Small aftermarket tachometers, are all 12000 rpm?

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arcticXS

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Hi all!
I was just browsing through Mikes' and had a quick look at the small mechanical tachometers they offer, 48 and 60mm. I could consider using 60 mm tacho and speedometer, but with a 12000 rpm scale, one would at best use a little more than half on an XS. Sort of stupid, and makes the tacho less readable.
Are there any compact aftermarket gauges with a sensible RPM scale on the market, like 0-9000 rpm? And with a similarly styled speedometer in km/h with a speed scale in the 180/200 km/h area?
 
Thanks Max!
These two Daytona gauges may be just what I want for my XS:

http://www.digital-speedos.co.uk/da...-with-polished-stainless-steel-case-403-p.asp
http://www.digital-speedos.co.uk/daytona-8k-rpm-gauge-with-polished-stainless-steel-case-405-p.asp

And especially as I already have this warning light pod:
http://www.digital-speedos.co.uk/warning-light-unit-in-polished-stainless-steel-135-p.asp

The 3 units I linked to will be almost perfect, I am not sure what to do with the oil pressure light, though. The tach and speedo have just the right rpm and speed range for my use (km/h not mph), and also have clock and temperature functions, respectively.
Oh shit, more spending.........
 
articXS,

You could wire the oil pressure light as an alternator fail light, like this:

whitelight.jpg

whitelight2.jpg


The white light comes on when you turn the key on (key and kill switch with the '81+) and goes off when the engine starts. If the regulator or alternator fails, the light will come back on.

In your case, just go directly from the red / white wire from the safety relay to the oil light. You wont need the diodes.
 
it is my understanding that the reason gauges have scales beyond the capabilities of the system gauged is that the spring inside that controls the needle is at its best tension for the job in the middle of the scale. At zero on the scale, the needle spring has less tension, allowing the system gauged to lag, were as at the top of the scale, the needle spring is at its most tension, causing the needle to be 'jumpy', innacurate.
Choosing a guage that has a scale wide enuf that the perameters used in the system gauged is somewere in the middle should have the needle spring at its designed tension....or at least thats what ive been told. ever seen a cooling temperature gauge stop at 200 degrre? or a oil pressure gauge stop at 5 lbs? (about what a xs runs).
I could be wrong, but it makes sense.
The oil light rewire to the charging system is good idea.
Soooo many ideas on this site I cant wait to build another.
 
Angus,
You may be correct, with regards to mechanical/ magnetic gauges like the stock yamaha ones, and some of the small gauges MikesXs are offering.
Electronic gauges may be of different construction, using stepper motors, at lest some are.
In any case, a 12000 rpm scale or 260 kmh scale, on a small gauge face (48 to 61 mm), gives low resolution and makes the gauges hard to read. Very few XS'es see 200 kmh or more than 7500-8000 rpm on the road. A 0-9000 rpm tach scale would be ideal, but 8000 rpm is an OK compromise. So I believe these Daytona gauges are the solution for me, and hopefully a good deal lighter than the stock gauges and cables as well. I now actually have XS750 Special instruments on the bike, as the stock ones were replaced by a previous owner.
 
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