Why wont u start!

[5twins]

You're actually setting 2 separate ignitions here, one for each cylinder. Adjust the top points set (right cylinder) 1st. Loosen the 2 large screws (red arrows) and rotate the whole backing plate to do this. Next, move the test light to the bottom points set (left cylinder), check and adjust it's timing if need be. To do that without disturbing the top set's adjustment, loosen the 2 smaller screws (blue arrows) and move the half plate the lower points mount to. If you move the whole backing plate again, you'll throw the top set off .....

This pic is missing the lower points set because it is of the single points set-up I used to run. The half plate for the 2nd points set is still there because it holds the felt lube pads.

 

[Kingwj]

Put the battery charger on before going to bed.

Can't hurt.

 

[frank]

Man Thanks so much! I feel like a retard cause it seems that i need you to explain it to me at a third grade level lol but i appreciate that really! Alright tomorrow is a new day and i will keep you posted! Thanks again!

 

[XSLeo]

Once you have done it a few times it gets easier.

 

[frank]

Ok good news! I finally got it started and the timing is very close. it ran good for a bit but then satrted with the up and down reving? Not sure whats causing that but i'm gonna do some carb adjustements tomorrow to hopefully get that fixed. Also still getting some backfires out the carb and tail pipes? Could that be a carb issue also?

 

[frank]

Alright here we go. Got some really good carbs from a guy. It started up after a few kicks and i adjusted the carbs so that at idle it would run good and it did. I hit the throttle i get backfire from the carbs and backfire from the tailpipe. Went for a test drive and it missed considerably and drove rough. The timming is dead on the money i sthink. At idle it sits right in the middle of the "u". Thats good right? So what else could be the problem?

 

[angus67]

valves too tight? does it backfire after its all warmed up? might have tight valve that open a wee bit when motor hot. go inlet .006mm exhaust .015mm

 

[5twins]

If your "really good" carbs have stock jetting and you've done mods to the bike (pipes, pods), you may be running lean and need to rejet.

 

[frank]

I'll try both! You wouldn't have the litterature on how to set the valves would ya? Also 5twins i have straight cut short pipes and pod filters the good kind. Any idea where i should go on my jetting if i'm coming from stock cause i'm positive the carb jetting is still stock.

 

[5twins]

Rejetting will depend on what year the carbs are and what's in them now (could have been changed already). The usual scenario is to go up 1 to 3 sizes on the mains, one up on the pilots, and adjust the needle setting if needed. Later carb sets from '78 on usually only need 1 or 2 up on the mains because they came with pretty big stock sizes. Earlier sets came with smaller mains and may require a bigger increase. The '76-'77 carb set in particular, since it came with the smallest mains ever put in a 650, could need 4 to 5 sizes larger.

Valve adjusting procedures are in the shop manual which was provided to you through the link earlier in this thread. Read it then ask questions about anything you don't understand. Do that 1st before any carb work. Carbs are the last thing you adjust after doing cam chain, valves, and timing (in that order).