Early model 70-71 instrument rebuild/rejuvenation

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Chapter 6c Reassembly - Method 2

Pic #1
Apply a drop of glue to the base of all three light tubes.
Fit the illumination hood, hood facing inward.
Fit the indicator tubes, rubber light seals offset inwards.

Pic #2
Check that the indicator lenses are glued and in proper position on the preattached dial face.

Pic #3
Fit the movement frame with preattached dial face to the lower shell.
Ensure the light tube seals and dial face are aligned,
Attach the movement to the instrument base using the two 5mm screws.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Chapter 6d Reassembly - Final

Pic #1
Gently attach the pointer lightly, aligning the pointer slightly higher than the zero mark. Slowly/gently nudge the pointer to the 'zero' position, ensuring that the movement's aluminum ring support arm is against the zero stop. Firmly press the center of the pointer onto the pointer shaft.

Jostle/twist/rotate the movement assembly so the pointer moves/jumps a bit off the stop, and watch to ensure that the pointer gently returns to the 'zero' position.

Pic #2
Dry fit test the upper and lower shells, observe the overlap of the upper shell on the lower shell, and how to align them according to the ignition switch clearance notch.

I've had great success using 'gorilla grip' super glue. The glued instrument tolerates the harsh/hot/vibrating environment, remains moisture resistant, and can be 'cracked' open later if necessary.

Place the upper shell on a padded surface, upside-down. Run a thin bead/line of super-glue around the center of the cut zone. Carefully lower the bottom shell and movement assembly onto the upper shell, maintaining alignment. Press down lightly for about a minute, leave overnight for full cure.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Chapter 6d Reassembly - Final, Finally

Mount the instrument to the bike, attach cable and lighting.

Test drive, check for stability, sticking, bouncing, idle rpm display, vibration tolerance, and full return to zero. Check lighting, and both indicators.

Any problems now, and/or in the future, I'm confident you can handle it. Enjoy

 

[tadd442]

Tadd just reported this about the odo knob and shaft.

Re: Speedo trip meter shaft. 70-73
It does indeed unscrew. The threads are backwards.(Lefty Tighty, Righty Loosey) I removed the E-clip inside the body that secures the bushing to free up the trip meter assembly, held the far end of the shaft that spins within the body being cautious not to let it spin, and backed the shaft off.
Done.

I need to clarify that my findings were on an XS2 Speedometer. (1972) They may in fact not be able to be removed on earlier gages.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Thanx for the update, Tadd442. The `70-`71 speedo knobs are also held with a screw.

From post #22: http://www.xs650.com/forum/showpost.php?p=316465&postcount=22

 

[tadd442]

Got it! The knob is removable on the 70 & 71's, but the shaft remains with the guts.

 

[vr3506]

For opening an XS1 tacho or speedo, carefully heat the part around the glasspart, this has a thread! In this way you can open the XS1 clocks without damaging the housing

The shaft, both XS1 and 2 have a LH thread M3

Nice article about overhauling/repairing!

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

For opening an XS1 tacho or speedo, carefully heat the part around the glasspart, this has a thread! In this way you can open the XS1 clocks without damaging the housing

The shaft, both XS1 and 2 have a LH thread M3

Nice article about overhauling/repairing!

Thanx, vr3506!

Will start searching for that thread. Do you recall the timeframe of its posting?

If you can find it, please post a link to it...

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Here's all the links I could find referencing instrument repair:
All these involve prying retention crimp rings.
Couldn't find anything on using heat on XS1/XS1B gauges.

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=410
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=817
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2080
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3267
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6884

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15359
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28055
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29104
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33423

http://xs650temp.proboards.com/thread/6285?page=1
http://www.xs650chopper.com/2009/11/how-to-refresh-an-old-speedometer/
http://www.joellevinecompany.com/default.asp
http://www.salocal.com/sohc/tech/speedo/spedo1.htm
http://www.motorcycleclassics.com/black-side-down-replacing-Honda-CB-face-plates.aspx

650Skull's Model ID master reference, pg 40: http://www.xs650.com/forum/showpost.php?p=316797&postcount=40
650Skull's Gauge repair album: http://www.xs650.com/media/albums/1728/

PamcoPete's heat-shrink-tubing source: http://www.buyheatshrink.com

 

[gggGary]

I'm all ears on a thread thread LOL ...........

 

[2phased]

Hi i know this an old thread but how are people opening the XS2 , TX speedo /Tachometer
I've found there metal not plastic ?

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

... how are people opening the XS2 , TX speedo /Tachometer
I've found there metal not plastic ?

Hi, 2phased. I've cracked open a couple of those XS2/TX instruments. They are indeed metal housings, requiring slow/careful prying of the crimp ring around the bezel, from the hidden backside. Follow the previously posted links in post #49 for tricks/procedures on this. Good luck!

 

[MaxPete]

This is awesome - what a he!! of a good write up on a delicate but important task. Thanks 2M!

I note that this applies to early gauges (XS1s etc.) that had sealed plastic bodied gauges (and had to be cut open with a saw). Can you point me to a write-up on the later gauges that had metal crimped gauge bodies?

 

[MaxPete]

ahhh - should have read the whole thing more carefully. The internal stuff is the same regardless of the body style of the gauge - the trick for new bikes is getting the metal crimp ring apart without destroying it....hmmmmm.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Hey, Pete. Thanx.
The crimped ring tricks are in some of those links in post #49...

 

[MaxPete]

Ahhh - thx!

 

[xjwmx]

When the commenter said "heat around the glass part. This has a thread!" I thought he meant some part like the bezel was threaded on and needed a bit of heat to loosen some glue, or something like that...

A "good enough" way of getting the pointer back in the right place might be to mark the position of the pointer with the stop finger removed.

 

[Old RT3 Guy]

Talk about casting pearls amongst the Swine! Man what a wealth of knowledge, time, and expertise just shared openly with anyone willing to take the time to read and comprehend. I've paid big $$$ for college coursework and received far less wisdom and useful information in return. Many thanks 2M. Clicking the "like" icon seems so inadequate for all that you have afforded us in this thread. Thank you again.

 

[MaxPete]

Indeed....I'd serve him (and many others in this forum) a BEvERage on my backyard deck anytime.

Pete

PS - maybe just not right now - its 28 deg.F / -3C out there at present. I guess, the beer would be cold anyway....

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Thanx, Old RT3 Guy and MaxPete. This thread was done, what, about 3 years ago? I don't think I have it in me to do another exhaustive thread like this anymore. Glad you enjoyed it.

... anyone willing to take the time to read and comprehend...

And, that's the key. We still have to do it old school.

Can't seem to master this "mind meld" thing.

Indeed....I'd serve him (and many others in this forum) a BEvERage on my backyard deck anytime...

Thanx, Pete. Back atcha .