Programmable advance TCI Replacement

Soldered in the diode and capacitor as outlined. Still no start from e-start. Fires right up w kickstart. Yes, made sure polarity of capacitor is correct. :(
Weak battery? Smaller than stock battery? Starter commutator and brushes in good condition? Headlight on while attempting to start?
 
Capacitor shows .960 volts after a charge. Should it be higher?
 
This is the capacitor I'm using....they didn't have a 16v but this is "up to 36v", could this be an issue?

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Have you tried with reg/rec unplugged?
 
diode and cap are probly not wired like the schematic above....
If you measure at point A, master key on, without cranking the starter:
Point A: you'd see the battery voltage: ie 12.6v
Point B: After the diode it's 12.0v and point C: around 1v
isn'it?

PS: 35v is ok. Still better.
 

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I get 12.7v at A, 11.73v at B, and .48v at C?
 
seems OK. what if you continue to measure point C and turn the key off?
Normally the cap should provide 11.73v to the 10k resistor and you should read 0.5v SLOWLY going down to 0 in around 5-7sec...

edit: in 2-3sec
 
seems OK. what if you continue to measure point C and turn the key off?
Normally the cap should provide 11.73v to the 10k resistor and you should read 0.5v SLOWLY going down to 0 in around 5-7sec...
Exactly what it does. It does start at .5v and after key off, slowly dwindles. One thing I'm noticing is after turning on ign, the timing light flashes once after about a second. I did the initall command and re-entered everything thinking that would clear the issue, but its still doing that. Scares the crap out of me when it ignites fuel in the cylinder lol.
 
the timing light flashes once after about a second.
Normal. :)To avoid overheating of the igntion coil, the TCI switches it off is no pickup are seen.
Hard to say from distance. you still use a 10k resistor since get a (too) low bias voltage?
and/or the 1000uf provide bias voltage while the battery goes low but 2sec is not enough? The cap should be bigger (4700uf or more)?
or the problem is elsewhere.... Can you try a 6ms dwell? (btw can U check with your scope what the original dwell time is?)
 
Normal. :)To avoid overheating of the igntion coil, the TCI switches it of is no pickup are seen.
Hard to say from distance. you still use a 10k resistor since get a (too?) low bias voltage
and/or the 1000uf provide bias voltage while the battery goes low but 2sec is not enough, the cap should be bigger (4700uf or more)
or the problem is elsewhere.... Can you try a 6ms dwell? (btw check with your scope what the original dwell time is?)
I went with the 8k resistor per earlier discussion (had to wire two in series to get to 8k). Jim will have to check dwell with his scope (I don't have one....yet). I thought max dwell setting is 5ms? Will get a bigger capacitor and try again.
 
BTW, thank you, Thierry for hangin in there with us! It is very much appreciated by all.
 
(had to wire two in series to get to 8k).
Then try with only one resistor of 4k.( I find the 0.5v bias voltage pretty low...) I really don't known, it's just a try
also increase dwell to 6 to see if that changes smth...
 
Can you increase dwell in Transmic beyond 5ms? Slider in setup limits it to 5 (so I thought).
 
So still a no-go on e-start with dwell set higher. Will get a lower resistor and larger capacitor and give it another try. Rome wasn't built in a day, so they say.
 
Then we can eliminate a Dwell problem.
I think the bias voltage is pretty low so yes, definitely use a 4k resistor (surely 4k7 isn't it?) and measure the voltage at point C. Test the e-starter and if it still wont start then increase the cap by a lot. A scope snapshot would be of tremendous help...

edit: I'm just thinking: Could it be that the battery is so low during e-starter that the TCI doesn't get enough 12v power ??
To diagnose if the TCI box is rebooting: Set pickup mode in "0/auto" mode and look at the blue led. She turns on when the TCI boots....
 
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