tadd442
dude.....
Put a miniramp under and around the outside of the motorcycle workspace...
I 2nd that idea!!!
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Building a garage/workshop. What would YOU do?
- Thread starter BigBoreSwede
- Start date
I 2nd that idea!!!
1974jh5
Curmudgeon.
mvonwahlde
XS650 Enthusiast
Folgers is the best muffler for a dropped Civic.
Maddog Marty
Alotta Patina
I covered my workbench in galvanized sheet metal, bent to fit over the lip in front and then go back and go up five or six inches then back to the wall so it is one seamless piece. One of the absolute best things I ever did in my workshop/garage.
I dont know if i would want to have a steel work bench in Sweden. A good thick wooden bench
tadd442
dude.....
My friend who does alot of carb work laid a few sheets of brightly colored construction paper on the top of his wooden bench, then poured shellack over the surface to seal it off. He claims to have never lost a single piece from a carb rebuild since.
Good luck with the new garage space Bigbore. I have some lighting input for you.
There are several different types of lighting that you can use to light a shop/work space. they are
1. incandescent
2. fluorescent
3. High pressure sodium
4. Metal halide
5. CFL
6. oil lamp (jk)
7. mercury vapor (crap)
They all have advantages and disadvantages. First off, Incandescent, mercury vapor,and CFL's are shit for lighting a big space. The thing that you need to know is that High pressure sodium is not color corrective and can cause problems with different color of wires and when trying to color match some paint. I would stay away from this type of lighting. Next up is the Metal-halide style of HID high-bay and low-bay lights. They are great at color stability and provide a good even 4000 Kelvin to 4500 kelvin coloring. The fluorescent is what I'm running in my shop. I have a special F96T8HO4200K lamp that has a cold start ballast in them. I'm in Chicago and i have no heat in the shop but I have no trouble getting my Overhead florescent to ignite. Also i read in one of the reply's to individual switch each light fixture, and i totally agree. I have 4 lights and 4 switches.
Also remember that your general illumination will be just that, general. You will always find a need for a drop light no matter what so make sure you have an overhead provision for the retractable overhead shop light.
Thats my take on things. good luck.
There are several different types of lighting that you can use to light a shop/work space. they are
1. incandescent
2. fluorescent
3. High pressure sodium
4. Metal halide
5. CFL
6. oil lamp (jk)
7. mercury vapor (crap)
They all have advantages and disadvantages. First off, Incandescent, mercury vapor,and CFL's are shit for lighting a big space. The thing that you need to know is that High pressure sodium is not color corrective and can cause problems with different color of wires and when trying to color match some paint. I would stay away from this type of lighting. Next up is the Metal-halide style of HID high-bay and low-bay lights. They are great at color stability and provide a good even 4000 Kelvin to 4500 kelvin coloring. The fluorescent is what I'm running in my shop. I have a special F96T8HO4200K lamp that has a cold start ballast in them. I'm in Chicago and i have no heat in the shop but I have no trouble getting my Overhead florescent to ignite. Also i read in one of the reply's to individual switch each light fixture, and i totally agree. I have 4 lights and 4 switches.
Also remember that your general illumination will be just that, general. You will always find a need for a drop light no matter what so make sure you have an overhead provision for the retractable overhead shop light.
Thats my take on things. good luck.
Grumpy
Grumpy
A good Air Compressor (for Air Tools)Ring Main the Workshop with Air Connections every 3 ft. apart! Lots of Power outlets !The more the better, & I have found a Mono-Rail above the working area with Chain blocks & Girder trolley's very helpful......
Re: Air Compressors.
Direct drive (aka oilless) compressors are very noisy. I shopped around and found a used 12cfm 2 stage belt drive unit that is whisper-quiet relative to that raggedy Ingersoll-Rand direct drive. WELL worth the investment.
Copper or iron pipe plumbing with drain legs at each drop and a shutoff near the compressor are also a good idea.
If you plan to use the system for painting, do NOT put an oiler in the line, and DO use a filter/dryer system of some sort.
Direct drive (aka oilless) compressors are very noisy. I shopped around and found a used 12cfm 2 stage belt drive unit that is whisper-quiet relative to that raggedy Ingersoll-Rand direct drive. WELL worth the investment.
Copper or iron pipe plumbing with drain legs at each drop and a shutoff near the compressor are also a good idea.
If you plan to use the system for painting, do NOT put an oiler in the line, and DO use a filter/dryer system of some sort.
