Stock headers, mikes mufflers?

Screaming Meemie

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Hey everybody, first technical (read: begging the advice of guru's) post here so bear with me.

I got my wheels off to paint and yanked the exhausts as well, as I bought some heat wrap to do the headers. Now that the stockers are off, im hating the look of them & the connecting tube is kinda mashed anyway... bottom line, looking for new mufflers.

Is it a possibility to run the stock headers, cut off at the weld of course, with Mike's shorty megaphone mufflers? I like the removable baffle part & the 12" length. They're 1.75" internal diameter and im wondering if they'll slide over the cut headers with a tight enough gap to weld, & use the stock mounts? Or is it just a better idea to ditch the double walled stockers & go with aftermarket headers as well? :shrug:

'79 heritage special, all stock thus far.
 
I was trying to find PamcoPetes thread about the reducer pipe and the stock headers when adding aftermarket mufflers.
I did some muffler changes today utilizing the reducer and the stock headers as you describe and everything went well. I'm using the 27 inch Dunstall replicas on a set of '83 Special headers cut at the weld, just behind the lower frame mount. Mufflers are mounted to the Special muffler bracket and the ends run out to about the end of the rear wheel adjuster body. The look, sound and performance are great. Personally I wouldn't use the shortys.
If and when these Dunstalls go bad I'll replace with a set of Commandos from Mikesxs, also in the 27" length- as that is what I have on the '77.
 
just checked it thanks! im heading to the auto parts store tomorrow anyway so i'll snag a pair of those reducers. when you cut the stock mufflers off at the weld, how is the inner pipe connected to the muffler? will i need to cut that as well or is it a gasket-style linkage?
 
http://www.amckayltd.com/inner.jpg


There's about an inch between the welded P-clamp that's on the header and the beginning of the muffler. Just cut through both pipes right before the muffler and you should have what Pete has pictured above......notice the P clamp is still in play.
I'll note that if you cut in front of the P clamp and intend to do this mod you may be putting the muffler too far forward and then be getting in to where the right muffler will be interfering with the brake pedal performance.......
 
Here's a shot.........
reducer001_zps263ab854.jpg


Stepping back a few feet for the overall......
reducer002_zps66084e6a.jpg
 
Thanks NJ (& pamcopete by osmosis i guess). I went out & picked up a pair of those buggers today for when i eventually get the mufflers (just heat-wrapped my headers for style & cut the stock baffles for now).
Another question though: ive read a +1 pilot & +2-3 main are about the right settings for a re-jet on the BS38's if i go with new mufflers and UNI pods instead of the airbox, which i plan to do... again eventually :/ However, i'll be doing that in bozeman MT, which is about 4000ft higher than where i am in MN. Do you think i could get away with the mods 'compensating' for the elev. change or should i go ahead & get a range of jets anyway? i had a tricky time getting the Banshee's jets right for the change & still keeping power :)banghead:) and im not exactly looking for an opportunity to play with jets again.
 
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