1973 xs650 shed release

gggGary said:
Yeah they ARE pretty tough. I got a 79 that was "abandoned" in a barn in about 81 sat untouched til 2014 It had no title so I pulled the motor, stuck it in a different bike, did basic maintenance, oil, filters, valve and cam set, head stud retorque, carb overhaul. I have put 5K miles on it in the last two years. It's not babied either. Runs like a Swiss watch, well it is an XS650 it's not THAT smooth. Most barn bikes come back to life with little more than a thorough clean up and maintenance. I've fired up and run at least 20 XS650 barn bikes, most have had a ten year or more lay up. Few had had decent maintenance in their past lives.
Most common "needs engine work" problems are hardened, cracked valve seals or rust in the top end, that's usually bikes that sat out exposed to weather.
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That' s encouraging, needless to say I'm not getting any support from the Mrs. Even though I just retired doesn't mean there is not work to do. Have to make mama
happy before I can play. Picked up a yellow combined service manual at a flea market for 5 bucks includes 1973tx650. For storage it says put a tablespoon of 10w to 30w oil in spark plug holes before trying to kick engine over. I have 30w and 10w40 on hand. How many times should I put oil in spark plug holes before trying to to start it with the ignition on? Also, what yrs are compatible for fenders,seats, turn signals, etc for my 73? I have some parts where the chrome is pitted. I am a man of my word and there will be pics and progress reports. Thanks to everyone who has responded, I'm enjoying the forum. Many of you have done great jobs with your bikes. You know who you are.
 
Congratulations on your retirement! I can't think of a better hobby than bringing an old bike back to life, and even better that it was yours all these years. Were you the original owner by any chance?
The tech section is an invaluable reference especially for carburetor, electrical, and charging system info.
The search function in the upper right hand corner is also your friend. Most of the time just typing in a few key words will get you more information than you can read. Remember we like pictures. Good luck and let the fun begin! :laugh2:
image.gif
 
No science but I like to open valve covers spray a bit of rust buster inside the valve springs on all 4, kick it over some more, check set the valves. If any valve gap is REALLY wide suspect some carbon on a valve seat. At this point oil should be plentiful in the head. Kick it enough, plugs out, to get rid of any extra oil then put the plugs or a compression gauge in and see what you have on both sides.
Good time to set the cam chain too. With plugs out you can work the kick starter by hand or use the E-lever and watch the plunger go in n out, search for the how to set cam chain tension. Short version slowly snug adjuster till til plunger stops moving while you kick it through, back off about 1/3 turn and lock. I like some rust buster in the plug holes too, hoping/helping to free up the rings.
Expect that carbs will NOT work until after they have been overhauled, but a shot of ether, carb cleaner, or a dribble of gas in the carbs should fire it off.
My 74 wake up project is back burner but I've been kicking it over when I wander by for two weeks now, LOL. A gauge says 145 150 which is excellent for a "sitter" remains to be seen if it will fire up, maybe next month.
 
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Mailman said:
Congratulations on your retirement! I can't think of a better hobby than bringing an old bike back to life, and even better that it was yours all these years. Were you the original owner by any chance?
The tech section is an invaluable reference especially for carburetor, electrical, and charging system info.
The search function in the upper right hand corner is also your friend. Most of the time just typing in a few key words will get you more information than you can read. Remember we like pictures. Good luck and let the fun begin! :laugh2:
View attachment 101308
Click to expand...
Thanks Mailman. I bought my bike from a friend with about 200 miles on it a week or two after serving in the Air Force. He had planned a trip out west with my cousin, but injured his tailbone,so I took his place. There is much more to the story. My bike and I did not make it home at the same time. I assume I'm a little older than you so I hope you wont be offended if I give you a little advice. I dont think it's a good idea for you to be flashing that endless supply of c notes around that you get from your government job. I fear for your safety!
 
We all love restoration threads, and it's a fun way to document the progress on your bike. I look forward to following your resto.

old boy said:
Thanks Mailman. I dont think it's a good idea for you to be flashing that endless supply of c notes around that you get from your government job. I fear for your safety!
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Who me? I am but a humble public servant. A calling really. :D
 
wrenchjohns said:
I think 1970 thru 1973 most parts interchange with mostly subtle differences. john
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Thanks wrench. I hope you dont mind if I shortened your name, but I'm really slow at typing among other things.Weaselbeak didnt seem to mind at least he didnt mention it. I saw some 75 fenders didnt know if they were the same.
 
gggGary said:
No science but I like to open valve covers spray a bit of rust buster inside the valve springs on all 4, kick it over some more, check set the valves. If any valve gap is REALLY wide suspect some carbon on a valve seat. At this point oil should be plentiful in the head. Kick it enough, plugs out, to get rid of any extra oil then put the plugs or a compression gauge in and see what you have on both sides.
Good time to set the cam chain too. With plugs out you can work the kick starter by hand or use the E-lever and watch the plunger go in n out, search for the how to set cam chain tension. Short version slowly snug adjuster till til plunger stops moving while you kick it through, back off about 1/3 turn and lock. I like some rust buster in the plug holes too, hoping/helping to free up the rings.
Expect that carbs will NOT work until after they have been overhauled, but a shot of ether, carb cleaner, or a dribble of gas in the carbs should fire it off.
My 74 wake up project is back burner but I've been kicking it over when I wander by for two weeks now, LOL. A gauge says 145 150 which is excellent for a "sitter" remains to be seen if it will fire up, maybe next month.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks Gary. I took out both plugs today.One was rusty the other clean. I was going to put a tablespoon of oil in the holes as the manual said but didnt as I was waiting to hear how many times I should kicking it over after adding the oil As of now I dont know how to check set the valves.Is the E-lever the electric start? How come some of my replies dont show all the words I typed, or am I replying in the wrong place? Wow its way past my bedtime.
 
Slow and steady wins the race. Since you haven't started: For me I like to use rust buster first, my personal go to is PB Blaster. couple good sprays in each plug hole. kick 10-15 times then add oil. Get used to using search lots of valve setting how to. The early engines call for pretty big valve gaps but many have run them with late model settings.... Yes the e-lever is the electric start. So that means a new battery. (and so it begins) A lot is amount to kick it over, 50-100 times? Something like that. As above I like to get some rust buster in the valve springs headed at the valve stems, seals. The XS ALWAYS has one valve open so at least one stem has been out of the warm oil bathed seal and exposed to possible rust in the intake or exhaust, best to be SURE the stem is lubed and sliding freely in the guide before a start is attempted, several have bent a valve on start up when it stuck open and a piston hit it. Not super likely but why take a chance?
On not seeing what you are typing that sometimes happens when windows is updating in the background and will quit in a bit. A couple of Fosters will do that also............
 
When I brought the XS1 back, I steady kicked nearly to exhaustion, then put power and fuel to it and kicked 30 minutes more. Then it started. It was properly put to sleep (bone dry with fresh oil in crankcase) in 1979 and stored indoors. john
 
gggGary said:
Slow and steady wins the race. Since you haven't started: For me I like to use rust buster first, my personal go to is PB Blaster. couple good sprays in each plug hole. kick 10-15 times then add oil. Get used to using search lots of valve setting how to. The early engines call for pretty big valve gaps but many have run them with late model settings.... Yes the e-lever is the electric start. So that means a new battery. (and so it begins) A lot is amount to kick it over, 50-100 times? Something like that. As above I like to get some rust buster in the valve springs headed at the valve stems, seals. The XS ALWAYS has one valve open so at least one stem has been out of the warm oil bathed seal and exposed to possible rust in the intake or exhaust, best to be SURE the stem is lubed and sliding freely in the guide before a start is attempted, several have bent a valve on start up when it stuck open and a piston hit it. Not super likely but why take a chance?
On not seeing what you are typing that sometimes happens when windows is updating in the background and will quit in a bit. A couple of Fosters will do that also............
Click to expand...
Thanks again Gary. This reply is exactly type I need. Simple easy to follow instructions with detail. Another glimmer of light in my benighted state of xs650 restoration.
 
old boy said:
Just having fun. I really hope the Wizzard does finish. Is there a place on the forum where everyone shows their before and after pics or do you have to follow old threads?
Click to expand...
Let me get it finished before I post the before and after pics. I did luck out and find an unmolested blue tx650 for $650 in Garden City. It sat for years with a tank full of "gas".
 

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