-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
theDQG
XS650 Addict
Sorry sir, it's gone (as well as the gauges). Will be putting up whatever is left that I'm willing to sell, soon. Be sure to check out the classifieds.
theDQG
XS650 Addict
Well, things got a bit frustrating. I learned that sometimes the two most important words of motorcycle restoration can be: "Walk away."
As in walk away before I do something stupid out of frustration.
That last bearing absolutely refuses to come out, the cam chain is not moving at all, no slack- and I was at the point where I had half a mind to take my sawzall to the cam chain, especially after going to three different stores and finding out they don't have a chain breaker kit.
Can anyone suggest a good chain breaker kit? I'm eager to get one that doesn't break easily- I know most of the cheaper breakers are cast, not made from hardened steel.
As in walk away before I do something stupid out of frustration.
That last bearing absolutely refuses to come out, the cam chain is not moving at all, no slack- and I was at the point where I had half a mind to take my sawzall to the cam chain, especially after going to three different stores and finding out they don't have a chain breaker kit.
Can anyone suggest a good chain breaker kit? I'm eager to get one that doesn't break easily- I know most of the cheaper breakers are cast, not made from hardened steel.
You don't need a breaker, stuff with rags, grind the heads off two pins, tap out a link, done.
BUT removing the bearing to drop the cam and slip the chain off is better. Try slipping a socket or piece of pipe over the cam end and tapping the bearing IN a bit that will free it up so it can slide OFF. a touch of 600 grit on the cam bearing surface might help also.
theDQG
XS650 Addict
One of a long list of "be aware" warnings, the early (256) cam, crank, chains are different size, length than later 447 parts.
Cam Chain
Cam Chain Photo Cam Chain - Tsubaki BF05T x 102 with rivet link. Pitch .315" (8.0mm.)
Fits: XS1/XS1B/XS2/TX650 1970-73 (34 tooth cam). Made in Japan
NOTE:Link pitch differs from chains used on later 650's. For 70-73 650's Only!
Installation Note: Cam Chain IS absolutely correct original brand/size/length/type
Original install will be Very tight as chain is pressure injected with grease at factory
and head gasket is not yet compressed. Install with tensioner assembly out and it may
be necessary to pry chain over last half tooth of cam sprocket to get the chain in place
so joiner link can be installed. Chain will loosen once head is torqued and engine is run
a short time.
OEM Reference #
• 94510-01102-00
• 94590-02102-00
Part #52-5003 $45.75 USD Ea
Cam Chain
Cam Chain Photo Cam Chain - Tsubaki BF05T x 102 with rivet link. Pitch .315" (8.0mm.)
Fits: XS1/XS1B/XS2/TX650 1970-73 (34 tooth cam). Made in Japan
NOTE:Link pitch differs from chains used on later 650's. For 70-73 650's Only!
Installation Note: Cam Chain IS absolutely correct original brand/size/length/type
Original install will be Very tight as chain is pressure injected with grease at factory
and head gasket is not yet compressed. Install with tensioner assembly out and it may
be necessary to pry chain over last half tooth of cam sprocket to get the chain in place
so joiner link can be installed. Chain will loosen once head is torqued and engine is run
a short time.
OEM Reference #
• 94510-01102-00
• 94590-02102-00
Part #52-5003 $45.75 USD Ea
theDQG
XS650 Addict
Thanks, just added that to my notes for the rebuild.
theDQG
XS650 Addict
No matter how careful I am with the organizing of anything that comes off the engine, I still come up with something that I have no idea where it came from.
Can someone identify this? It was laying just outside the camshaft.
Can someone identify this? It was laying just outside the camshaft.
Hi DQG,
that's the points operating cam. What's it doing laying around loose?
It should be on the end of the advancer shaft.
that's the points operating cam. What's it doing laying around loose?
It should be on the end of the advancer shaft.
theDQG
XS650 Addict
Thanks.. it must have come off when I slid the shaft out.
I want to switch over from dual throttle carbs to single throttle carb so there's only one throttle cable- any potential issues with the conversion for the xs1b engine?
I assume carbs are largely compatible between the xs1, xs1b, xs2, and tx?
I want to switch over from dual throttle carbs to single throttle carb so there's only one throttle cable- any potential issues with the conversion for the xs1b engine?
I assume carbs are largely compatible between the xs1, xs1b, xs2, and tx?
Hi DQG,
as with any XS650, there's no room for a single carb between the engine and the frame tube so you'll need to use an asymmetric manifold or get extremely medieval on the frame.
Several aftermarket suppliers sell offset single carb manifolds but frame mods are strictly DIY.
Just about any carb the right size will work if it's jetted properly. We've seen roundslide, flatside and even AMAL carbs reported as being OK.
But if all you want is to be able to run a single throttle cable the simplest way is to swap in a pair of the later model XS650 carbs that are linked together and operated by a single cable.
theDQG
XS650 Addict
Sorry about the bad grammar, I meant to say carbs controlled by a single throttle cable.
So any later model carbs will work? Or only to a certain year?
Right then,
First, check that the distance between the carb inlets on your early motor is the same as on the later motors.
If so, any year XS650 linked carbs will fit.
Posts to this list say the optimum carbs are the last year of the BS38s.
I like my '84 Heritage Special's BS34s because they have a handlebar lever choke control.
Mind you, it's a Canadian model so it's carbs ain't as badly EPA'd as the US ones.
theDQG
XS650 Addict
Thanks Fred!
Some good news to report, the cam chain finally came off with just 5 minutes grinding, and tapping out of a pin.
Cylinder head is firmly stuck.. tried some light tapping- did not do any more for fear of damaging the fins like the PO did.
Was thinking of using a makeshift screw jack, and position it under the thick metal mass of the carb port as shown below and just see if I can create enough of a crack to get some shims in there.
Unless there is a better idea? I tried searching threads on this forum, but most had to do with stuck pistons.
Some good news to report, the cam chain finally came off with just 5 minutes grinding, and tapping out of a pin.
Cylinder head is firmly stuck.. tried some light tapping- did not do any more for fear of damaging the fins like the PO did.
Was thinking of using a makeshift screw jack, and position it under the thick metal mass of the carb port as shown below and just see if I can create enough of a crack to get some shims in there.
Unless there is a better idea? I tried searching threads on this forum, but most had to do with stuck pistons.
jussumguy
XS650 Addict
I was curious if a valve was stuck down and touching a piston and that was locking the motor up
theDQG
XS650 Addict
Well, that didn't take long.
I took another look at it and thought about using the soft end of a 2 x 4 and giving those carb ports a few light whacks on the underside, and guess what happened? Popped loose after only a few blows.
A look at the gnarly cylinders- the walls don't look too bad, no scratches. Of course I haven't checked the specs on anything, but I think there is reason to be optimistic.
Sprayed liberally with PB and going to let it sit overnight before whacking the pistons down. Both pistons stuck halfway, so finally I get a little luck there.
I took another look at it and thought about using the soft end of a 2 x 4 and giving those carb ports a few light whacks on the underside, and guess what happened? Popped loose after only a few blows.
A look at the gnarly cylinders- the walls don't look too bad, no scratches. Of course I haven't checked the specs on anything, but I think there is reason to be optimistic.
Sprayed liberally with PB and going to let it sit overnight before whacking the pistons down. Both pistons stuck halfway, so finally I get a little luck there.
Now we know why the camchain gave you such a hard time.
You didn't remove the camchain tensioner...
You didn't remove the camchain tensioner...
Might as well get the jugs loose and supported up on wood blocks. Lets you keep track of crank rotation and that the pistons are coming out together.
