Dead rotor - best options to fix / replace?

If you decide to replace any bearings in the transmission, you need to pull the engine, remove side covers, flip upside down remove lower case. This gives you access to the tranny without tearing apart the top.
Leo
 
Used my TDC finder today to check alignment of the witness mark on my Racetech rotor with TDC mark on the timing tab on my '82. I had to adjust the timing tab 4 degrees CW to align them at true TDC - right at the end of the slot on the timing tab. I had never checked this alignment with the original OEM rotor that went bad last year, so I can't conclude that the mark on the Racetech rotor was off from where it should be - just shows the importance of doing this check when replacing a rotor. After making the 4 degree adjustment, idle timing fell right in the 10-15 BTDC degree "box" on the tab, and full advance at 3000 rpm was right on 40 degrees BTDC. :thumbsup:
 
2M,
Re: stator run-out. 650 Central describes seeing crudely made, really poor, stators. Could excessive run-out contribute to the vibration of the Xs motor? Could a stator be made to counter that vibration, or is the mass of it insufficient, compared the crank?
 
Stators are, well, stationary.. Most of the rotor runout is pretty easily removed by clean up of poor machining, over spray?. I suspect once it's running "eye ball" true any unbalance will be insignificant.
 
Last edited:
Hiyall, just a quick follow up years later. The racetech rotor is still working fine as far as I can tell, have had no further charging issues (...although I must point out, my XS does have an easy life these days!).

The funny noise is something to do with the drivetrain and I really suspect the rear (disc) brake. It started doing it again after I'd adjusted the chain tension, and due to the way the holes for the locking nut on the main rear wheel shaft line up with the castellations on the nut, I'd done up this main wheel nut very tight - tighter than I wanted to. I just slackened everything back off, cleaned the disc a bit in case there was a bit of grit causing the problem, readjusted the chain tension, and put everything back together but didn't tighten the main nut as brutally as the time before (...offset by one castellation of course, so the splitpin could still be fitted). The wheel nut was now a little looser than I'd like; but hey, life isn't perfect! The noise seems to have gone away again OK. Don't know if it was just grit in the disc, (...did not observe any, but my eyesight ain't what it was, even with glasses ... must be the engine vibes ;o) or if the overtightening of the rear axle was involved.

59Tebo, I doubt the rotor weight would be sufficient to affect vibes much; at least, unless its balance was really drastically out of kilter.
 
The rotors I've seen have some small drilled holes from balancing work. If a rotor is rebuilt, especially if reassembled with unmatched and/or unaligned parts, all bets are off...
 
Back
Top