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I finally pulled the trigger, it’s not perfect but it’s mine. How’d I do?
- Thread starter Srawl
- Start date
Your bike in my area would be worth a solid $1000-1200. This is my area NW Ohio. I've bought a really nice 79' with 4K for $600 (no title) I bought 10 of them in various states for $3500. Two were all stock, good shape with 20-25k miles on them. Flat track racing guy sold his collection. These are my hobby. A hobby for entrainment not financial return. Haha My advice: get a manual, go thru it, ride it. You can buy another in way worse shape to cut up and get your learning curb out of the way. I've found with vintage motorcycles, have more than one. Shit always happens so switch tags and go. Haha Most importantly, HAVE FUN.
Srawl
XS650 Enthusiast
I’ve ordered the Haynes and Clymer manuals. The factory manual seems to come highly recommend if they can be found at a fair price, what is considered a fair price?
Would I be better off just printing one offline?
I found this one for $38.
While doing some research, I believe the service manual is the one that’s recommended, not the owners, is that correct?
And if so, I would get the XS650B manual and the XS650D supplement?
Would I be better off just printing one offline?
I found this one for $38.
While doing some research, I believe the service manual is the one that’s recommended, not the owners, is that correct?
And if so, I would get the XS650B manual and the XS650D supplement?
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An owners manual is interesting, but you definitely need the service manual.
Aside from any other differences, the D and later models used quite different forks from the 1976 C and earlier models.
They have 35 mm dia. tubes (34 mm dia. on the earlier bikes) and the internals are different so you need a different tool to disassemble them. .
They have 35 mm dia. tubes (34 mm dia. on the earlier bikes) and the internals are different so you need a different tool to disassemble them. .
Haha, Jim as I was typing you posted. Here's another downloadable manual for 78E, and later models. The 78E manual will cover everything for your 77D.
Great minds and all that....... 'a' Robin...... 
77 first year 35mm forks have different internals than all the later years. 5twins details it all, somewhere in here.....
Srawl
XS650 Enthusiast
Thank you I will download that today.
I’ve been doing some researching along with searching through several threads on here but I haven’t been able to find a checklist of routine things like places to lube and other random small things to check could someone point me in the direction of that?
I did find a couple of other good checklists though.
I’ve been doing some researching along with searching through several threads on here but I haven’t been able to find a checklist of routine things like places to lube and other random small things to check could someone point me in the direction of that?
I did find a couple of other good checklists though.
It's best to collect up as many manuals as you can, from different sources/authors and other years near yours. Then you can cross reference between them because some do contain a few errors. Yamaha didn't issue a full manual every year, only about every 3 to 5 years. In between model years just got a small supplement detailing any changes to that year. But sometimes you won't find all the changes if some occurred the year before, they would be in that previous year supplement. Perfect example in your case is the carbs. Your carb set was used on the '76-'77 models. There's no mention of it in the '77 supplement, details are in the '76 supplement.
So yes, you will want to download the full '75 service manual along with the '77D supplement. I would also download the '76C supplement as well ..... and the '78E manual Robin mentioned. Like I said, the more info you have, the better. There are also parts manual downloads available which can be very helpful. The exploded parts diagrams are a great aid when working on the bike.
As far as places to lube, I'd say anything that moves, lol. Off the top of my head, some of the important ones are the throttle cable, clutch cable, clutch & brake lever pivots, and the worm gear. Others include the footpeg, side, and centerstand pivots. Many of these basic, common sense lube points get sadly neglected on many bikes. I've found more than one worn out clutch lever, the pivot hole worn oval, because it was run dry all the time.
So yes, you will want to download the full '75 service manual along with the '77D supplement. I would also download the '76C supplement as well ..... and the '78E manual Robin mentioned. Like I said, the more info you have, the better. There are also parts manual downloads available which can be very helpful. The exploded parts diagrams are a great aid when working on the bike.
As far as places to lube, I'd say anything that moves, lol. Off the top of my head, some of the important ones are the throttle cable, clutch cable, clutch & brake lever pivots, and the worm gear. Others include the footpeg, side, and centerstand pivots. Many of these basic, common sense lube points get sadly neglected on many bikes. I've found more than one worn out clutch lever, the pivot hole worn oval, because it was run dry all the time.
Yes, I would give the bike a complete tune-up and yes, it should be done in a certain order. The cam is connected to the crank with a chain. The cam operates the ignition points and the valves so you want it's chain adjusted properly first. So, here's the tune-up order .....
1. Cam Chain
2. Valves
3. Ignition points and timing
4. Carb adjustments
If you don't know their history (how long they've been in there), I would recommend changing the points. They are a wear item and besides the faces wearing, the spring steel straps that snap them shut get weak with age and miles. Eventually they will start malfunctioning even if they still may look to be in good shape. Get a new condenser pack as well but you may not need to change that. This will be a spare in that case. Inspect the points faces. If they're badly pitted, change the condensers. If they just show normal wear (grainy, sand paper-like appearance on the faces), don't change them. Condensers have a rating matched to the ignition system but when manufactured, not all meet that spec exactly. If too far off, that's what causes excess points pitting. So, it's possible to get brand new ones that aren't very well matched to the system. That's why, if you have good functioning, well matched ones now, keep using them. Just get a back-up set because they do occasionally go bad or fail.
1. Cam Chain
2. Valves
3. Ignition points and timing
4. Carb adjustments
If you don't know their history (how long they've been in there), I would recommend changing the points. They are a wear item and besides the faces wearing, the spring steel straps that snap them shut get weak with age and miles. Eventually they will start malfunctioning even if they still may look to be in good shape. Get a new condenser pack as well but you may not need to change that. This will be a spare in that case. Inspect the points faces. If they're badly pitted, change the condensers. If they just show normal wear (grainy, sand paper-like appearance on the faces), don't change them. Condensers have a rating matched to the ignition system but when manufactured, not all meet that spec exactly. If too far off, that's what causes excess points pitting. So, it's possible to get brand new ones that aren't very well matched to the system. That's why, if you have good functioning, well matched ones now, keep using them. Just get a back-up set because they do occasionally go bad or fail.
Here's some service bulletins:
http://www.xs650.com/threads/yamaha-1974-1979-xs650-technical-bulletins.36766/
http://www.xs650.com/threads/yamaha-1974-1979-xs650-technical-bulletins.36766/
Years (millions!) ago, a friend had a Triumph Trophy 250 (single cylinder four-stroke, but it looked like it was in a Bonneville frame). He spent a fortune (in '70s dollars) replacing the breaker point, because it kept breaking at the spring. OEM Triumph parts were expensive and not always available. By chance he discovered the points for a Chevy 250cu. I-6 (available everywhere, for cheap) fit perfectly! He would wear them out, but they never broke. I wonder if there are other automotive points that fit the Xs650, that may also be more durable?
Im kinda like: If it ain't broke, don't fix it. BUT... ( always a butt and they all stink) haha Inspect: Brakes!, tires, chain, clutch cable and action, throttle cable and action. At least lube cables right out of the gate. I don't think the older ones were stainless. Gotta be safe! It's old so I'd suggest going thru everything but not at once. Fork seals and oil should be changed. When you do this, I switch out the Phillip head drain screws for Allen socket heads. Tires, might as well change the bearings. Grease the swing arm. Charging systems seem to have issues come up too. Don't always blame missing on the carbs. One thing at a time. Stay on this forum and you'll be fine. There is a manual with misprints. I believe it's the Haynes. Clutch assembly print if I recall. These guys walked me through and I got it after several days of profanity. Don't always trust what you find taking these old bikes apart. Likely there's been a lot of fingers inside. Do research before you start a section of your project. Have the parts on hand while you do it. Me personally don't like to walk away and leave things apart for weeks. I forget. Torque wrench, get one.
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Everything JRay said but with one addition:
The best brand are “Vessel” - which are readily available on eBay for around $30-60. In addition to a set consisting of a #1, #2 and #3 conventional drivers, be sure to get the silver handled “IMPACTA” JIS #3 which is invaluable for getting those crusty clutch screws out.
If you use Philips screwdrivers on your motorcycle - the screw heads will eventually be stripped (if they aren’t already).
Here endeth the sermon.
Pete
- those “Philips” screws on the bike are NOT (repeat NOT) Philips screws.
The best brand are “Vessel” - which are readily available on eBay for around $30-60. In addition to a set consisting of a #1, #2 and #3 conventional drivers, be sure to get the silver handled “IMPACTA” JIS #3 which is invaluable for getting those crusty clutch screws out.
If you use Philips screwdrivers on your motorcycle - the screw heads will eventually be stripped (if they aren’t already).
Here endeth the sermon.
Pete
Petes right and a very important piece of info. JIS (Phillip looking screws) are all over. My clutch basket retaining screws have been mangled up on several bikes. I bought an impacting screwdriver at Harbor Freight that had the right size JIS to remove these clutch screws. When I replaced the clutch I used LC Fabrication set. Aluminum spacer bushing and Allen socket head bolts, I've seen Danial at Pandemonium, he even replaces the carb JIS with Allen screws.
Absolute ditto, 5twins.
Also recommend the latest Hans Pahl book:
(Starting at post #10)
http://www.xs650.com/threads/xs650-...ugh-translation-to-english.19413/#post-501053
And, download his engine cutaway pics.
(Post #26)
http://www.xs650.com/threads/xs650-...anslation-to-english.19413/page-2#post-502905
Another engine cutaway thread:
http://www.xs650.com/threads/xs650-motor-cut-away.50217/
