Start it and then nothing!

Sn34ky

Farmer's can build bike 2
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Ok, i've tried jump on my bike after work tonight, I turn the key on, everything was fine, e-start it... run a little bit, died... it's cold outside, so everything's normal... tried to start it 2nd time, startor turn a little, then EVERYTHING died..., no lights, no juice at all... no everything, even the neutral light is dead... boum...

So if I can get some ideas where to look for just to think about that while sleeping tonight! Make me dream about a working bike for tomorow!

Thanks for shoothing!
 
Fuses are good... i'll check my grounds tomorrow

wonder if it can be the main switch?

My 20a fuses is good... so ...

I'll get back with something later!
 
Ok, i've tried jump on my bike after work tonight, I turn the key on, everything was fine, e-start it... run a little bit, died... it's cold outside, so everything's normal... tried to start it 2nd time, startor turn a little, then EVERYTHING died..., no lights, no juice at all... no everything, even the neutral light is dead... boum...

So if I can get some ideas where to look for just to think about that while sleeping tonight! Make me dream about a working bike for tomorow!

Thanks for shoothing!

I'm thinking you have a very weak battery. Could be due to the fact that its an old battery. It could also be a failing charging system, which is quite common on old bikes.

The most common electrical problem area is the alternator brushes. Remove and check that they are at least 3/8" long.

Use a VOM and measure the battery voltage. A fully charged battery should measure around 12.4 volts (engine off). At 3000 rpm should have around 14.1 to 14.5 volts.

Yes, as Grinder said, could be bad battery cable connections...............corrosion causes high resistance.
 
Tanks for replies guys!:thumbsup:

Ok, so I have 12.5v on batt, 12,5v on the switch... so after playing a little bit with connections, checking V on the brown wire, sudently everything came alive and got lights... turns the switch on and off couple time, I can hear the safety realy click, but when I've try to hit the start button, safety relay seems to stick and problem reappear... and forever! :doh:

So I read that on a 79' safety relay control the starter and headlight. Can I throw this relay in garbage if I'm going kick only? Am I supposed to be able to start it with the kicker even if the relay is sticked?

I have PMA and Pamco if it can help!!

Where can I jump the juice to bypass the relay and maybe the right hand switchs ?

Can It be something else?

thanks!:banghead:
 
Tanks for replies guys!:thumbsup:

Ok, so I have 12.5v on batt, 12,5v on the switch... so after playing a little bit with connections, checking V on the brown wire, sudently everything came alive and got lights... turns the switch on and off couple time, I can hear the safety realy click, but when I've try to hit the start button, safety relay seems to stick and problem reappear... and forever! :doh:

So I read that on a 79' safety relay control the starter and headlight. Can I throw this relay in garbage if I'm going kick only? Am I supposed to be able to start it with the kicker even if the relay is sticked?

I have PMA and Pamco if it can help!!

Where can I jump the juice to bypass the relay and maybe the right hand switchs ?

Can It be something else?

thanks!:banghead:

What size battery do you have (amp hrs?) and how old is it? Are you referring to the ignition switch? The click you hear may just be the starter relay.

In case you don't know, the fuse holders (4 position glass fuses) are infamous for being intermittant and causing lots of electrical problems.................fuse holders, not the fuses themselves.

As a test, you could use a jumper wire to bypass the ignition sw/ fuses/safety relay. Connect a temporary wire from the battery + terminal to the starter relay with the red/white wire, and then push the start push button. If the engine cranks over (the engine will not start), that tells you that the battery and battery cables are working normally.................load testing the battery.
 
Ok guys! After looking deeper, I saw a mutilated harness from the PO... twisted wires with electrical tape for connections everywhere, almost splicing apart... so I'll wired it in new... wish I could wait till off-season... but it still have a couple weeks of nice riding... I baught a blade fuses block and I'm gonna do this '' Simplify Style'' ...

Thanks for helping me!!
 
Hey guys!! I just rewired my bike, is that correct if I got 12.5V at idle and 14,9v at 3k rpm?

I have PMA, PAMCO, Halogen up front and led tail light. Kick start only, I remove everything exept the flasher relay for stockers, horn and kill.
 
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