Starting an engine after a long lay up

[Splodge]

I'm looking for some tips regarding first time starting of an engine which has has been sitting for a couple of years.
Obviously the carbs will need to be stripped and cleaned and fresh oil and filter service
will be completed.
I'm concerned about making sure the oil is flowing to the top of engine before the engine fires.
I was thinking I would disconect the coils remove the spark plugs and crank the starter for about a minute, I'd like a second opinion though.
Thanks

 

[fredintoon]

Hi robotnik and welcome,
it's important to know WHERE the engine has been sitting all that time.
As it's a vertical twin one or more of it's valves has to have always been open.
If it's been in dry indoor storage your prestart procedure will be OK.
If it's been parked outside, not so much.
Perhaps you can borrow an eyeball on a stick tool (AKA flexible boroscope)
to look down the plugholes for rust?

 

[mrtwowheel]

A fogging oil in the plug holes could free up some stuck rings if there are any, if you let it sit after spraying, turning the motor by hand a few times. It's always fun to do a compression test after starting and then a while later to see any improvements in ring fit and valve closing. After it's running, some Seafoam in triple dosage can clean some carbon from the rings, pistons and valves. I spend a lot of time cleaning the fuel tank, petcocks, new fuel filters, new clean fuel lines, that's all part of cleaning the carbs with original inspected parts.

Scott

 

[mrtwowheel]

I expect some back-lash for this......but I put some anti-seize on the new plug threads if the old ones have been in there for a while.

Scott

 

[lakeview]

Welcome to the site. If you use the search feature in the upper right hand corner you will access the accumulated knowledge of all those who have done this before. The inmates like to see pictures, please, plus it would help us help you.

 

[gggGary]

I like to open the valve covers and hit the valve stems with rust buster then oil same for the pistons then lots of plugs out kicking or cranking.
As Fred sez a sticky valve is very possible. Oil to the top will be obvious after that but you can loosen one of the oil tube bolts at the top end to be super positive. do compression tests. so you have a base line.

Oh yeah a head stud retorque is a great start up procedure, I do it on every wake up now.

 

[MaxPete]

I've never put anti-seize on a spark plug (I usually just use a tiny drop of engine oil on the threads) but I can't see the harm in it Scott. ...although maybe there is something I haven't considered.

One thing is for sure, steel (as on a spark plug) threaded into aluminium (i.e. cylinder head) can be a problem, if left in-place too long.

A re-torque as suggested by Gary is also a good idea. My '81 Special for the Cafe build is proving to be a bit reluctant - but the compression is good and everything seems to move. Hmmmmm.

Pete

 

[mrtwowheel]

I used PB Blaster in a seized engine once, next day the crankcase was leaking where it wasn't leaking before. This could have just worked past a seal, but I never did that again.

Scott

 

[gggGary]

PB blaster; about 5 cans so far. Heck I got married again.....................

And yes I use anti seize on plugs too, VERY sparingly, sparks would rather travel through metallic anti sieze than jump an air gap.

 

[retiredgentleman]

Don't let my comments stop you from using some anti seize sparingly, if that's your choice.. However, I like to be able to feel the clean threads, as I turn them in using my fingers. Rookies might put too much on, making the threads drag enough that they lose feel and cross thread them. I know you old hands would never do that.

Its similar to installing spark plugs down deep into a DOHC engine. On my V6 Camry, its all done by feel, using a rubber hose on the plug terminal to turn the plug into its seat. Clean threads with low friction is the key to doing this safely.

 

[Max Midnight]

And yes I use anti seize on plugs too, VERY sparingly, sparks would rather travel through metallic anti seize than jump an air gap.

Just thinking aloud, I would have thought that in correctly torqued spark plug there would already be minimal resistance between the plug and cylinder head. Would anti-seize make any significant difference? And for any tracking to occur then wouldn't it suggest that there was already poor insulation between the ceramic and metal parts?
Just wondering.....

 

[MaxPete]

Yup - There is already metal-metal contact when you thread two pieces of metal together - so as long as you don't slop the anti-sieze compound around and get it onto the end of the spark plug - I don't see any difference in terms of spark leakage paths.

 

[mrtwowheel]

Just thinking aloud, I would have thought that in correctly torqued spark plug there would already be minimal resistance between the plug and cylinder head. Would anti-seize make any significant difference? And for any tracking to occur then wouldn't it suggest that there was already poor insulation between the ceramic and metal parts?
Just wondering.....

The anti-seize is used to stop or avoid any corrosion caused by two dissimilar metals in contact, also known as galling. Caution should be taken when torqueing in the plugs with anti-seize because plugs are often over-torqued and the greasiness makes it easier to over-torque. I put them in till they make contact, then 3/4 turn more, less with a plug that has been previously installed.

I use anti-seize on most fasteners, especially when changing to stainless in an aluminum casting.

Scott

 

[mrtwowheel]

Robotnik, check your intake for mice nests. You don't want any grit sucked into the engine or little pink critters obstructing a valve.

Scott

 

[Max Midnight]

The anti-seize is used to stop or avoid any corrosion caused by two dissimilar metals in contact, also known as galling. Caution should be taken when torqueing in the plugs with anti-seize because plugs are often over-torqued and the greasiness makes it easier to over-torque. I put them in till they make contact, then 3/4 turn more, less with a plug that has been previously installed.

I use anti-seize on most fasteners, especially when changing to stainless in an aluminum casting.

Also to prevent (or minimise) galvanic corrosion which can be an issue for those fasteners that aren't touched for a long time.

The XS650 tightening torque is given as 19Nm (14ft/lbs) which is for a dry, clean thread. In the handbook for my other bike which has a similar tightening torque they recommend 1/4 to 1/2 a turn once finger tight if a torque wrench is not available.

 

[Splodge]

Thanks for all the replies.
The bike has been kept indoors and out of the elements.
No chance of getting a look into the barrels, unfortunately.
I've had lots to Google, never heard of fogging oil or PB Blaster before, I've now ordered some fogging oil.
The engine isn't seized or anything, I pushed the kickstarter down carefully by hand a couple of times before I'd bought it, it seems good, with a good bit of compression.
Hi Scott, I'll definately check the intakes for mice nests too
Thanks again for your advice folks.
Neil

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

A lil' snippet from NGK:

 

[MaxPete]

Ooooohhh - ouch. OK - further proof of the old maxim: "If in doubt, read the darned manual".

 

[retiredgentleman]

2M...................good information there from NGK!
I use anti-seize on lots of bolts on my bike, but spark plugs are an exception. On the plugs, I use dry clean threads and 14 ft/lbs torque.
NGK plugs are excellent plugs..................I like them a lot!

 

[mrtwowheel]

Yep, don't over tighten your plugs, there'll be a trace of anti-seize on mine.

Scott