on the mainshaft.

The reverse condition exists on the output shaft, with 1st, 2nd and 3rd simply spinning on the output shaft, with 4th and 5th being splined to the output shaft.
 

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New subject but no need for a new thread. Now I'm trying to find TDC on my rephased crank and cam. So I got it close and put my old stator and rotor back on to see if it would match up and it did ImageUploadedByTapatalk1443938832.670132.jpg
But now the mark on my cam isn't exactly at 12 o'clock like I've read it should be. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1443938974.083827.jpg is that an ok way to find TDC? And do I need to take apart the cam chain and move the cam back one tooth?
 

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the mark on my cam isn't exactly at 12 o'clock View attachment 58111 do I need to take apart the cam chain and move the cam back one tooth?

if your engine is exactly at TDC then yes you are one chain link out on your cam sprocket. Make sure you check TDC with your piston not your crank obviously because your old stator indicator could be wrong. Remove both plugs and put the bike on the stand . Put it in 2nd gear and turn the rear wheel until the piston in the LH cylinder is rocking at its highest point and recheck your cam sprocket mark

You don't have to split your chain though. If you remove your cam shaft bearings both ends you will be able to get enough slack to shift the camchain over one tooth to line up your camshaft at 12 oclock with your crank at TDC
 
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Thanks man. So the old rotor and stator is still good to find TDC?
no.:wink2: I have no idea if the stator you have is correctly marked for your engine which is why you should always use your pistons to check TDC Then check /mark your stator.
The way I check TDC is to slowly bring the piston up on its compression stroke and either use a flashlight or a screwdriver in the sparkplug hole and get the piston to a point where it is at its highest point . That will be near enough for the purpose of checking the alignment of your camshaft sprocket
 
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