No pickup? How to increase acceleration?

xsleo1975

xsleo1975

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Hi guys first I want to thank you for all your help with the electronics, I now get to start my bike on the very first kick.
The bike idles fine, charges fine but when I try to go for a ride I can't get any acceleration, first gear feels week and I can't get it pass 40 mph.
Has anybody had this problem before ?
Thanx Leonardo
 
The bike has points, is a 73 tx650. Stock, I should also mention that at times when kick staring it there is a back kick that could send you flying across the yard, now this doesn't happen all the time and the bikes starts better then it ever has.
I'm really new at this since it is my first bike (bobber build) and now I need to learn about advance ignitions. Is there any videos or reading material I should look at ?
Thank again Leonardo
 
Yes sounds like you need to remove clean and lube your advance rod.
While you are in there look at the advance springs they have a habit of stretching causing poor weight retraction. The weights should snap back in when the points aren't pushing on the points cam.

1. remove points cam
2. slide out advance rod
 
When setting the timing the static timing as described in your repair manual is just to get it to run well enough to set the timing with a timing light. Shoot the timing with the timing light and adjust to get it firing between the two F marks. Now slowly increase the rpms. As you increase the rpms watch the timing marks. The rotor mark should move over to the left. It should start moving just above idle and reach but not go past the max advance mark at about 3000-3200 rpms.
If it moves past the full mark readjust the idle timing retarded a bit. Recheck the full advance. It may take a couple tries to get the full advance to be in spec and still have the idle between the F marks. Even if you have to get the idle timing at the right side F mark it will be fine. I had to get it just to the right of the F marks to get the full within range.
If it doesn't move your advance rod is stuck. You need to remove it and clean the old hard grease off the rod and out of the cam.
Once clean a light coat of grease, A moly grease is what Yamaha recommends, on the rod. If you look in the ends of the cam when clean you will see grooves, fill these groves with grease.
Once you have it clean, greased and reassembled if you pull the advance weights open and release them it should snap shut. If not try shortening one of the springs by cutting off the loop and bending up the first turn of the spring for a loop.
This should make it snap shut. If not try shortening the other spring one loop.
After doing the snap test and you get it snapping shut. shoot the timing again and watch the way it advances. It should move smoothly and stop at full advance at 3000-3200 rpms If it won't open till higher rpms you tightened the springs too much. You can stretch one spring at bit by just pulling it open a bit then refitting and test how it advances.
This spring tension can take some time getting right but necessary.
Getting the timing right will reduce the kick back as well as getting the full power out of the engine.
Leo
 
What Leo says on setting timing, THEN repeat the dance on the other cylinder.
Points wear out also, they pit, (you can file them) and they get loose on the pivot.
The coils get old and no longer make strong spark, wires and plug caps degrade, condensers go bad. Once you start working you should check it all.
 
Wow guys thanks for the fast reply, I'm looking To work on the bike this weekend as I'm trying to grader as much information about the subject , also where do I get a timing light?
 
check craigslist for a timing light too, They are almost antiques now. but $10-15 for one is fairly common. I just saw 30 listings in Chicagoland. and of course Harbor fright.
 
Hey guys I'm back with more questions,(I'm really about to loose my mind)
The other day I started the by to check the vital sings you know charging, carbs lights etc. and it look fine on the charging part a got a good 14+ volts at idle, than I rev up the engine a bit and the bike died so I started again and nothing so I tried A few more times and this really loud pop noyce happend like a back fire pop but then I imidietlly notice gas liking from the left side and realized that the loud pop wasn't a back fire pop but my carb had shot out like a rocket. Need less to say the bike won't start my brand new battery is dead and now I'm out of ideas. All I can think of is starting all over sale it for parts or go to a pro garage.
Thanx for listening
Leonardo.
 
You make no mention about setting the points and lubing the advance rod. Follow leos instructions about setting your timing. the carb blew off because your timing is off. do a goggle search setting points.
 
Thanx scabber, I'm gonna take a few days of from the bike to clear my head and do some research on the timing, I have seen some homemade timing lights but I also wanna get a strobe light to do it right
I have also seen some were that there is a procidure order for the tune up, it seem I have done it all backwards and I think that's the root of my problems
 
Yeah blowing a carb off isn't rare. Sometimes even if everything is right an errant backfire can do the deed.
Cam chain tension, valves set, check advance rod for free movement like scabber sez then timing Using new components if there is any doubt about the condition of what you have. Or a Pamco....
 
I got a new condencer, points and a new reg/rec new battery and I'm thinking about getting new coils as well, I hope ones I go over it one more time I'll get better results, I love this !!!
 
I would check the plug wires they tend to turn green inside the boots and the coil. It will not give you a good spark. You can shorten the old ones to get to good wire and clean the terminals.
 
Quick question about spark plug cables, do I have to use motorcycle specific cables or can I get some at autozone like stores?
 

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