shopping for a multimeter

[denis]

I'm finally considering purchasing a multimeter or voltmeter, not really sure what the difference is, but I wanted to ask around and see what people suggest. I don't want to spend too much considering I'm not looking to use it often, but yet again something reliable and durable. I'm not electrically inclined so I don't need anything high-tech, I'm looking for something practical for motorcycle repair, something that won't require a PHD just to operate it.

Thanks.

 

[atomic22]

Harbor Freight has some good and cheap ones. I don't know the difference, but I have their multimeter.

 

[pamcopete]

A multimeter is a voltmeter, Ohm meter and Amp meter all in one. Also known as a V-O-M or Volt, Ohm, Milli-ammeter.

A volt meter is just that. Only measures volts.

 

[gggGary]

Yeah for what we do a cheap one is fine. The two things that would be nice to have on a VOM don't seem to be included at any price point. a spring clamp for the ground lead and a good system to mount the meter so it isn't always flopping around and falling on the floor. Interestingly for what we do the cheap analog units are probably better since the LED autoranging types don't work as well for some of the measuring that is needed on the charging circuit.

 

[bluebikerblan]

Fun site, lots of good stuff and good operation Cyclenutz has this.....

http://www.cyclenutz.com/products/tools_and_maintenance/electrical/mini_digital_multimeter.html

Blue

 

[pamcopete]

gggGary,

Right...should have mentioned that...those fancy "autoranging" meters don't work very well in our world. The voltage is usually jumping all around when the engine is running and that drives the meter crazy. Trying to measure low resistance, like .9 Ohms on the stator, is a pain. Cheap is good. The Harbor Freight meters are just fine. I've got three of them. Two of the really cheap ones and one of the not so cheap one, and they all work just great even when compared to my big buck digital Fluke and my faithful Simpson analog meter.

 

[bloodthirstysystem]

i got one yesterday for $10 from HF. Might pick up an analog meter from radioshack for watching the volts on a running engine..

 

[denis]

Ok. Got it. Thanks fellas.

What do you guys think about the one that Blue posted?

 

[bluebikerblan]

Hi Denis.....take a close look at both. Other than color it's kind of hard to see significant
difference. At these prices Pete's got the right idea....get one of each. Not going for
the "auto-ranging" type is noteworthy! Thanks Pete for the candor and guidance!


http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-92020.html

 

[TwoJugs]

Try home depot. I bought one that is basically a knock off of a Fluke meter. It has worked well for years.

 

[Travis]

I have a craftsman digital auto-ranging multimeter that was about $60 works great even on running bikes. The $20 craftsman digital multimeter I had would go runs when the trying to measure voltage on a running bike.

 

[XSLeo]

My Sun Pro worked great when I replaced the leads. A few burn spots an crimped looking spots didn't help much.
I have one off the Harbor Freight meters. #90899 $7.99 regular On sale most times at $3.99. With a coupon from a magazine $1.99. Works very well.

 

[ember]

They are all made in the same factory in China.

 

[BiffTirkle]

i am a technician who uses a multimeter EVERY day. get a half decent one. dont get a fluke, unless you like wasting money. sure, theyre nice, but youre not using it in extreme environments. and dont get the bottom of the barrel.

go mid, get a craftsman. i bought one 8 years ago, and now its time to replace it. and that is 5-6 days a week of using it. cost me 20 bucks.

 

[denis]

I ended up getting a Sperry this particular one.. http://www.amazon.com/W-Sperry-DM350A-Function-Multimeter/dp/B000ET5VYC

I paid 20.. so far so good. Its a learning process.




@ PamcoPete, I was able to do some tests on my Boyer Bransden (using the newly aquired multi), which I've been having trouble with and here are the numbers that I got.. once again bear with me as I expose my ignorance. This is what I gathered.. (im not sure if these are the right tests but ill do my best to explain exactly what I did to get the numbers)

I checked the resistance of the spark plug wires. I put the meter on the 20K "ohms" setting and got 5.74 and 5.72 for each wire. For the coil, I put one lead on one terminal and one on the other and also set on 20K ohms and got 2.72

Got 12.42 V for the battery and 11.5V all the way by the 18g wire going into the + on the coil. I've thought about the way the system works and I think that inputs travel from the stator everytime the magnet rotor comes in close proximity to the solder on the stator. Those impulses travel to the BB module and ground the coil for the spark. Im not sure if thats right or not. Ok so what I did to see whats happening on the grounding side of the module I unplugged the grounding wire from the coil and put a lead in it and one on the - on the battery and cranked the ignition to see if that will do anything and I got an unsteady read of around 3.2 V everytime I cranked it. Im not sure if this says much but let me know what you think.