O-ring chain but using a master link help...

[figure8]

So here's the skinny. I bought a new 530 o-ring chain with a "press on" link. The problem being I don't have the correct tool to press the link and flair the pins. So I'm gonna go with a master link instead. So my questions are, should I still be using the o-rings with the link?
Or should I use the original link and pins with the new master link on the flip side? Hoping this is clear but I can elaborate more and provide pics if necessary.

 

[Brassneck]

The best thing to do is get a chain tool...they can be expensive, I know, but it's the best way to go...and it will be done right. You'll likely not use it very often, but you'll have it when you need it.

As to the question...you should use the o-rings provided as that's the way the chain is designed. However, with a clip on master link or rivet type master link, you still need to press the plates...and that's the hard part. (you can get a 4" C clamp, and grind out slots to clear the rivets so you can press the plates together enough to get the clip on to lock.

 

[gggGary]

I dicked around with half ass solutions longer than I should have before buying the tool.

In an unusual step for me I bought the good tool the first try.

motion pro. The good one, cheapest I saw on a quick search was $78 ouch, but read some reviews the $50 motion pro didn't fair so well.

 

[mrtwowheel]

I use the clip type master link with O-rings. I don't use a special tool to press the O-rings. I use a small C-clamp with a nut over the master link pin to receive the pin while I tighten the C-clamp to press the O-rings into place. Works good for me. After using the RK 530XSOZ1 chains on my Honda's, I'll never use any other chain.

Scott

 

[mrtwowheel]

I read the OP again. To use a clip type master link on an O-ring chain you need to buy the specific master link for that specific chain, different brands will vary in widths. Next, those O-rings still need to be pressed into place even though it is a clip type master link.

Scott

 

[cycleranger]

Needle-nose vice grips always worked for me.
However, if I had to do it more often I would get the tool.
HF sells a chain tool that is not as good as the MP tool but is cheaper and reportedly works ok.

 

[grizld1]

Right you are, Scott! You can't play mix-and-match with master links.

I use a riveting tool with the business end removed to press the plate on clip type links, but it's overkill to buy one if that's all you're going to do with it. Just JB Weld a thin 6 mm. nut onto a medium C-clamp. Start the plate with a pair of locking pliers or water pump pliers just far enough to hold it in position, then start working with the C-clamp. Go back and forth between the pins, moving the plate a little at a time until the clip grooves are exposed.

That having been said, IMO the best solution is to buy the riveting tool and use the rivet link that came with the chain.

 

[figure8]

Appreciate the input guys.

Griz, wouldn't I still need to flair the pins? I have a HF chain tool. Can I use that to flair the pins?

 

[fredintoon]

Hi figure8,
so long as you are sure the horseshoe clip-style O-ring master link is compatible with the O-ring chain, all you need is a vise-grip and a hexagon nut just big enough to slip over the link's pin.
Assemble the link through the chain as far as it'll go by hand.
The sideplate needs to be forced down the pins onto the O-rings so the pins horseshoe clip grooves are exposed.
Put the nut over one pin and squeeze the link on with the vise-grip.
One pin then the other in turn, a bit at a time, until the sideplate is fully home.
Snap the horseshoe clip into place and she's done.

 

[grizld1]

I looked up the HF tool; there's not enough detail shown to tell if it would work. You need an anvil that will support the back of the pin while it's being riveted and a dome shaped end on the driver that will the rivet the pins over the plate. The tool looks too light for use on a drive chain. You could use it with driver removed to set the plate if it has an anvil that will support the back of the pin, but it doesn't look like that's the case as far as I can see. I've used a drive chain riveting tool from Mike's XS for many years, and the current offering looks like the same thing. Mike's specifies use on Izumi and DID chains, but I've used it to rivet 520, 525, and 530 Tsubaki and Enumi chains as well. Use the domed end of the driver to rivet, not the punch end, and don't try to break a chain with it unless you've ground the ends off the pins!

 

[figure8]

Hmm, I suppose my other option would be to take the chain to my local repair shop and it have it done there. Of course that's assuming after pulling the clutch push rod that there's enough room in that case to slip the chain on rather than feed it through as I've done so far....

 

[grizld1]

You'd have to remove the countershaft sprocket and rear wheel to install a riveted chain, but you could get it done; slip chain over swingarm, insert sprocket into chain, slip sprocket onto shaft, and reassemble. A DIY option would be to clamp the chain down with the backs of the pins supported on the anvil of a vise or similar and peen the rivet ends down with a punch.

 

[5twins]

I have the MikesXS cam chain breaker/rivet tool. It works well but I would never buy another from them since they have near doubled their price since I got mine. But there's no need to. Pretty much the same tool they sell is available all over eBay for about 1/3 what they charge. Honestly, you should get one .....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/13pc-Chain-...:g:oToAAOSwNyFWeHm-&item=121579662887&vxp=mtr

The rivet pin may wear after much (or improper) use, but the good news is Motion Pro replacements fit and work, and they seem better made. The tip seems to have a bit better shape, slightly more tapered, and rivets better.

I made the mistake of lending mine to the ham-fisted young hammer mechanic down the street. I had used it multiple times and the rivet pin still looked virtually like new. It was all fucked up when I got it back, lol. But, I consider that a blessing in disguise. It prompted me to buy what turned out to be the superior Motion Pro replacement pins (I bought 2 just in case). It also reminded me of a lesson I had learned in the past but apparently forgotten - don't loan your tools out.

 

[warrenlevihursh]

I'm not a fan of the rivet on master links. I will only use these on sport bikes with 150+ hp. There is no need for a rivet on an XS in my opinion. The clip on ones will be just as safe if installed properly. Any Oring 530 masterlink should work with any oring 530 chain I believe. make sure the open end of the clip faces away from the front sprocket when the clip is coming around on the chain in the direction the wheel turns...

 

[grizld1]

What you believe is incorrect. There are variations in clip groove width, clip thickness, and plate thickness. The master link and its components should always be matched to the chain--same chain series from same maker.

5twins, that ebay tool looks similar to the cam chain tool from Mike's, not at all similar to the drive chain tool.

 

[gggGary]

What he sez.
I have run into different pin diameters also, best to stick with a master link from the chain's maker. I am ok with clip type masterlinks also. BUT it took me a while to get the correct clip install technique figured out, do it wrong and the clip may get sprung and fall off in use that never goes well.

 

[5twins]

Yes, the cam chain tool is what I have, but it is made for use on larger chains too. I don't use it for breaking larger chains, just for riveting. And also for pressing the plates on. It comes with press plates by the way. I have a couple ancient ratcheting type chain breakers that I use for breaking. I'll have to get some pics of those, they're pretty cool. What should be mentioned is that whenever breaking a chain, it's best to grind the top off the peened pin flush with the plate before using the breaker .....

Many times, you can just pop the side plate off then and slip the link right out, no need to even use a breaker tool.