Got stranded for the first time yesterday (ever), baffled yet again, help???

Bought new regulator but problem not fixed. I have officially replaced the ENTIRE electrical system :doh: :laugh:

I also got a new (used) safety relay since my other one was bypassed (testing another theory). This is where I am puzzled especially: when I turn the key, the headlight comes on. Now, if I recall the headlight should not come on until the bike has started (unless you bypass the safety relay, which has not been done to my latest one). Additionally, that red brake check light comes on immediately and stays on, key on to key off. Brake light is fine.

So what's going on? Any wiring gurus?

For updated reference:
  • Brand new OEM ignition switch
  • Brand clutch-side control switch
  • Brand new OEM alternator rotor
  • Brand new OEM regulator/rectifier
  • Brand new sealed-beam headlight bulb
  • Brand new OEM wiring harness w/fuse box
  • Brand new OEM alternator stator w/brushes
  • New/Used tested and working safety relay (unmodified)
  • AGM battery less than 6 months old, working fine and holds charge

Previous to the "breakdown" NEVER had any issues whatsoever with charging.
 
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I think it HAS to be either a grounding issue or wiring issue. But the wiring is brand new and connected properly. Everything on the machine works except the charging.

Tested voltage at brush per the charging guide, battery voltage is getting there fine. Now is voltage leaving the alternator and going back to the battery, I dunno. Not sure how to figure that one out. Battery readings don't change upon revving.

Just tested rotor, it's fine.

Regulator is brand new and wasn't the cause of the issue anyway.

Next I'm going to test the stator although it's brand new, just because I'm out of ideas.

Kinda wishing I had just waited to repair until after I got back from my trip. Would've just spent the extra $100 for complete PMA and Pamco.
 
Ever try just unplugging the yellow wire comming from the stator that goes to the safety relay and running the bike. As you stated the headlight shouldn't be comming on until the bike is running. Are you getting voltage at that wire with key on/bike not running? Should be dead until the bike starts.
 
Grinder said:
Ever try just unplugging the yellow wire comming from the stator that goes to the safety relay and running the bike. As you stated the headlight shouldn't be comming on until the bike is running. Are you getting voltage at that wire with key on/bike not running? Should be dead until the bike starts.
Click to expand...

This actually dawned on me when I was reading about the safety relay. Anyway, I disconnected the yellow wire and still no charging.
Yellow wire disconnected, no voltage at the yellow wire from alternator when turning key on.
 
Do you get voltage at the yellow wire with the bike running? I think it's suppose to be around 6-8v but can't remember for sure.
 
Grinder said:
Do you get voltage at the yellow wire with the bike running? I think it's suppose to be around 6-8v but can't remember for sure.
Click to expand...

With the bike running, there is no voltage on the yellow wire coming from the stator.

Bad stator???? Hope not, this was brand new. Problem existed before I replaced stator anyway.
 
rebel542 said:
Red brake indicator usually means alternator brushes.
Click to expand...
Brushes are brand new and came with new stator. I did the voltage test on brushes and they passed. I really am baffled as the title of the thread says because I have literally tried and checked and just about replaced, everything. I could live with crappy running carbs but gotta have charging or get stranded again.
 
Have you tried running a ground wire directly to the body of the regulator? What kind of voltage are you getting at the positive brush with the key on?
 
I ran a ground from the battery to the engine. Don't have my jumper cables right now so can't test other locations.

Positive brush gives same voltage as battery, circa 12.6 with key on
 
Did you try doing step 3 in the charging guide? Any old piece of wire will do for checking grounds, one end on the battery terminal and the other to the problem area.
 
New parts doesn't necessarly mean good parts. I think we have all gotton bad new parts at some point. May be worthwhile to recheck things just to be sure. I think i would run a wire directly from the battery neg to the negative brush and see what you get.
 
Yeah I hear ya, but the problem existed before I replaced these things. My logic is if I will have to replace parts eventually, so just keep replacing em until the problem is solved. Unfortunately, problem still exists despite all the parts being replaced.

I actually tried that already but will try again.
 
Splexin: It sounds like you and I are having similar (but probably not the same) charging problems. I'm not an electrical expert, but did you check your rectifier to be sure it's passing current between the red and white wires; and between the black and white wires in only one direction (should see near infinity in the opposite direction)?
 
freddy3 said:
Splexin: It sounds like you and I are having similar (but probably not the same) charging problems. I'm not an electrical expert, but did you check your rectifier to be sure it's passing current between the red and white wires; and between the black and white wires in only one direction (should see near infinity in the opposite direction)?
Click to expand...

I actually just installed the brand new rectifier/regulator today and have not tested it following the assumption that is is working being brand new and all. I will test it though, don't want to have the mindset that brand new equals flawless.

What really bothers me is the red light indicator is a solid red, not a dimming etc red like I have experienced in the past. Usually when it is solid red to me that means a connection is wrong. But if the wiring was done wrong I should have noticed when I first installed the new harness. Something just isn't right, a ground or something I dunno.
 
Are you sure your regulator contains the rectifier? You may very well be correct that, for your bike, it does. But since you've replaced everything and the ignition light is still on, you might want to double-check.
On the XS2, the rectifier and regulator are separate components, located on opposite sides of the bike. I had a similar charging problem a couple of years ago that began after the rectifier smoked and burned-up. After I replaced it, I had to replace the entire charging system to get the charging system back to normal. Then, a few weeks ago, after I installed a new tachometer, the charging system just went out again. But, this time, the rectifier appeared to be fine and I keep getting varying readings on every component. So I'm still going 'round in circles, too.
 
Yeah, I have an '80 which has rectifier and regulator in one solid-state unit.

I actually considered maybe safety relay was issue but not the case either.
 
Have you checked for a shorted wire inside the headlight case? It's a rat's nest of wires in there and between heat from the rear of the headlight and just plain cramped quarters, maybe one of the rubber insulation pieces that cover each of the connectors slide off-center, leaving a metal connector to short against the case or another wire.
 

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