PAMCO Ignition System

What was the voltage on the red wire between the E-advancer and sensor plate. Should be 5 volts.
With the Constant sparking it may be a bad part on the sensor plate or a bad part in the e-advancer.
I don't fully understand all the circuitry in the e-advancer. On the sensor plate is a hall effect transistor that is turned on or off as the magnets in the rotor pass by it. The 5 volts to the sensor plate is applied to the Hall Effect transistor. As the magnets turn it on this 5 volts passes through the Hall effect and is sent to trigger the main power transistor in the E-advancer.
If the Hall effect transistor went bad it could have caused the constant spark and when you turned power of and back on it may have finished it off.
Or perhaps the E-advancer had a bad part that caused the same thing.
I think we need to contact Pete on this one.
I'll contact him to relay the info you gave me. You can PM him too.
Leo
 
The red wire after the E Vance was not even one volt down from battery voltage. Think I had 11v. Ya the magnet was not even close to the Hall effect first thing I checked just in case it was somehow triggering it. Like to get it workin have 2 other projects needing one. ;)
 
11 volts battery voltage is a bit low. The red wire between the e-advancer and sensor plate should be 5 volts.
The magnets in the rotor are plenty close to trigger the Hall Effect transistor.
Leo
 
Can anybody tell me what Pete's warranty proceedure is. My Pamco lasted 255 miles. Need a new one ASAP but he hasn't responded to my emails about the warranty, if there is any. he responds about questions on the pamco but not warranty. Getting really frustrated.


Also a couple questions for those in the know:
-On Pete's order page is the plate only option for the original pamco include the sensor?
-Is there any benefits to the new simplified pamco plate and sensor?
-The E-advance will work with the original pamco

-Are stronger coils more robust or less likely to get fried?
 
Hi everyone, new to the forum just trying to get some tech support with the pamco ignition. i have a 74 xs650 with a pma and a pamco ignition high voltage coil ect ect. Ive rewired everything and made sure all my grounds are legit and 12v fused and all wiring is heatshrinked and safe from any heat or anything. my problem is when the bike is running it blows black smoke. very rich and it seems like the motor is firing intermittently side to side. i have brand new mikuni carbs with 130 jets and open pipes and filters. seems like one side goes cold and misfires. im super stumped and could use some advice!!
pamcopete ?? i should also add that the valves and timing chain have been adjusted to spec and the motor is not rephased just stock and thats all i can think of. thanks guys!
 
Last edited:
Capt_Zoom said:
Can anybody tell me what Pete's warranty proceedure is. My Pamco lasted 255 miles. Need a new one ASAP but he hasn't responded to my emails about the warranty, if there is any. he responds about questions on the pamco but not warranty. Getting really frustrated.


Also a couple questions for those in the know:
-On Pete's order page is the plate only option for the original pamco include the sensor?
-Is there any benefits to the new simplified pamco plate and sensor?
-The E-advance will work with the original pamco

-Are stronger coils more robust or less likely to get fried?
Click to expand...

1. Plate only includes the PC board.
2. Must be used with the E-Advancer. Eliminates the mechanical advancer.
3. Yes.

For warranty, try this test first:

Testing the coil:

1. Using the lowest scale on the meter, measure the resistance between the primary terminals with the wires removed. Should read from 2.5 to 4.5 Ohms.
2. Using the highest scale on the meter, measure between one of the primary terminals and the center core of the coil. Should be infinite resistance. (open)
3. Measure between one of the primary terminals and one of the plug wire terminals. Should be infinite resistance. (open circuit)
4. Measure between one of the plug wire terminals and the core of the coil. Should be infinite resistance (open circuit)
5. Measure from one plug terminal to the other. Should be 15,000 to 20,000 Ohms

Testing the PAMCO

1. Use a voltmeter and check for battery voltage on each of the red/white wires with the key and kill switch are turned on.
2. The dual output coil has to have both spark plug wires connected to a spark plug at all times.
3. To test for spark, connect one of the spark plug wires to a spark plug that is grounded to the engine.

To test for spark without having to turn the engine over, do this procedure:
1. Remove the PAMCO rotor.
2. Remove the locating pin in the advance rod.
3. Reinstall the rotor, but without the pin.
4. Replace the nut holding the rotor on loosely. This will allow you to spin the rotor to produce a spark without having to turn the engine over.
5. Connect one of the spark plug wires to a spark plug that is grounded to the engine, but not installed in the engine.
6. Make sure that the other spark plug wire is connected to a spark plug in the engine.
7. Turn on the ignition switch and the kill switch.
8. Spin the rotor while looking at the gap in the spark plug for a spark.
9. Turn off the kill switch and the ignition switch.

If the PAMCO fails the test, then PM me for warranty instructions. The coil is not sold by me.
 
Pete my new pamco and e-advance arrived today. Thank you.

quick question to anybody...Did you seal the ends of your e-advance box to prevent water from getting in? Is the Unit waterproof?

Any thoughts on if the e-advance can be mounted above the backbone but below tank? I know Pete said not to mount above the motor but I'm wondering if this would be ok? Does the unit need to be ventilated?

Thanks.
 
Sorry if this has been covered, but I have a 1980 xs650G. TCI, and I'm looking at replacing the entire charging system. I'm having a problem wrapping my head around the mechanical advance vs the E-advance. Do both options require the rod running through the cam? Is there any option to not run this rod?
 

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