yeah yeah, another wiring issue, but I swear- quick question

[alxire]

one things I've seen guys do is crimp eyelets/connectors OVER wire insulation, so the actual wire isnt touching the connection. looks real pretty but wont work worth a damn lol.

Haha! Def not that

 

[alxire]

and have you checked that the green wire from the pamco plate is wired properly to the coil with a continuity test? that appears to be the signal wire for the firing of the spark...by looking at the schematic anyways

Haven't done this. I'll test that thus weekend. Thanks man!

 

[XSLeo]

On any charging system the stator does not ground. If it does it won't work.
Inside the stator there are coils of wire that are hooked together so as to put out three phase AC. About 10-20 VAC on the three wires. This three phase AC goes to the reg/rec where the rectifier half converts the AC to DC the dime can use. On a PMA the PMA puts out max power at all times. If the voltage goes over the preset 14.5 volts it bleeds the extra off through a resistance. This creates heat. The heat gets dissipated by the fins on the reg/rec.
Now on your diagram you have your cap wired backwards. The red is the positive side.
Try hooking just the ignition to a battery. Leave all the rest wired as you have it. Check for spark. You can do this without spinning the engine by removing the Pamco rotor, pulling out the locating pin, put the rotor back on put the nut on loosely. Now just spin the rotor.
If you don't get spark make sure you get battery voltage to the red wire at the coil and at the Pamco E-advancer.
When you spin the rotor the magnets pass by the Hall Effect Transistor. As the magnets pass the HET it turns on and off. When on it send a signal to the e-advancer. This signal tells the e-advancer what the engines position is. It uses this signal to know when to turn on or off the main power Transistor. When its on it grounds the green wire from the coil. This powers up the coil, creating a strong magnetic field. When the next magnet passes the HET it turns off, This turns off the MPT. This stops the power flowing through the coil. The strong magnetic field collapses creating a very high voltage in the secondary of the coil causing the spark.
No spark usually means a weak or bad wiring connection. Recheck all your wiring. On the E-Advancer you have three wires that are marked coil. The red hooks to one side of the coil and power from the engine stop switch. The green to the other side of the coil. Black to ground.
On the other side of the E-Advancer the three wires are the same color as the three wires on the sensor plate, just hook red to red, green to green, black to black.
The coil like any dual output coil isn't polarity sensitive. So just hook the red to one primary terminal the green to the other.
On any coil that has plastic on the ends, peel it off. The coil doesn't ground through the mounts but it needs the clean metal to metal connection for a heat sink. As it runs the coil gets warm. This heat bleeds off into the frame.
Leo

 

[alxire]

On any charging system the stator does not ground. If it does it won't work.
Inside the stator there are coils of wire that are hooked together so as to put out three phase AC. About 10-20 VAC on the three wires. This three phase AC goes to the reg/rec where the rectifier half converts the AC to DC the dime can use. On a PMA the PMA puts out max power at all times. If the voltage goes over the preset 14.5 volts it bleeds the extra off through a resistance. This creates heat. The heat gets dissipated by the fins on the reg/rec.
Now on your diagram you have your cap wired backwards. The red is the positive side.
Try hooking just the ignition to a battery. Leave all the rest wired as you have it. Check for spark. You can do this without spinning the engine by removing the Pamco rotor, pulling out the locating pin, put the rotor back on put the nut on loosely. Now just spin the rotor.
If you don't get spark make sure you get battery voltage to the red wire at the coil and at the Pamco E-advancer.
When you spin the rotor the magnets pass by the Hall Effect Transistor. As the magnets pass the HET it turns on and off. When on it send a signal to the e-advancer. This signal tells the e-advancer what the engines position is. It uses this signal to know when to turn on or off the main power Transistor. When its on it grounds the green wire from the coil. This powers up the coil, creating a strong magnetic field. When the next magnet passes the HET it turns off, This turns off the MPT. This stops the power flowing through the coil. The strong magnetic field collapses creating a very high voltage in the secondary of the coil causing the spark.
No spark usually means a weak or bad wiring connection. Recheck all your wiring. On the E-Advancer you have three wires that are marked coil. The red hooks to one side of the coil and power from the engine stop switch. The green to the other side of the coil. Black to ground.
On the other side of the E-Advancer the three wires are the same color as the three wires on the sensor plate, just hook red to red, green to green, black to black.
The coil like any dual output coil isn't polarity sensitive. So just hook the red to one primary terminal the green to the other.
On any coil that has plastic on the ends, peel it off. The coil doesn't ground through the mounts but it needs the clean metal to metal connection for a heat sink. As it runs the coil gets warm. This heat bleeds off into the frame.
Leo

Thanks man! I'll give this a shot this weekend and report back. Also, the cap is a Sparx which from what I understand is meant for british bikes where red is the ground and black is power.

 

[ANLAF]

I recently had a wiring problem, fellers, when my engine started but cut out why I revved the engine - I re-wired those pretty connections, and BINGO! problem solved. Looks like the vibration of the engine and poor connectors are not a good combination.

Anlaf