replacing starter motor seal with engine in frame?

DogBunny

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How hard is it to replace the starter motor seal with the engine still in the frame?
I know you need an offset box wrench two get two of the starter motor bolts off, but otherwise how difficult is it, and is there anything tricky to it? Any problems pushing the new seal in?
 
Interesting and helpful reading, thank you for the links. Maybe someone else knows the thread where the exact same question popped up recently?
 
Its not too difficult. I had to replace my starter and I got the four bolts off with standard wrences. While I had it of I went ahead and replaced the seal. It was my first time and I didnt know what I was doing, so I went in from the other side, took the case off then the 6 bolts that cover the starter gear. The seal poped out easy and went in easy.

BTW, dogbunny just got your dipstick thermometer, AWESOME.
 
I place the new seal on the starter, lift it up into place and use the starter motor to push the seal in. Then I bolt the starter in (without removing after seal install). The starter motor is heavy and it's quite easy to bugger up the seal lip with the gear on the end of the shaft when removing or installing the motor. I avoid that risk by never withdrawing it from the new seal.
 
Thank you Jerritt and 5twins, and thanks Jerritt for the kind words about the ThermoDipStick.

So, it does look pretty easy to do with the engine still in the frame. Will use 5twins' seal installation method.

I have probably had at least two dozen XS650 motors pass through my hands, in all states of disrepair and abuse, but this is the first leaking starter motor seal that I have ever seen. It's a little strange because the motor otherwise runs great and is leak-free, including the clutch push-rod seal, which is original.
 
I finished replacing my starter motor oil seal with the engine in the frame. Here are some observations:
As Jerritt said, you can use standard wrenches to get the two hidden bolts off, but since you can get a whole set of offset wrenches from HF for $15, I suggest getting the set.
I used 5twins method of putting the seal on the starter, and then inserting the starter into the engine. Very smooth and easy.
The biggest problem that I had was removing the old seal. I tried a seal puller from the outside, and I tried big screwdrivers from the outside, but I didn't get anywhere, and I wanted to make sure and not gouge the seal opening. So, I ended up having to take the starter gear and cover off, and I pounded the old seal out with a huge socket. It really took a lot of force to get that old seal out.
The seal housing was a bit gouged by a previous mechanic and required a bit of dressing, and the seal was a bit damaged, hence my original seal leak.
 
Yes, I should have mentioned you want to open up the little starter gear case to observe your new seal install and make old seal removal easier. I also follow the seal install tips outlined here, not only for this one but for all my seal installs, they really help .....

http://www.650motorcycles.com/XSseals.html
 
Yes, I forgot to mention that you need to chamfer the edge on the engine casing if you are installing the seal from the outside. It is a very sharp edge. The inside edge is already beveled, it appears that the seals were originally installed from inside the engine casing.
 
Hey guys. I need your help again. Where can I find that seal. The one that goes in the cases. I can’t seem to find it in any parts fiches. Thanks.
 
That’s what I thought too. But Roland Stuart said “That’s not it.” BTW He’s my engine builder. Are you sure? Thanks.
 
93102-34095-00
93102-34095-00 OIL SEAL,SD-TYPE is the OEM Part# and description. Mikesxs.net part# 01-9022 Engine Oil Seal - Starter motor to Crankcase
OEM Seal #93102-34095 Ars SD34-46-10.5
Fits: All 1972-84 650's.
 
18084D9E-2B94-461C-B5F6-19B0BB6BECE8.jpeg
You guys are awesome. Thanks so much. I think Roland might be losing his touch with these old bikes sometimes. He’s built many a motor for me and I trust him implicitly.
 
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